Garbadine vs "regular" wool for pants/trousers?

[Jumbie]

What's the difference? I did a search but didn't really turn up anything.

A quick Google search just basically told me that it's a tighter weave but tougher fabric and also that it has the potential to develop shiny spots more quickly.

Pros and cons vs regular wool?

Thanks.

 

[Sator]

Pro and cons - to what end or purpose? Gabardine is a fine choice for trousers. All twill weaves are prone to become shiney with useage. It is a tight weave so if you were thinking of summer fabrics then there are better choices which are hardier and run cooler such as Frescos.

 

[Jumbie]

I guess I was just thinking in general because whenever I see people on this site talking about suits or pants, it seems that regular wool is what they are using/buying. Yet, I often see RTW trousers made of garbadine so I was wondering what the reason was for [apparently to me] avoiding garbadine.

As far as pros, I was wondering if it was, let's say, more durable and cons might be that it drapes poorly, is more hot, doesn't feel/look as nice.

I'm specifically interested in pants because I'm in the market for some light/medium grey ones and was wondering if I should stick to regular wool or expand my options to include garbadine. Given that I tend to overheat (which is weird since I grew up in the Tropics and you'd think I'd be used to heat) easily and you say it wears as a warmer fabric, then maybe I should avoid it and stick to tropical wools.

 

[Sator]

Gabardine is a "regular wool". There is nothing special about the fibres themselves. The other woollens you see are mostly some particular weave or other anyway - twill weaves, pick and pick, faille, flannel etc. Straight plains weaves are usually in a minority in the offerings of most cloth companies.

As with any weave, the main thing is whether it is well done. There are good gabardines and bad ones, as with all weaves. So at the end of the day it is like asking if a Shiraz is a good wine.

And yes, if you tend to overheat stick with tropical wool or if you can find it, Fresco or Crispaire. They will perform much better for you in this regard.

 

[Jumbie]

Originally Posted by Sator

So at the end of the day it is like asking if a Shiraz is a good wine.

Is it?

Anyway, thanks for the answer. I just don't know much about fabrics and the differences between twill, flannel (other than it's warmer), garbadine, etc.

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by Jumbie

Is it?

Yes, especially the Australian ones. The GOOD Australian ones, that is

Treat yourself to a bottle of this stuff one of these days:

http://www.winehouse.com.au/categories.asp?cID=1249

I have heard that it's reputation results in its RRP being inflated to about $3-400 USD in North America.

But as with wine, you learn to appreciate good cloth. Heck, I'm still learning all the time.

 

[Despos]

Gabs are great for trousers and an occasional suit. They come in different weights, 8 ounce on the light side to 13 -14 ounce. They work best in lighter colors, mostly tan, that will not shine as quickly. It is very rare to find gabardine in RTW trousers. The term may be applied loosely to describe the weave or finish and not be a true gabardine. I don't think they run warm for summer wear but it depends on the weight.

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by Despos

I don't think they run warm for summer wear but it depends on the weight.

It used to be said that gabardine was a summer fabric. However, it is an almost water-tight weave and Alex (a tailor) says that in his day, before the invention of synthetics, they used to use it make skiing gear out of.

 

[Despos]

I think the best use for gabardine is outerwear.

I have heard much about using wool gabardine as a shirting but have not seen one.

 

[CPATAILOR]

Originally Posted by Despos

Gabs are great for trousers and an occasional suit. They come in different weights, 8 ounce on the light side to 13 -14 ounce. They work best in lighter colors, mostly tan, that will not shine as quickly. It is very rare to find gabardine in RTW trousers. The term may be applied loosely to describe the weave or finish and not be a true gabardine. I don't think they run warm for summer wear but it depends on the weight.
Chris- Which U.S. woolen companies lighter weight gab do you recommend?

 

[sammy]

I have a pair of heavy weight (14-15+ oz) taupe gabardine trousers that are perfect for the fall and winter- warm, very durable, and they hold a crease like nothing else. The tightness of the gabardine weave would suggest that it would not be suited for warmer weather. I'm not sure why its considered a warm weather suiting. But a tan gabardine suit does look very natty. I saw one at RL the other day.

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by CPATAILOR

Chris- Which U.S. woolen companies lighter weight gab do you recommend?

I doubt that anyone weaves gabardine in the US. I'm not sure if the US ever had an extensive weaving industry. I cannot think of any books from British cloth merchants who offer quality gabardine off the top of my head.

 

[Despos]

Years ago I was told the best gabs were woven around Balogna in Italy.

FYI, the best gabs will have the same diagonal pattern on the face and the back of the cloth. If the back on a gab looks different than the face it is not authentic.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by Despos

Gabs are great for trousers and an occasional suit. They come in different weights, 8 ounce on the light side to 13 -14 ounce. They work best in lighter colors, mostly tan, that will not shine as quickly. It is very rare to find gabardine in RTW trousers. The term may be applied loosely to describe the weave or finish and not be a true gabardine. I don't think they run warm for summer wear but it depends on the weight.

In case no one noticed, that was the kind of advice that is very hard to come by and comes only from someone with lots of experience who has been paying attention while doing their work. I am filing it away. Thanks.

One of my favorite RTW suits was/is an early Chester Barrie RL Purple Label DB suit in navy gabardine. The fabric had the most beautiful drape, but developed a shine all over. I still like to wear it, but the shine makes it a little shabby looking. I loved the unique draping quality, and now I know what to think about if I ever want another gabardine suit.

 

[Manton]

Two things about gab, which are not really pros or cons, just things to consider.

1) The tight weave can make it very hot. Air really does not get through it at all. Gab is often thought of a spring/summer cloth, and certainly the best colors are the lighter ones. But even in light weights, gab is not the thing for really hot days.

2) It has a very polished, sharp finish. It does not look so good (IMO) as "informal" wear. It needs a smart coat, and nice shoes. With anything else, I think it looks out of place. Also, it's not great as a casual trouser.