how many ways to take in a jacket's sides

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by johnnyhooks

I took 1.5" from the back and .75" from the front. The shoulders are going to be a b*tch to fix since they need to be cut in, but what do you think about the sides as per this thread?

Is it possible to just take in the side seams or does this need to be taken in from the seam running through the pocket in order to make the jacket run smooth at the vent?

now that i see the pictures, its even more iffy. but you said the tailor is confident? are you?
in the picture the vent looks ok. but you seem to have pinned up the back a little too short.

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by bloke11

Yes, the vents don't seem to stay as flat as before, but still acceptable. I was charged pennies for that alteration. Since she's an ordinary seamstress I dare not ask for a vent remake. Instead of remaking the vents now, would taking in the center seam along the hip area improve anything?

does the vent area seem to pooch out, like its too big?
if so, then it sounds as though she stopped at the top of the vents.

 

[bloke11]

Something like that. It's like vertical folds of drape around the back flap. So I thought of taking in slightly from the center seam to minimize the folds.

 

[Svenn]

Originally Posted by a tailor

What to do when the back and sides fit perfectly, but the front looks like a maternity dress? It's true there is also a PLAN D. PLAN D Here's what we do. The dotted lines show how the front dart is taken in. If there is no dart, one can be made. Taking in the dart works well on a canvased coat, but on a fused job it may look a bit awkward, that's because of the extra bulk of the fusing. In this case, the pocket must be removed and re-made as before. The dart takes in above the pocket. Below the pocket is done at the underarm seam. See the offset of the seam. And no, that will not create lines of draw like Plan B. Plan D is often used for a person with a large chest and flat stomach.

So taking a dart in does not increase waist suppression? It just sort of sucks the lower half of the jacket onto the stomach more? What's the point of those certain front darts that go all the way down to the bottom of the front of the jacket, and just don't stop at the pocket?

 

[bloke11]

^It could be for people with tiny miny hips.

 

[iand]

Damn, your construction threads are fantastic a_tailor. Very helpful to me at the moment.

 

[BlackShoes]

5 star threak

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by Svenn

So taking a dart in does not increase waist suppression? It just sort of sucks the lower half of the jacket onto the stomach more? What's the point of those certain front darts that go all the way down to the bottom of the front of the jacket, and just don't stop at the pocket?
svenn you come up with a good question. bear in mind that this alteration is to reduce the front. if you notice the mark on the front edge that shows the center button. thats the level of the waistline. the dotted line shows that the waist line will be taken in as well as the hips. the same occurs on all the others. A,B,and C. if the waist line needed more suppression all of the new seams would be shaped differently. so as to remove more cloth at the waist level than the hip level. there are so many variations and combination that the fitter has to choose what and how it will be done. if waist suppression was the only requirement then we have a different alteration. the front dart would be shaped different and stopped at the pocket. the under arm seam would be shaped differently and go from the armhole to the pocket. the side seam A would go from the armhole to the waist level and then blend in at the hip level. now as to that lower front seam. most tailors would prefer to keep the front of the jacket as clean as possible. others feel that what ever permits the best fit is permissible. that seam would breakup a plaid. in fact some would omit the front dart also because of possibly of breaking the plaid. hope this helps. alex

 

[gcman]

Thanks for posting that. I just recently had to get C done and when my tailor mentioned it was a big job moving the pocket etc. I went with it as I trust him. Its nice to see and visualize what was being explained to me. My tailor is expensive and a bit of a perfectionist but very good so I wouldn't have it any other way. I just wish he were 15 years younger. All the good ones are retired or retiring.

 

[iand]

I will be having the waist taken in on a SC. My second goal is to open up the quarters. What is the best way to have both done at once? Photo:

(Please click the spoiler to see the photo. I don't want to clutter the thread up needlessly).

 

[unclesam099]



I will be having the waist taken in on a SC. My second goal is to open up the quarters. What is the best way to have both done at once? Photo:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

(Please click the spoiler to see the photo. I don't want to clutter the thread up needlessly).

From the looks of it, you want to do Plan A. a tailor, what is the difference when taking in the sides of a jacket with side vents? Is it the same procedure? If not, what is different? Must you reshape the vent?

 

[razl]



post #40 of 42 - 4/30/2011 - I will be having the waist taken in on a SC. My second goal is to open up the quarters. What is the best way to have both done at once?

post #41 of 42 - 1/18/2012 - From the looks of it, you want to do Plan A.

Sadly, you are about 8 months+ too late.

 

[ter1413]



Sadly, you are about 8 months+ too late.

 

[unclesam099]

Yes, but I still want to know about how to take in the sides of a jacket when it has side vents.

 

[a tailor]

yes unc.
when the hip area is loose the vents must be re made.
notice that the edge of the vent is in a straight line with the side seam.
the new vent is alined the same way the original was made.
usually there is too much cloth to be turned inside.
so some must be cut off. but most tailors try to leave some extra cloth inside.
why? just in case.