Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[fllick]

All right, I recently went to Tokyo and took the opportunity to try out a bespoke shoe maker. Pics below.

Started off by discussing about the design for the two pairs I bespoke - 1 round toe, and 1 chisel toe. Provided him pictures as reference and he sketched how it'd look like.









Discussed the detailing for the shoes - pitched heel and fiddleback waist - spent some time pondering if I should go for the fiddleback back waist because for Japanese shoemakers, these don't come as standard, and they cost up to 250 USD extra. Money that could be well channeled into another pair of shoes.





Then chose the leather - for one pair I opted for the lacquered Japanese Kurozan leather that came at a significant upcharge, and for the second pair, went with box calf.





Measurement process. Had me stand on two sheets of paper before he sketched out the outline of my feet and took measurements







Now, I'm going to have to wait for my fitting shoes. He'll send them to me, and I have a go at them before he cuts them up to determine areas for improvement, and makes the final pairs. Pictures of fitting shoes and those that have been cut up below. Was wondering if anybody knows if we can request to keep the fitting shoes

Tools he uses to make the last, and finish the shoes









Some miscellaneous points:

Was contemplating whether to opt for lasted trees and I was showed two pairs of shoes, both on the same last barring the toe-shape -- one has been stored on a last, the other, on a generic pair of trees. Spot the differences of the effects of the trees on the shoe!

Some bonus pictures that are non-shoes related, though hand made. Don't mean to hallow all things Japanese but I popped into a spectacle shop and was blown away by the fact that even their glasses are handmade with minute attention to finish and details - this is celluloid with steel combination. Maker's name is engraved in kanji characters, and the phrase "hand made" is as well. and not very princely in price either.



Process of making the glasses.

Thats looks amazing! Could you provide the name of the maker? Also, which was the the Japanese kurozan leather you picked? Couldn't figure it out. I too was blown away by the Japanese when I was there previously.

 

[agedashidofu]

It's gentille 79
Koji Endo who previously trained under Anthony Delos
Very lovely couple and shop in Fudomae area in Tokyo

 

[bboysdontcryy]

Yes, that's right. Unfortunately they have new plans in the works and, I believe, no longer take in new customers.

Anyways, to the Kurozan leather. They have a number of varieties as indicated in the picture. Contented myself with the embossed ones instead of the handrubbed ones which cost upwards of 350 usd extra, in addition to the additional upcharge from regular calf to the Kurozan leather. Soaked in plant tannin and lacquered thrice. Allegedly used in martial arts equipment though I can't vouch for the veracity because the only martial arts feat I perform is a mental one -- against the compulsion to buy more shoes.



Top two are Kurozan, as is the black. First encountered this leather when I saw it on a pair by Spigola.



I did think his shoes had a Delos-esque styling to them, though he also seems to have synthesised that learning with his Japanese sensibility.

http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2014/07/23/my-new-life-at-berluti-an-interview-with-anthony-delos/

 

[chogall]

Is that the same leather to make leather Samurai armors?

 

[agedashidofu]

LOL
I hope not )

 

[bboysdontcryy]

Interestingly when I raised the question about durability, koji commented that whist the exterior of the kurozan is definitely tough, overall it's less durable vis-a-vis the box calf. The interior/other side or the leather is definitely softer than the box calf.

 

[chogall]

LOL
I hope not )

3 Gold
Kurozan Leather Shoes
Defense + 20
Agility + 20
Strength +5
Intelligence + 5

 

[VRaivio]

"...Allegedly used in martial arts equipment though I can't vouch for the veracity because the only martial arts feat I perform is a mental one -- against the compulsion to buy more shoes."

: D

 

[mcl911]

Amazing shoes by Koji! Wondering how much did it cost for both

 

[bboysdontcryy]



Amazing shoes by Koji! Wondering how much did it cost for both

His old prices typically run North of 250k jpy.

However, given he is relocating to Canada, Toronto, I've no idea how much he'll change once he's based there

 

[Stefan88]

Received some pictures of the pair I'm packing up next week at Hiro Yanagimachi next week. Very pleased with trees look. Can't wait to try them!

 

[chogall]

Last adjustment or bespoke?

 

[Stefan88]



Last adjustment or bespoke?

Last adjustment, but really quite close to bespoke for me.

Laughed a bit when I saw that Jesper from shoegazing had his name on the last too!

 

[agedashidofu]



Received some pictures of the pair I'm packing up next week at Hiro Yanagimachi next week. Very pleased with trees look. Can't wait to try them!

Great choice! Among his lasts this shape is my favorite.

When I was there last time he insisted before going bespoke that I first try his ready made last and patiently tried a few adjustments on insoles etc. What a gentleman. I also find him quite knowledgeable about feet anatomy.

Very unfortunately I was in a rush with work and did not have time to return. I shall do that the next time I'm there!

Good luck with the shoes and all the best!

 

[Stefan88]

Hiroyuki and his crew are all great! Had the pleasure of bringing him and one of the clickers to Western Norway this summer. Great company!