My new MTM suit supply blazer what to pair with

[bello1308]

Hi Chaps,
Thought I’d share with you my custom suit supply blazer I had made,

it took 7 weeks, went for a nice navy blue 130 fabric fully canvassed (2 layers) half lined Courtesy of ariston fabric (Napoli). Went with the classic gold buttons and peak lapel.

must say I’m happy and have not worn it yet would like your recommendations on what to pair this with for myXmas dinner party next month

I’m thinking crisp white twill or royal Oxford shirt, light grey wool/silk trousers, dark brown leather loafers and maybe a white or a colourful puff pocket square?

let me know your thoughts

Saluti

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I think that’s fine. The royal oxford cloth shirt, in my opinion, would be a better option.

A navy blazer is about as versatile a piece of clothing a man could have. You could pair it with flannel pants or cords.

 

[dieworkwear]

The outfit you described sounds fine.

I personally like a plain white twill better than royal oxford. Royal Oxford has a sheen to it that will look odd with a sport coat.

In the future, if you commission a custom sport coat, get flapped pockets instead of patched if you're doing peak lapels. Peak lapels are a more formal iteration of a lapel style; patched pockets are casual. The two clash when on the same jacket.

 

[bello1308]

The outfit you described sounds fine.

I personally like a plain white twill better than royal oxford. Royal Oxford has a sheen to it that will look odd with a sport coat.

In the future, if you commission a custom sport coat, get flapped pockets instead of patched if you're doing peak lapels. Peak lapels are a more formal iteration of a lapel style; patched pockets are casual. The two clash when on the same jacket.

Hi, yes I’m considering twill but don’t want it to be dull looking, what about pinpoint Oxford?

also in response to saying I should opt for a flap pocket next time, my understand is if your wearing a odd jacket/sports coat it’s always better to go with patch pockets regardless of the lapels

i was at The Tom Ford boutique in the summer ( please see pictures) and his classic jacket I was trying on was peak lapels and patch pocket.

 

[dieworkwear]

Hi, yes I’m considering twill but don’t want it to be dull looking, what about pinpoint Oxford?

also in response to saying I should opt for a flap pocket next time, my understand is if your wearing a odd jacket/sports coat it’s always better to go with patch pockets regardless of the lapels

i was at The Tom Ford boutique in the summer ( please see pictures) and his classic jacket I was trying on was peak lapels and patch pocket.

Pinpoint oxford is fine with a sport coat.

Regarding pockets: there's sometimes disagreement on this board on how much value someone should place on tradition. Even if someone says they like classic men's style, they may prefer a much more modern iteration of it. Others prefer something more rooted in tradition.

The easiest way to think about these things is to remember that evening wear (i.e. black tie) remains at the top of the formality pyramid (technically, white tie is more formal, but in today’s age, it’s all but disappeared). The classic dinner jacket is a single-breasted coat with peak lapels, jetted pockets, and a single button for fastening. Just under this in terms of formality is the double-breasted dinner jacket with the same configuration, or a single-breasted coat with a shawl collar. (The differences here are subtle and nuanced, but essentially – a full dress vest and stiff collar will go with a single-breasted, peak lapel jacket in a way that they won’t with other styles).

The closer your jacket approaches traditional evening wear, the more formal it’s considered. So notched lapels will look less formal than peaks or shawls. Two buttons are less formal than one (and three less formal than two). Welted flapped pockets are less formal than jetted. Patch pockets are less formal still. And flapped patch least formal of all.

Italians sometimes add their own casual details – prominent pick stitching along the lapels and pockets; shirring at the sleevehead (aka spalla camicia); and fewer buttons at the sleeves (four is traditional, but sometimes three, two, or even one button is used to make a sport coat look more casual).

There are some people on this board who take more direction from modern designers and current trends, while others place more value on the past. I personally wouldn't take my dress direction from what designers are doing on the market today. To me, patched pockets with a peak lapel looks incongruent. Will most people notice? Probably not, as most people are unfamiliar with tailored clothing. But if you like a certain section of classic men's style, you may find that these details matter to you, and in the future, this sort of "incongruity" will bother you.

