Hello, I am a short and stocky guy and as a result, my measurements are pretty dis-proportionate:
Jacket/Chest: 44 short
Neck: 17 1/2
Arm: 31
Pants: 38 x 29
Because of this, I accept that almost everything I wear will have to be shortened (sleeves, pants hems, etc). This means that I can almost never buy off the rack, even for casual items.
In addition to this, I also have another issue with suit jackets that makes it feel impossible to find something that works for me, even in circumstances when I am able to find the right short size.
I have been to so many different purveyors and have yet to find someone who understands the issues I have and why. As a result of this, I have been wearing the same ill-fitting suit for ten years and it has started to deteriorate. I have also tried a number of the custom and made to measure options, and the results have not been better. It is so discouraging, I feel like giving up.
My issue seems to be related to the underlying structure of most suit jackets. Even when the jacket fits me in the shoulders, it never seems to rest or drape correctly on me. I will get pinching in back, arms and armpits from the back of the jacket, while the front will often feel like there is too much fabric and the jacket will want to move away from my body. Moving my arms in any way will exasperate the problem. It just feels like a suit jacket never rests in the right places which throws of the entire geometry. This leaves me with little to work with. I am accepting that this may mean I have to go full bespoke, however, that is bot an option for me financially right now.
I have done a lot of research and suspect that the issue may be related to the sleeve/armhole hight, size, or pitch, but I have not been able to find a professional who can confirm the problems.
To provide on example of how most off the rack suit jackets fit me, these are two photos from one I tried on recently. It goes without being said that the sleeve and likely jacket are too long, but I am looking for feedback specifically on the other issues I mentioned. Thank you!
Jacket/Chest: 44 short
Neck: 17 1/2
Arm: 31
Pants: 38 x 29
Because of this, I accept that almost everything I wear will have to be shortened (sleeves, pants hems, etc). This means that I can almost never buy off the rack, even for casual items.
In addition to this, I also have another issue with suit jackets that makes it feel impossible to find something that works for me, even in circumstances when I am able to find the right short size.
I have been to so many different purveyors and have yet to find someone who understands the issues I have and why. As a result of this, I have been wearing the same ill-fitting suit for ten years and it has started to deteriorate. I have also tried a number of the custom and made to measure options, and the results have not been better. It is so discouraging, I feel like giving up.
My issue seems to be related to the underlying structure of most suit jackets. Even when the jacket fits me in the shoulders, it never seems to rest or drape correctly on me. I will get pinching in back, arms and armpits from the back of the jacket, while the front will often feel like there is too much fabric and the jacket will want to move away from my body. Moving my arms in any way will exasperate the problem. It just feels like a suit jacket never rests in the right places which throws of the entire geometry. This leaves me with little to work with. I am accepting that this may mean I have to go full bespoke, however, that is bot an option for me financially right now.
I have done a lot of research and suspect that the issue may be related to the sleeve/armhole hight, size, or pitch, but I have not been able to find a professional who can confirm the problems.
To provide on example of how most off the rack suit jackets fit me, these are two photos from one I tried on recently. It goes without being said that the sleeve and likely jacket are too long, but I am looking for feedback specifically on the other issues I mentioned. Thank you!
