French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

[sipang]

Could this be Arnys? They did use Isaia at some point

 

[RJman]

Quite possibly, although the lapel design doesn’t quite look like theirs.

French outfitter Julien Scavini had a fascinating guide to the different variants of notches favored by Parisian tailors and shops:

Le(s) revers parisien(s) (MàJ)

Dans la bataille opposant les styles italiens et anglais, nous possédons une carte plutôt unique et qui signe immédiatement l’origine française – parisienne – d’une costume …

stiff-collar.com

D’où vient le cran parisien

C’est une question que l’on me pose assez souvent. Mais d’où vient le cran parisien? Pourquoi l’est-il d’ailleurs ? La première chose à faire est de caractériser cette forme de revers de veste…

stiff-collar.com

Quelques crans de revers

L’un des traits notables de style en ce qui concerne les vestes est d’abord et avant tout la forme du revers, et par là même, celle de son cran. Nous verrons que si son origine est d&rs…

stiff-collar.com

 

[Voidoid]

From the pictures it's definitely not Arnys jacket, cause I think Arnys jackets have branded lining.
Still maybe I will pull the trigger, the only thing that stop me is loro piana super blablabla and charcoal color.

 

[Texasmade]

Kenjiro Suzuki reappeared on IG after shutting down a couple years ago. Now he's in Tokyo making suits.

 

[RJman]

Kenjiro Suzuki reappeared on IG after shutting down a couple years ago. Now he's in Tokyo making suits

Kenjiro Suzuki reappeared on IG after shutting down a couple years ago. Now he's in Tokyo making suits.

Kenjiro Suzuki reappeared on IG after shutting down a couple years ago. Now he's in Tokyo making suits

Kenjiro Suzuki reappeared on IG after shutting down a couple years ago. Now he's in Tokyo making suits.

Yeah some of us had noticed his Paris business had gone into liquidation a little while ago: https://www.societe.com/societe/kenjiro-suzuki-sur-mesure-paris-790962187.html

 

[jonathanS]

Yeah some of us had noticed his Paris business had gone into liquidation a little while ago: https://www.societe.com/societe/kenjiro-suzuki-sur-mesure-paris-790962187.html

I wonder how existing clients / orders were handled.

 

[RJman]

Dunno. I think it’s just an incredibly tough environment to be an independent custom tailor or shoemaker in Paris rn especially one without a lot of history. Rents are really high and the trend for dressiness is going away except for a few weirdos and enthusiasts like us.

I know that Suzuki seemed to have some clientele in Japan before his business closed; its understandable he’d set up there.

In Paris I know that one of the duo from Air (Nicolas Godin?) was a customer. Amusingly, a friend of mine worked with Godin on a project and said he wouldn’t stop talking about his shirts, so he sounds like one of us.

 

[jonathanS]

Dunno. I think it’s just an incredibly tough environment to be an independent custom tailor or shoemaker in Paris rn especially one without a lot of history. Rents are really high and the trend for dressiness is going away except for a few weirdos and enthusiasts like us.

I know that Suzuki seemed to have some clientele in Japan before his business closed; its understandable he’d set up there.

In Paris I know that one of the duo from Air (Nicolas Godin?) was a customer. Amusingly, a friend of mine worked with Godin on a project and said he wouldn’t stop talking about his shirts, so he sounds like one of us.

I can’t speak from personal experience, but I can give anecdotal stories of artisans in Italy who aren’t Italian: I know it’s rare for them to have Italian clientele. It takes a long time, which is part of why kotaro (Sartoria corcos) in Florence is so impressive: even Italians consider him one of the best young tailors of the next generation in Florence.

Having said that, Suzuki, I think his rents are probably high & probably most of his clients are Japanese (whose currency has been devalued relative to the rest of the world). I’m guessing that really took a toll on his business (and why he moved to Japan). He seemed to do a nice suit for Simon Compton. Also, with a lot of clientele, the brand name (ciffonelli or camps de luca, and to an even greater extent, G, LV, H) is more of a driving force than the quality of the jacket.

 

[clee1982]

Does Cifonelli travel to NYC more often than Camps De Luca, seems like I hear more about Cifonelli client than Camps De Luca?

 

[RJman]

Cifo’s been doing the trips to New York longer, plus for over 20 years they’ve been able to get their name out through things like licensed ready to wear that used to be sold at Wilkes Bashford and Neiman Marcus. I think Camps de Luca travels to NY at least two or maybe three times a year.

 

[Texasmade]

CdL only recently started traveling to NYC while Cifo has been going for years. Plus Cifo constantly posts on IG while CdL hardly does anything.

 

[poorsod]

I think Julian is in town Sunday and Monday according to their instagram.

 

[clee1982]

yup, I just checked, not going to make it, guess next time

 

[dawei94]

More fulsome post to come later, but I just picked up a 3-pc peak lapel dinner suit from Cifonelli (pic of Alex @ Cifonelli presenting it to me attached). The Cifonelli team was particularly gracious in working with my fairly rushed schedule, as I was informed that a wedding I am attending tomorrow was black tie not optional in early November. I emailed them, they happened to be in NYC a week or two after I emailed them, so I met them in NYC with my previous commission so that they could judge any changes. I then saw them in Paris the week of Thanksgiving, which was a week and a half after meeting in NYC. The fabric arrived to their atelier late so they had just cut the fabric and were creating the basted fitting as I got there, during which time they took the opportunity to show me the workshop. I was then in Paris from March 11-14, during which time they completed 3 more fittings and finished the suit hours after the last fitting.

Even though I am not a frequent customer of Cifonelli or a particularly important one, and I usually show up to their atelier dressed quite poorly, Lorenzo, Massimo, Alex and Jean Paul are always super welcoming and worked with my fairly demanding schedule (when I showed up on the evening of March 11, the jacket and vest were still basted, while the trousers were done but needed to be shortened a bit and loosened a bit in the seat, and I left for CDG on the evening of March 14 with all 3 completed).

The team went above and beyond in both meeting the timeline and in other ways too. I didn’t have a bowtie, so they made me one…

For anyone thinking about ordering, I would say that the customer service are as outstanding as the garments

 

[Texasmade]

More fulsome post to come later, but I just picked up a 3-pc peak lapel dinner suit from Cifonelli (pic of Alex @ Cifonelli presenting it to me attached). The Cifonelli team was particularly gracious in working with my fairly rushed schedule, as I was informed that a wedding I am attending tomorrow was black tie not optional in early November. I emailed them, they happened to be in NYC a week or two after I emailed them, so I met them in NYC with my previous commission so that they could judge any changes. I then saw them in Paris the week of Thanksgiving, which was a week and a half after meeting in NYC. The fabric arrived to their atelier late so they had just cut the fabric and were creating the basted fitting as I got there, during which time they took the opportunity to show me the workshop. I was then in Paris from March 11-14, during which time they completed 3 more fittings and finished the suit hours after the last fitting.

Even though I am not a frequent customer of Cifonelli or a particularly important one, and I usually show up to their atelier dressed quite poorly, Lorenzo, Massimo, Alex and Jean Paul are always super welcoming and worked with my fairly demanding schedule (when I showed up on the evening of March 11, the jacket and vest were still basted, while the trousers were done but needed to be shortened a bit and loosened a bit in the seat, and I left for CDG on the evening of March 14 with all 3 completed).

The team went above and beyond in both meeting the timeline and in other ways too. I didn’t have a bowtie, so they made me one…

For anyone thinking about ordering, I would say that the customer service are as outstanding as the garments

Can't wait to see pictures of you wearing this!