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Are they all Guidi leather? The calf on the one I've just proxied for someone that I was inspecting... it's alright leather, looks like it could be the same leather as I've got on an Undercover and same as I've seen on some custom made sofas here as well, haha (though the UC and the sofas are not distressed/processed like the Incarnation). It's not bad leather at all, just that as with pre-distressed jeans.... pre-distressed leather jackets run the gamut of looking cheesy to looking great in terms of effect. You could put CCP on the high end there as they function almost as wearable sculpture sometimes, I'd put this old Julius jacket I have somewhere in the upper middle, it's not bad, but Incarnation isn't really doing it for me in terms of distressing. Perhaps calf doesn't process as nicely as lambskin, I don't know, but it's just not particularly nice. I find it kind of cheesy myself.
Hardware is YKK Excella, that pin pull might be custom made for them, it's not very functional... and the heavy distressing and warping up the placket makes it hard to zip closed, as with some of the other gothninja-esque jackets with heavy washes. I find the Incarnation snaps really offputting and cheesy. I'm not sure how much of these pieces are standardized but I'm sure they appear on more than just one model.
The construction isn't bad, but nothing special in the least. Lining is just like an old Julius, no interior pockets, seamwork is what it is... it's probably made in just the same factories as the other Japanese brand leather jackets. No handwork that I can see, the cut raw edge seams are the style I guess, but to me I see that as being the easy cop out way to make a seam, and would rather be looking at nicely tucked and finished edges as on a Julius. If the old Julius I have would be an 8 or 9 out of 10 in terms of 'impressive factory made garment' then I'd give this Incarnation about a 4/10.
My sticking point is really that, all of the above considered, it just seems rather insipid to me, none of these things do anything for the jacket. Perhaps it's several weak concepts hobbled together, perhaps there's potential not fully realized, it could be a lot of things, but the patterning is not special, nor articulate, and so the piece just doesn't have any life in it to me. A good leather jacket, whatever the style may be, should be able to hang on a hanger or lie crumpled in a ball on your floor and still emanate a bit of form and energy, that is the beauty of using a substantial material like leather.
How much do they retail for in Japan?
Care to share?
A friend owns the fencing, and I've messed around with it and some others on my last Japan trip. Guidi is Guidi, and the hardware is probably my favorite of any brand (or it would be, if they'd stop ******* branding it). Stitching/construction wasn't anything showy or elaborate, but it seemed fine. I thought the fit and dimensions on a lot of the patterns were really sloppy, though I suppose mileage varies by body type. It also seems really derivative in terms of actual profile and design. A less military wjk, I suppose.
I'm fond of Incarnation, but I don't think it's the second coming or whatever like people seem to. I like the Guidi parts a lot more than the Incarnation parts. Although from what I've heard some of the retail practices Ogawa uses are interesting, just from a business trends angle.
Someday, Devoa will make leather jackets and I will never have to shop around again. Someday.
Are they all Guidi leather? The calf on the one I've just proxied for someone that I was inspecting... it's alright leather, looks like it could be the same leather as I've got on an Undercover and same as I've seen on some custom made sofas here as well, haha (though the UC and the sofas are not distressed/processed like the Incarnation). It's not bad leather at all, just that as with pre-distressed jeans.... pre-distressed leather jackets run the gamut of looking cheesy to looking great in terms of effect. You could put CCP on the high end there as they function almost as wearable sculpture sometimes, I'd put this old Julius jacket I have somewhere in the upper middle, it's not bad, but Incarnation isn't really doing it for me in terms of distressing. Perhaps calf doesn't process as nicely as lambskin, I don't know, but it's just not particularly nice. I find it kind of cheesy myself.
Hardware is YKK Excella, that pin pull might be custom made for them, it's not very functional... and the heavy distressing and warping up the placket makes it hard to zip closed, as with some of the other gothninja-esque jackets with heavy washes. I find the Incarnation snaps really offputting and cheesy. I'm not sure how much of these pieces are standardized but I'm sure they appear on more than just one model.
The construction isn't bad, but nothing special in the least. Lining is just like an old Julius, no interior pockets, seamwork is what it is... it's probably made in just the same factories as the other Japanese brand leather jackets. No handwork that I can see, the cut raw edge seams are the style I guess, but to me I see that as being the easy cop out way to make a seam, and would rather be looking at nicely tucked and finished edges as on a Julius. If the old Julius I have would be an 8 or 9 out of 10 in terms of 'impressive factory made garment' then I'd give this Incarnation about a 4/10.
My sticking point is really that, all of the above considered, it just seems rather insipid to me, none of these things do anything for the jacket. Perhaps it's several weak concepts hobbled together, perhaps there's potential not fully realized, it could be a lot of things, but the patterning is not special, nor articulate, and so the piece just doesn't have any life in it to me. A good leather jacket, whatever the style may be, should be able to hang on a hanger or lie crumpled in a ball on your floor and still emanate a bit of form and energy, that is the beauty of using a substantial material like leather.
How much do they retail for in Japan?