Aussie members - Dress Shirts?

[Sator]

Originally Posted by California Dreamer

AEs can be found at Peter Sheppard's if they have a Sydney outlet.

They do - within the Centrepoint Tower complex. AEs are an excellent suggestion.

 

[schanop]

Sator, you rocks.

The state of the dress over here in ACT is even worse ... It's a little cold at the moment, so track pants are every where.

 

[Presto87]

Originally Posted by Sator

Just turn up. Easy. No appointment needed. Pink striped shirting? Charles has more than you can poke a stick at.

There are a couple of Aussie shoes threads - try the search engine. Check out my RM Williams thread too.

ok sweet, I will definately have to take a look at the bespoke option .... and browse those threads .... oh and where is the Centrepoint Tower complex?? Do you mean along Pitt Street, "Westfields Centrepoint"??? and what store am I looking for? an AE outlet ... or ...?

 

[schanop]

That's correct, Presto87. A small orientation, going to the store is more or less like coming across from the bridge from DJ mens' section, walk pass Claude Sebastian on your left (?correct?) and Peter Shepperd will be around your far right hand corner.

 

[Presto87]

Originally Posted by schanop

That's correct, Presto87. A small orientation, going to the store is more or less like coming across from the bridge from DJ mens' section, walk pass Claude Sebastian on your left (?correct?) and Peter Shepperd will be around your far right hand corner.

OH, really?! Damn! I've walked past that shop like all the time, never paid attention to it though ... well I guess I haven't really gone to Pitt Street since like Boxing Day sales '06' - OMG! just realised how long that is!!! Instead I've been "window shopping" along Oxford Street, Paddington ... nice for jeans etc. Thanx for the info. Must make a trip VERY SOON!

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by schanop

That's correct, Presto87. A small orientation, going to the store is more or less like coming across from the bridge from DJ mens' section, walk pass Claude Sebastian on your left (?correct?) and Peter Shepperd will be around your far right hand corner.

That's it, yes.

http://www.petersheppard.com.au/

Just remember that to wear Park Avenues you need a suit. Even a sportcoat/blazer is too informal to wear with a plain captoe Oxford shoe. The selection of AE styles on offer is sadly limited but if you are looking for a more casual style then consider the Delray (especially in suede if they stock it). The Westfield is a bit of a step down from the Park Aves in formality, especially if they are brown, in which case they can be worn casually.

Remember AEs come in different widths and that if one style fits you that another one can be made on a different 'last' (see search engine for explanations). For example, the Park Ave is made on the Nr 5 last (an elongated last - long and slim) whereas the Delrays are on the Nr 8 (a tiny bit shorter and wider). You will find exhaustive discussion on AE lasts in the archives here and how to figure out which last any model is made on.

http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline...Id=40000000001

 

[Presto87]

Originally Posted by Sator

That's it, yes.

http://www.petersheppard.com.au/

Just remember that to wear Park Avenues you need a suit. Even a sportcoat/blazer is too informal to wear with a plain captoe Oxford shoe. The selection of AE styles on offer is sadly limited but if you are looking for a more casual style then consider the Delray (especially in suede if they stock it). The Westfield is a bit of a step down from the Park Aves in formality, especially if they are brown, in which case they can be worn casually.

Remember AEs come in different widths and that if one style fits you that another one can be made on a different 'last' (see search engine for explanations). For example, the Park Ave is made on the Nr 5 last (an elongated last - long and slim) whereas the Delrays are on the Nr 8 (a tiny bit shorter and wider). You will find exhaustive discussion on AE lasts in the archives here and how to figure out which last any model is made on.

http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline...Id=40000000001

yea I'm not really into casual AE's, I'd rather go for the Park Avenues/Westfields ... oh and thanx for the sizing info. With regards to the Peter Sheppard site, what do you think of the pairs on the first two pages of the men's catalogue? Thinking I might save up for one of those pairs!

 

[Matt]

Originally Posted by Sator

Just to explain a bit of local culture. This is the uniform Aussie attire:

I am afraid that in Oz anything with sleeves (extraordinary), or even buttons (wow) is generally regarded as having a similar level of formality to a tail coat and top hat.
bespoke shirts are easy for me. But where-o-where can I get a Hey Hey Its Saturday teeshirt?

 

[Zubberah]

Originally Posted by Sator

The answer to your problem is easy: Charles Nakhle bespoke. He easily makes the best bespoke shirt in Sydney.

69 Phillip St
Parramatta 2150
(02) 9633 4696

Because he is located out of the conservative business dress his prices are also much lower, starting at around the $200 mark. He stocks a huge range of exceptional fabrics from England, Italy and Switzerland. You will be spoilt for choice and anything else will become totally unwearable afterwards. His margins are ridiculously low but he refuses to compromise on quality and construction. I (and several others here) prefer them over $600+ shirts from the likes of Borrelli, Kiton, Brioni etc (whether MTM or RTW) in terms of fit, construction and fabric.

ps what do you mean by a non-business 'dress' shirt? Do you mean for black tie? Whatever you have in mind - casual, business, formal dress shirtings - Charles will have it all. Of course, because it is bespoke it is guaranteed to fit you perfectly.

