HOF: Labels, heels and nail patterns - Secrets to ID the maker

[vogda]

Originally Posted by PhiloVance

Could someone post examples of the Peal Brooks Brothers heels? I believe this is one of the main culprits . . .it would be nice to know which are C&J and which are AS . . . although based on the Polo heel pics, the Peals with one row of nails are probably also C&J.

alden Blucher plein toe

 

[vogda]

Originally Posted by vogda

alden Blucher plein toe







C&J Boswell ?

 

[vogda]

Originally Posted by vogda

C&J Boswell ?
John Lobb Farndon and Sprint II
ot a very common model

 

[summej2]

How about writing on the inside of the shoe? EG hand writes a serial number, the size, and a last number on the inside. Tricker's does the same. CJ prints this information. What other English makers hand write information in the shoe?

 

[grimslade]

C&J hand-writes, at least in the handgrade models.

 

[minimal]

Originally Posted by grimslade

C&J hand-writes, at least in the handgrade models.

Most of the time this is true, but I've seen a bunch of handgrades that are printed (weymouths at the NY store, for example).

Just FYI...

 

[Leaveitothexperts]

Originally Posted by minimal

Most of the time this is true, but I've seen a bunch of handgrades that are printed (weymouths at the NY store, for example).

Just FYI...

I just got a pair of belgraves from plal that are printed . . . . really sexy shoes btw . . .

 

[Earthmover]

Here's some of my contributions -- I don't think any of these have been posted yet. From left to right:

1. Corneliani mainline (fully canvassed) sportcoat.
2. H.Freeman, older label (fully canvassed, handmade double-sewn Oxxford style buttonholes) navy blazer.
3. Samuelsohn Austin model.
4. Southwick, half-canvassed model.
5. Grenson Masterpiece, non-Paul Stuart line.

 

[Dmax]

Canali or whomever makes them for Canali. Hope to add more later.

]

 

[west coast wonderboy]

picked up a worsted black chalkstripe suit at a vintage gents store in London recently and I've been trying to figure out what its origin is... it hasn't got any labels other than this one.

 

[A Harris]

Does anyone have any pics of the size/content tag on a recent Corneliani suit or sportcoat? It just dawned on me that the tags inside the current Polo suits and jackets are pretty much identical to those I've seen in Canali suits, but not to any Corneliani I've seen. I think they switched suppliers. Probably a ways back, as I seem to remember the older Blue Label stuff having the Corneliani tags.

 

[Earthmover]

Originally Posted by A Harris

Does anyone have any pics of the size/content tag on a recent Corneliani suit or sportcoat? It just dawned on me that the tags inside the current Polo suits and jackets are pretty much identical to those I've seen in Canali suits, but not to any Corneliani I've seen. I think they switched suppliers. Probably a ways back, as I seem to remember the older Blue Label stuff having the Corneliani tags.

Andrew, about a few posts up, the first picture attached is a Corneliani mainline sportcoat from about 1.5 years ago from STP (so probably 3 years old-ish?). It's a little dark, so if you want a brighter picture I can try to take it later today.

 

[A Harris]

Thanks Earthmover. It's as I thought then - the current Polo and signature line suits are almost certainly Canali, not Corneliani.

 

[DocHolliday]

Really? I need to check out some of the current Polo suits.

 

[crazyquik]

First compare the Alfred Sargent Westminster from thier Premier Exclusive Collection:

to this Polo wholecut from my collection:


Other than the laces and the edge dressing (black vs brown), I think they are pretty close.

If so, then this is the Sargent heel; it's distinctive feature is the double row of nails. Also there are 3 nails across the dovetail on the combination heel. This matches what I have read on AAAC; that the Peals with a double row of nails on the heels are Sargents. Single row, made in England are C&J, and single row made in USA are Alden.