How do you like your suits to fit

[A Harris]

As I've always said, tagged sizes are not reliable. The only way to tell how a suit will fit is to try it on, or to compare (accurately taken) measurements. The problem with measurements is that a goodly percentage of ebay sellers and buyers don't measure correctly. Sites like Bluefly and Yoox, and catalogues are much worse - there are no measurements at all. Just a tagged size, usually of questionable origin.

If you are looking for bargains, it is a good idea to try on suits at every opportunity and get a good feel as to how different brands are cut. Using the seller's measurements (generally as a basis point from wich I guesstimate the true measurements) and my own knowledge of the cut and fit of different makers and labels, I have had pretty good success buying suits sight unseen.

As for the the original questions:

1) My chest measurement is appx. 44.5". I consider my proper suit size to be a 44 Long. However I own suits from different makers in sizes 42L, 44R, 44L, 46R and 46L.. Some fit better than others, but all fit acceptably at the very least (for RTW.)

2) Suit 2 doesn't fit. It could be argued that suit 1 fits, but I don't find the silhouette to be flattering for the model. Personally, I prefer a slimmer fit.    

think the waist also depends on the body.  I try to have a +2" on the widest possible waist measurement (as my waist tends to fluctuate between 33" to 35&quot, even though I wear size 32 Guess jeans.  For me it will be 44" chest/37" waist for a 7" drop.

There seems to be some misconception about drop. It does not refer to the difference between the chest and waist measurements of a jacket, in inches. Most suits you will see on the market have a drop of 6 or 7. For a size 42, that would mean a chest measurement of 46" and a waist measurement of 39" or 40". This would look ridiculous.

I must admit that I have not been able to get a conclusive answer on what the drop number refers to. It could refer to the difference between the chest and waist measurements of the person in inches. Or perhaps the difference between the chest and waist measurements of the jacket in centimeters. I don't know for certain.

 

[The Dandy]

While I'm the one dissenting opinion here, I'd like to expand upon my statements.

First, I'm neither old nor out of shape, however, I think there are far more suitable (pardon the pun) pieces of clothing for displaying one's physique than a suit. I'd say bathing suits and the like are a far better way of doing this.

As for tightly fitting suits, I personally think they look ridiculous. Just as an overly loose suit looks like an ill-fitting vestige of your father's wardrobe, a tight suit lends the appearance of one who has outgrown their clothes and refuses to admit to it.

Additionally, unless one is in absolutely perfect physical condition, wearing a tight suit will either make one look like a waif-like male model, a very effeminant look lacking in masculinity, in my opinion, or the suit will end up looking like a sausage casing.

However, this idea is highly correlated to one's own sense of style. If one is interested in looking trendy, fashionable, and stylish according to present conventions, one must follow the current rules of style. Obviously, judging from such things as the pink pants and seersucker suits in my closest, I took a wrong turn and never found my way back on the path.

 

[Brian SD]

As for tightly fitting suits, I personally think they look ridiculous. Just as an overly loose suit looks like an ill-fitting vestige of your father's wardrobe, a tight suit lends the appearance of one who has outgrown their clothes and refuses to admit to it.

Precisely.

 

[regularjoe]

I must admit that I have not been able to get a conclusive answer on what the drop number refers to. It could refer to the difference between the chest and waist measurements of the person in inches. Or perhaps the difference between the chest and waist measurements of the jacket in centimeters. I don't know for certain.

I always thought "drop" referred to the difference between the tagged size of the jacket and the waist of the slacks, e.g., 7 inch drop on a 38R jacket means the trouser waist size is 31 (6 inch is 32, so on and so forth).

While we're on the topic, what is a generally acceptable difference between the chest size of a jacket and the waist size? Four inches?

 

[A Harris]

I always thought "drop" referred to the difference between the tagged size of the jacket and the waist of the slacks, e.g., 7 inch drop on a 38R jacket means the trouser waist size is 31 (6 inch is 32, so on and so forth).

I think that is most likely. It should be noted that the tagged size refers to the wearers chest measurement, and the pant waist corresponds with the wearers waist measurement, thus I said "it could refer to the difference between the chest and waist measurements of the person in inches."

Acceptable difference between the chest and waist measurement of a jacket is 2-4". Less than 2" and it looks to much like a sack, more than 4" and it looks overly suppressed for most men - a lot of the current RLPL suits have this problem. Ralph seems to like the look of a very wide shoulder coupled with a very suppressed waist. Like the pictures you see of Douglas Fairbanks Jr.

 

[regularjoe]

Acceptable difference between the chest and waist measurement of a jacket is 2-4". Less than 2" and it looks to much like a sack, more than 4" and it looks overly suppressed for most men - a lot of the current RLPL suits have this problem. Ralph seems to like the look of a very wide shoulder coupled with a very suppressed waist. Like the pictures you see of Douglas Fairbanks Jr.

As usual, thanks for the info.

 

[Alias]

I don't think suit #2 is too tight. I think it's pulling that way across the front because of how he's standing, with one hand in his pocket. I'm sure that, if he were standing normally, the suit would drape across the front quite nicely.

 

[Qasimkhan]

Neither suit is fitted properly. Perhaps if #2 assumed a proper posture, the jacket would fit, but I have my doubts. It is clearly pulling at the waist button. The shirt sleeve is either too short or pulled up into the jacket. And the trousers are too long, bunched up over the shoes. Too bad he didn't polish his shoes or visit the barber to trim his tangled mop before the photo shoot.

Model #1's suit looks more like a burlap feed sack made from expensive wool than a suit. Is it my imagination, or are the trouser legs and jacket sleeves different lengths?