Ideal Fitting Shirt 101

[bubba04]

What are all the factors to consider to achieve an "optimal" fit on a shirt? The discussion should revolve around the minute details of those factors. Pictures of what you consider an ideal fit are welcome. Even if you have a picture that overall does not seem ideal, but that illustrates a particular component that contributes to an ideal fit, please feel free to post.

For context, I am a MC rookie and would love to try a MTM shirt, but I first want to make sure I fully understand all the "rules of thumb".

 

[bubba04]

Damn, folks -- jeromestyle got more love than this before he got finally banned... I take it you fellas think this is a stupid/worthless thread or simply not worth contributing?

Maybe you can re-enforce or debunk a rule of thumb I have come up with recently.... I really hate how dress shirts bunch up on the lower back when tucked into my pants, then sorta baloon out a bit after sitting and bending over throughout the course of a typical work day, so I recently experimented with having a copule of my shirts altered at the mid-section. I think I have come up to the conclusion that a good waist measurement is one where I can pinch one side of my shirt at the waist level snug and lift no more than about 2.5 inches.... Does this sound reasonable?

I'll post pictures as soon as I can for some critiquing.

 

[Threadbearer]



I think I have come up to the conclusion that a good waist measurement is one where I can pinch one side of my shirt at the waist level snug and lift no more than about 2.5 inches.... Does this sound reasonable?.

I'd be curious to know if a shirt that snug would pass the sit-down test. If you own such a shirt, please put it on, button it up all the way, and sit down. Do the buttons pull across the front of the shirt and cause gapping? What about if you slouch down in the chair? These are serious questions, by the way. Like you, I'm trying to get a handle (love handle?) on this issue.

 

[D Yizz]

I've found that the best way to totally eliminate the ballooning is by a good balance between slimming the sides and darting. I can get the same slim effect by taking in the sides only, but then I'll have some pulling when sitting and/or the shirt will be too tight on the hips, having to unbutton the button closest to the hem, although this is not a problem.

I have a very difficult body type because I am short and have a very athletic body from years of training. With a wide back, very slim waist and thick quads, it is extremely difficult to fit an OTR shirt without some funky effects. Nonetheless, my tailor has been nailing my shirts lately. Yes, practice makes perfect.

Noteworthy, is that my latest shirts were CT Tailored fit, which come pre darted. I still had to slim them a bit on the sides and sleeves but came out quite good.

 

[BoboMax]

what is darting?

 

[Parker]

this is darting. vertical cuts in the back that take up extra slack.




I don't like it because it reminds me of women's shirts, but I think it can be helpful if you have a really broad chest or shoulders and narrow waist. If you're of average build, I think just tapering the sides is enough.

I prefer my shirts to be trim, but not too trim in the torso and sleeves, with high armholes and snug, but not too snug, cuffs and collar.

btw, if anyone's wondering, this guy's shirt is way too tight.

 

[D Yizz]

Exactly. Striped and patterned shirts tend to hide darts a lot better than plain colored ones. I prefer darts to unsightly bunching.

BTW, I wear my casual shirts just a bit tighter than my business ones, but not enough as to cause the pulling seen in that guy's shirt. That is just plain uncomfortable.

Another thing that helps with avoiding ballooning shirts is to get them without pleats. Center pleats add a ton of material to the lower rear part of a shirt.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



Striped and patterned shirts tend to hide darts a lot better than plain colored ones.

Darts are much more obvious on striped or patterned shirts, because of the distortion to the pattern, they certainly don't hide them better.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



this is darting. vertical cuts in the back that take up extra slack.




I don't like it because it reminds me of women's shirts, but I think it can be helpful if you have a really broad chest or shoulders and narrow waist. If you're of average build, I think just tapering the sides is enough.

I prefer my shirts to be trim, but not too trim in the torso and sleeves, with high armholes and snug, but not too snug, cuffs and collar.

btw, if anyone's wondering, this guy's shirt is way too tight.

It is interesting that this shirt looks to have no back yoke. I find that a bias cut back yoke allows you to have a slimmer shirt in the shoulders with some natural stretch to the fabric to make it more comfortable. Armholes that are too high on shirts makes the chest and shoulder feel tight and kinkus.

 

[tumadre]



I prefer my shirts to be trim, but not too trim in the torso and sleeves, with high armholes and snug, but not too snug, cuffs and collar.

Amen. +1 for the high armholes.

 

[D Yizz]



Amen. +1 for the high armholes.

Interesting handle, tumadre. lol!!

 

[Threadbearer]



btw, if anyone's wondering, this guy's shirt is way too tight.

+1 As long as he doesn't move, he'll be fine. But as soon as he raises his arms after the photo shoot, he's ruined.

Darts are much more obvious on striped or patterned shirts, because of the distortion to the pattern, they certainly don't hide them better.

That's my experience as well.

 

[poorsod]

This is a good video clip from Put This On. The first half is about how a shirt should fit.

http://putthison.com/post/6824514250/put-this-on-episode-6-body-jesse-thorn-visits

 

[xCrunchx]

i like how he says brooks brothers "so called" slim fit