My Shoes for Winter in Hong Kong: Please help me.

[MrLau8999]

Hi,

Age 17, I live in Hong Kong. I know generally what I want to start my 'proper' shoe wardrobe.
I will get two bespoke commissions from Gordon Yao; looking at the Fox Flannel London Lounge collection (I love chalk stripes).
Wide peak lapels, three pieces, all double breasted (my entire RTW wardrobe is single breasted, 1960s cut & style; I want some 1920s-30s elegance!). Just giving you an idea of my new additions (of which I will sketch by hand for Gordon Yao to take reference from).

Currently: I own a mint-condition Johns & Pegg vintage purchase shawl collar 100% silk velvet (made circa 1950s-60s) brown satin-faced single-breasted dinner jacket (bespoke commission for an old client), along with a dinner jacket & trousers black tie ensemble with matching overcoat and vest. This is my evening selection. My other suits are various flannels, melange, & tweed. All made in the U.S.A., with cotton linings (quite rare in this day and age).

Therefore, I opt to choose Edward Green, for their heritage, construction, and good reviews all-round on the forum.

I earlier stated my evening clothes. I am looking at the Black Edinburgh Patent Leather Pump, with the grosgrain ribbon matching my dinner jacket, overcoat, and trousers. Please state your opinion.

For my flannels and more casual sports jackets, I opt for the Dark Oak Lichfield. It's subtle punching and chiseled 890 last gives it a very unique elegance. Again, please state your opinion.

I understand the need to rotate shoes, and I want at least 3 pairs in regular rotation, with the exception of the black-tie pumps.

Here is where I am slightly torn between my options. I could opt for a Black Calf Chelsea cap-toe oxford in 202 last (I love rounded toes more than most elongated shoes, because of proportion), Belgravia Tassel Loafer in Dark Oak or Mink Suede (casual nonchalence), or something else...I don't know.

Please grant me your honest opinion;..Hong Kong is still really hot, and so I only have 3-4 months (Mid-November to February) to dress well.

If Edward Green holds an online sale, it would be better for my budget. Anyone that tips me off as to when, thank you in kind.

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The rest of my budget will be allocated to ties, shirts, a cardigan or two, socks, gloves, detachable collars (a la Hercule Poirot), and an umbrella.

Thank you all!

 

[jonng85]

Borghiniclassic.com has a site wide sale ending today with 15% off code 16hallo. If they have your size, is a good price.

 

[chobochobo]

@Jonng85, that reply is so irrelevant that I almost marked it as spam. I probably will later on.

To the OP, what do you want to do with these clothes? Work, dress up, costume? Perhaps you already have a ton of staple suits but I wouldn't put flannel top of list for my first suits. Same goes with the shoes.

 

[jonng85]

my bad. I assumed he was looking to buy EG chelseas on sale.

 

[chobochobo]

There are no EG chelseas on sale.

 

[MrLau8999]

Mostly normal day-to-day wear.

I would like your honest opinion on whether I should adopt lighter colors and more casual styles, or should I have many variations of a conservative look. Or phrased differently, should I have one conservative look, one casual look, or a variety of conservative looks, each different?

Personally I think that many variations on a conservative "feel" would be better, as sometimes I would not want to stand out too much so as to appear ostentatious, but also I would not want to look sloppy.

e.g. should I adopt lighter colors as opposed to Dark Oak or Black, or does a certain style appear too conservative or too generic...by day-to-day wear I mean just normal wear. No country boots, Hong Kong city area only: not New Territories.

Say, you could give me an opinion on how flannels match certain leather finishes/types, or how an Ivy League look contrasts with a traditional English look, or how Italians would choose their shoes to match their slim suiting, etc...

Just throw all your knowledge and know-how at me!

 

[chobochobo]

No offence, but some context might help. Most 17 year old HK males are wearing BAPE and throwing bricks at policemen.

 

[MrLau8999]

Let's just say I'm special and I'm not of the majority.

My mother set a good example for me from birth; and I've been dressing this way ever since.
I reject trends and follow my mother's example. I don't want to appear slack, sloppy, careless, or promiscuous.
I want to gain the trust of others, and anyway my personality is quite different from the majority.

