-Jack/Knife Outfitters Bespoke Denim

[Gus]

Here are ties (their first product) bandanas and Field Notes covers

Japanese Chambray work shirt

 

[emptym]

Thanks for the pics, G. Wish I could have gone. Anyone ask my hemp question?

 

[UrbanComposition]

Rats. Totally was going to, then I had whiskey...

 

[amongmany]

Does anyone know if these guys to women's jeans? My lady has been looking for a pair of sturdy selvedge jeans and can't find many options. Wouldn't mind a pair for myself either. We're in NYC, but a trip to SF wouldn't be the worst thing in the world...

 

[jackknife]

@emptym I do not know of the top of my head what Cone Mill's available hemp fabrics are, but I can find out for you. The only hemp fabric we currently have in stock is a hemp selvedge chambray from Japan.

 

[brad-t]

I want a crocodile wall, too.

 

[Gus]

I visited Jack/Knife Outfitters in SOMA in San Francisco yesterday to begin my bespoke denim process. John and Nick, the owners of Jack Knife have studio that is shared with other creative businesses.






They asked me to bring my best fitting jeans. I selected a favorite pair of LVC 1947 501 XX. I also brought along a pair of LVC 1933 201 XX since they where the last pair of Levis to have both belt loops and a cinch. I wanted my new jeans to have a more modern fit, like the '47's, but with the cinch detail. I brought the 201XX along so that I had a visual example of the look of the cinch and discuss with Nick the placement of it. The 201XX has the cinch on the belt line and I wanted it below the belt loops.



Nick began by measuring the jeans and then took my measurements. We then discussed what fit, rise and inseam I would like. John began to show me their denim options. They range from special weave Cone Mills made in USA to rare Japanese denim. I selected left hand twill, Japanese denim from Kurabo. It uses an unlined selvedge in keeping with pre-1927 denim. (1927 was the year that Levis asked Cone Mills to add the red stripe to their selvedge to make it distinctive from other brands)

The Kurabo denim is woven using on a vintage, fully manual, wooden shuttle loom. The process gives the denim a distinctive finish due to variations in tension from the hand woven process.

Here is the denim I selected: (click on images for a larger pic)


Here are examples of some of their other denim



One of the more interesting fabrics was a very dark inky blue that is shown above. It is a second generation run of overdyed duck canvas from Cone Mills. What a beautiful color! But I wanted a denim for my first jeans.

Since the look of denim, as it wears, varies depending upon the color of the weft threads they have many choices of denim with different weft colors. Some were dyed in mud, others bleached white and others left more of a natural cotton color. You can see the effect on the reverse side of the denim and you will enjoy it as your jeans break in and the color of the weft becomes more apparent.

 

[Gus]

Since Jack Knife jeans are bespoke you get to select many options and details.

John and Nick showed me a pair of jeans ready for their first fitting. These have their "Western" pocket shape:




With bespoke jeans you also get fully sewn and taped seams along with a choice of tape colors. These pics show an indigo dyed tape (which will fade to a soft chambray color eventually) and the pocket and fly details in progress. You get a choice of pocket material. Here a classic ticking fabric is used.





There is also a choice of thread. Most people use the classic golden color or a white. However other colors are available.





I sat down with Nick and John on their couch we discussed hardware and options. I decided to have covered rivets on the back pockets and exposed rivets on the front. The rivets they used are each done by hand, including hand cutting and hammering giving each one a subtle, distinct finish. Of course, you don't have to select rivets at all if that is your preference.

Jack Knife hardware:

 

[UrbanComposition]

I should be there in a couple hours. Stoked!

 

[Gus]

One of the things that has always been fun when reading about the adventures of many Style Forum members visiting their favorite tailors in Italy is after their visit going out for a meal. Good tailors must have a universal code because the guys treated me to one of my most delicious food discoveries in San Francisco in a very long time. Just as pizza is the tasty fuel of Naples, it seems that cool, little sandwich places are becoming the fuel for tech startups in SOMA. This little hole-in-the-wall is called the Little Skillet.





It is located right next door to Jack Knife.

They took the lead in placing the order and we enjoyed fresh pear lemonade, Fried chicken sandwiches, seasoned fries and red velvet cup cakes.

(Click the image for a larger , juicy pic)



Note the home made fresh fried potato chips^^^



My advice is to "eat after you are measured". If you are in the area, stop by for lunch. You will be glad you did.

 

[Gus]

I will be returning to Jack Knife next week for my first fitting. They say to expect two fittings and the process to take about 3 weeks. I'll post more pics as I go through this. I just hope I don't eat too many of those fried chicken sandwiches or I may need a second, much larger pair of jeans

 

[Gus]



I should be there in a couple hours. Stoked!

Urban, I'm sure you will have fun. Let us know what denim you select. They have some amazing choices.

 

[dernsaw]

I'm really interested in seeing the finish product. I'll be down in that area in the coming months so I'm definitely going to have to stop in.

 

[sugarbutch]

Thanks for the write-up, Gus!

 

[NOBD]

Great read and watch, psg. Looking forward to seeing the result.