Sport coats can come with patched, flapped, patched flapped, and sometimes even jetted pockets. It's more about how this specific detail goes with the cloth and the other details on the coat. No easy way to characterize it as just "sport coats are better with patched."

Blazer with jetted pockets

Tweed with flapped patch

Tweeds with flaps

 

[bello1308]

Good pointers and examples cheers

 

[maxalex]

Pinpoint oxford is fine with a sport coat.

Regarding pockets: there's sometimes disagreement on this board on how much value someone should place on tradition. Even if someone says they like classic men's style, they may prefer a much more modern iteration of it. Others prefer something more rooted in tradition.

The easiest way to think about these things is to remember that evening wear (i.e. black tie) remains at the top of the formality pyramid (technically, white tie is more formal, but in today’s age, it’s all but disappeared). The classic dinner jacket is a single-breasted coat with peak lapels, jetted pockets, and a single button for fastening. Just under this in terms of formality is the double-breasted dinner jacket with the same configuration, or a single-breasted coat with a shawl collar. (The differences here are subtle and nuanced, but essentially – a full dress vest and stiff collar will go with a single-breasted, peak lapel jacket in a way that they won’t with other styles).

The closer your jacket approaches traditional evening wear, the more formal it’s considered. So notched lapels will look less formal than peaks or shawls. Two buttons are less formal than one (and three less formal than two). Welted flapped pockets are less formal than jetted. Patch pockets are less formal still. And flapped patch least formal of all.

Italians sometimes add their own casual details – prominent pick stitching along the lapels and pockets; shirring at the sleevehead (aka spalla camicia); and fewer buttons at the sleeves (four is traditional, but sometimes three, two, or even one button is used to make a sport coat look more casual).

There are some people on this board who take more direction from modern designers and current trends, while others place more value on the past. I personally wouldn't take my dress direction from what designers are doing on the market today. To me, patched pockets with a peak lapel looks incongruent. Will most people notice? Probably not, as most people are unfamiliar with tailored clothing. But if you like a certain section of classic men's style, you may find that these details matter to you, and in the future, this sort of "incongruity" will bother you.

Sport coats can come with patched, flapped, patched flapped, and sometimes even jetted pockets. It's more about how this specific detail goes with the cloth and the other details on the coat. No easy way to characterize it as just "sport coats are better with patched."

Blazer with jetted pockets


View attachment 1697782



Tweed with flapped patch


View attachment 1697783 View attachment 1697784


Tweeds with flaps


View attachment 1697787 View attachment 1697786 View attachment 1697789 View attachment 1697791

I’m currently having a navy blazer made by a tailor in Sicily with patch pockets—and it’s a doubled breasted peak lapel. (I’m not personally a fan of SB peak lapels.)

But this tailor specializes in the soft Neapolitan look, with shirt shoulders and very little structure. I quite deliberately want it to look smart but casual, as well as not be too hot to wear in Italian summers. I also chose a lightweight (185g) birdseye Italian wool that has a bit more texture and “life” than a standard worsted.

I guess my point is the choice of pockets must be considered together with the overall cut of the jacket, not solely based on the lapel style.

 

[taxgenius]

I’m currently having a navy blazer made by a tailor in Sicily with patch pockets—and it’s a doubled breasted peak lapel. (I’m not personally a fan of SB peak lapels.)

But this tailor specializes in the soft Neapolitan look, with shirt shoulders and very little structure. I quite deliberately want it to look smart but casual, as well as not be too hot to wear in Italian summers. I also chose a lightweight (185g) birdseye Italian wool that has a bit more texture and “life” than a standard worsted.

I guess my point is the choice of pockets must be considered together with the overall cut of the jacket, not solely based on the lapel style.

Do you have any pics? I’m thinking of commissioning the exact same thing

 

[maxalex]

Do you have any pics? I’m thinking of commissioning the exact same thing

I’ll try to take some although I ended up not being happy with the cut he made. Here’s a good example: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2015/05/hopsack-blazer-the-perfect-summer-jacket.html