No offence, but please do as I say and throw all your knowledge at me!

What difference does it make what age someone is?
One can learn about these things and develop refined habits at a young age, no?

Thanks for your consideration.

 

[kwoknero]

Flannel is a bad idea for your first suit, especially Fox London Lounge Collection. I believe the weight of the fabric of the collection is about 18oz, which is really heavy for the Hong Kong weather. I recommend some fabric that is 8-11oz for Hong Kong weather, if you want to wear it constantly, maybe something like Fresco, or Wool/Mohair combination for durability and open weave.

As for color wise for your suit, you can't go wrong with navy or charcoal.

 

[MrLau8999]

I understand.

I was thinking heavier cloth, coupled with darker tone shoes, and unlined jackets.

Completely unlined with little padding would both preserve the drape qualities of heavier cloth, as well as feel fine in the winter.

I never wear my suits in summer, spring, or early autumn in Hong Kong.

Would it come off as too ostentatious if I had too much of a variation in my footwear look; for instance a dark pair and a light pair, as opposed to two or three dark colored pairs?

 

[kwoknero]

If you only wear suit in Winter Time in Hong Kong, then getting lightweight/mid-weight Flannel (10-14oz) should be fine. Little padding might work well on you, it doesn't work well on me, so you need to work with Gordon Yao on that part.

I live in the East Coast of USA, I prefer 15-18oz of jacket during the winter time, other than that, it is too heavy for other seasons.

As for shoes color, it depend on your taste. My personal preference is that it match well with my pant's color, different shade of dark brown shoe tend to work well. I don't know what kind of wardrobe you have already. I have 10 - 15 pairs of dress shoes and I have 5-7 different of dark brown for rotation.

Again, you can start with 1 pair of Brown and 1 pair of Black and build upon it. No need to rush it, you are only 17, your taste will change as you get older. I certain did with my wardrobe due to age, work and life experience.

 

[MrLau8999]

Wow!

10-15 pairs! I only have one pair aside from school shoes! Dark brown suede Church's brogue.

About my wardrobe, I have one navy with red/grey stripe flannel suit, one chalk stripe navy cashmere/wool/mink flannel suit, one dark brown melange sport coat, one black/grey with pink stripe tweed sport coat, and a trench coat.

My evening wear consists of one wool/mohair black barathea black-tie dinner jacket and trousers with grosgrain lapel facing, and a matching black overcoat with the same grosgrain facings (this coat is not barathea though; it is Dupioni silk in black). I also own a vintage-purchase silk velvet shawl lapel dinner jacket in coffee brown (made circa 1950s-60s for a bespoke Johns & Pegg client).

So, I definitely need a pair of pumps or evening shoes.

For regular rotation, probably three pairs of calf shoes; but please advise me as to shoe lasts and how they go with certain suit styles.

 

[kwoknero]

Without looking at the pictures of your suit/sportscoat, it is hard for me to recommend anything regards to shoe.

For your black dinner jacket, it is safe to say to get yourself a pair of black shoe. Again, a simple black/brown oxford should allow you to wear with any suits/sportscoat/trousers combination formally or casually or work related.

As for shoe last/brand, it is a very personal choice. Since you are in Hong Kong, you can visit various shops that sell high quality dress shoes.

 

[MrLau8999]

Hong kong does have a lot of shops, but I never buy from shops directly because there is often a mark-up that is higher than online prices; this includes the wage of salespeople and rent of the shop.

Is there a correspondence between the texture of fabric and shoe styles?

I hear many people say suede goes well with flannel; because textures are similar.

 

[kwoknero]

As you venture out for more different brand/size of shoes, you do need to visit shop for fitting purposes, examine the overall style. You can only see so much from a photo online.
I got lucky because I can get Free Shipping and Free Return, other time, not so much.

People still need to make a living in Hong Kong, the rent is too high.

If you purchase online, return the items will always be a chore.

Again, it doesn't hurt to go to shop and look and examine in your head with your wardrobe, do you know any shops in Hong Kong?

Suede is nice, but sometime can be a bit casual.