Hmn, must go visit this guy soon. I usually have an opposite viewpoint to Sator on most things fashion/clothing-related but this could be a goer.

On another note, Peter Sheppard's have about half a dozen styles of AE footwear for $349 (policy is "never on sale"). I find that they sell on eBay for around US$200 plus US$40 shipping so you're not really saving much AFAIK (more sought after styles often go higher), especially given I have so rarely seen an AEs on eBay that don't have some sort of defect (used soles, slight scratching, etc).

As for non-business shirts, if you are after clubbing / party mode shirts, I strongly recommend Versace, Cavalli, D&G or Moschino. Nobody does it better than the Italians (although Sator will probably wince!) for clubbing shirts...

Off to Vince Maloney's now to check out their shoes such as fratelli Rossetti which are half price....

 

[The False Prophet]

Just curious, does anyone know Charles De Mille in Melbourne (down the street from the tailor Charles Maimone, around the corner from American Tailors)?

His shirts look pretty nice through his dusty window, but I couldn't get in to see him, as he was away (in Queensland) while I was down in Melbourne. The irony!

 

[California Dreamer]

Originally Posted by Zubberah

On another note, Peter Sheppard's have about half a dozen styles of AE footwear for $349 (policy is "never on sale"). I find that they sell on eBay for around US$200 plus US$40 shipping so you're not really saving much AFAIK (more sought after styles often go higher), especially given I have so rarely seen an AEs on eBay that don't have some sort of defect (used soles, slight scratching, etc). .

You can usually find AEs on STP for a lot lower than $200.

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by Zubberah

As for non-business shirts, if you are after clubbing / party mode shirts, I strongly recommend Versace, Cavalli, D&G or Moschino. Nobody does it better than the Italians (although Sator will probably wince!) for clubbing shirts...

That's fine - wear what makes you happy.

But look in the search engine here and you will find very little love of these labels. It is simply that the quality of the construction and fabrics is really average for the price that they ask.

The RTW brands that people here like include Kiton, Borrelli, Anna Matuozzo, Barba Napoli, and Charvet. Most of these are unavailable here, or hard to find, and overpriced when you do. If you go shopping on Madison Ave, however, they are easy to find and often on sale. In the absence of genuine high end labels, couture house stuff such as Armani look to the average Aussie as ruling at the top of the food chain. People are happy to pay inflated prices for them just to show off the label. The girls you hit on in nightclubs recognise them - so why not?

It all reflects a rampant ignorance here, from people used to wearing black t-shirts and flip flops. So when you get someone like Charles Nakhle offering bespoke shirts which in Manhatten would easily command a price of between $350-600 USD (depending on fabric and details of construction), he finds it a huge struggle to sell them - even after lowering his margins to about $30 AUD per shirt.

There is a customer of Charles who rings to order shirts from NYC and he keeps telling him that he should move to the US rather than trying to sell pearls to swine. And there is a definite risk that he may one day do just that.

 

[Zubberah]

Originally Posted by Sator

That's fine - wear what makes you happy.

But look in the search engine here and you will find very little love of these labels. It is simply that the quality of the construction and fabrics is really average for the price that they ask.

The RTW brands that people here like include Kiton, Borrelli, Anna Matuozzo, Barba Napoli, and Charvet. Most of these are unavailable here, or hard to find, and overpriced when you do. If you go shopping on Madison Ave, however, they are easy to find and often on sale. In the absence of genuine high end labels, couture house stuff such as Armani look to the average Aussie as ruling at the top of the food chain. People are happy to pay inflated prices for them just to show off the label. The girls you hit on in nightclubs recognise them - so why not?

It all reflects a rampant ignorance here, from people used to wearing black t-shirts and flip flops. So when you get someone like Charles Nakhle offering bespoke shirts which in Manhatten would easily command a price of between $350-600 USD (depending on fabric and details of construction), he finds it a huge struggle to sell them - even after lowering his margins to about $30 AUD per shirt.

There is a customer of Charles who rings to order shirts from NYC and he keeps telling him that he should move to the US rather than trying to sell pearls to swine. And there is a definite risk that he may one day do just that.


I have no problems with what you say Sator. In fact, I even agree. But, as I have bodled in your response, many of us like the aesthetics of clothing/fashion. "Quality of the construction and fabrics" is only one criteria for many people (myself included). Too many on SF and AA boards are obsessed with quality only. I'm happy for them. I like my clothing to look good too and for me that is just as important as "quality of the construction and fabrics", especially in a niteclub setting. Kiton and Borrelli I own in suits and ties, but would never in casual shirts, especially to a bar or niteclub. Too grandpa-ish. Don't even get me started on Oxxford, which must surely make the ugliest clothes of all, suits included. