Duffle Coats, Toggle Coats Recommendations Please

[Gus]

I've always liked the look and style of the classic wool Duffle Coat (also known as a Montgomery or toggle coat). My interest was spurred on a recent trip to the UK in a cold, damp November and seeing pics of the Bryceland gang at Pitti. In anticipation of spending more time in a casual colder winter climate, I'm thinking about getting one and am looking for suggestions and recommendations on RTW makers and length.

The two oldest British makers for the UK military that remain in business are Original Montgomery and Gloverall, but they only seem to offer a synthetic/wool blend. I would prefer 100% wool

I prefer the leather and buffalo horn toggles, not wood and cord.

Any suggestions and personal experiences would be appreciated.

 

[Gus]

An early Gloverall ad

 

[Gus]

Full cut, WWII British Navy version:

 

[emptym]

I'm basically cutting and pasting from a pm I sent to DWW. (I thought he had a really good post on his blog on duffles, but I can't find it. Maybe it was here.)

In any case, I have a great Chrysalis one from STP 14-15 yrs ago. Love the thing, but it's sized a bit large. Manufactum has one by them that's similar:
https://www.manufactum.com/mens-elysian-duffle-coat-p1518576/

If I wanted one now, this Invertere one would probably be the top contender:
https://www.beige-habilleur.com/en/coats/54-duffle-coat-navy.html

 

[Blake Stitched Blues]

London Tradition do some nice duffles and offer a MTM service also. Well dressed dad did a review and found them pretty good IIRC.

https://www.londontradition.com

Grenfell do some very high end ones in case you've ever felt the need for an Alpaca duffle.

https://grenfell.com/collections/duffle-coats/products/the-alpaca-duffle

Edit: Another promising option - Macintosh.

 

[bry2000]

I have had several over the years.

The best traditional one I have is from RL Polo (maybe a decade ago or so ago so not sure what they are making now). The one I have is a 100% lambswool tartan plaid which falls below the knee. Quality is excellent. I have not worn it in a few seasons since it is a bit too traditional for what I enjoy wearing right now.

I also have a very luxe charcoal duffle coat from RLPL. It is a little over the top in that it has a detachable fur trim on the hood.

Then there is aFrank Leder Duffle Coat in a heavy melton wool (coat must weigh at least 5 or 6 pounds), with those oversize toggles. It has roping, not leather though. It is a striking piece in a strange, science experiment way. No Man carried the one
I have a few seasons ago and there is another version currently on their website.

The duffle I enjoy wearing the most right now is the Valentino Montgomery coat. It is the designer's modern take on a duffle coat. It is very sleek and is reminiscent of a duffle coat in that it does not actually have toggles.

I am very much tempted by this season's Camoshita duffle in burgundy. The color looks great, but not sure of the fit based on the on-line measurements I have seen. Rope, not leather though.

 

[Gus]

Great recommendations everyone. On first review, I think the Invertere looks like it would best suit my needs. In addition to the 100% wool, it also offers the textured fabric which is more water and snow repellant. The styling is very well done. I wear a size 42US, I'm not sure if their size large would fit over a large sweater. Any idea about fit? Are these on the fuller boxy side or tailored?

 

[Gus]

Some detail pics of Invertere.

 

[bry2000]

How about also contacting the Bryceland guys to see which makers they are wearing? Their duffles look great.

 

[dieworkwear]

I've been wanting to get one for a while now too.

I dont know if I have anything special to add to what's already been mentioned above, but you can also find vintage Brooks Brothers ones, made in England, on eBay for not too much money. Can't speak for all of them, but I tried one on once and it fit in a nice, classic way.

 

[stifler]

I got the current Brooks Brothers duffle coat and am very happy with it....I bought the camel and am now wanting the navy as well haha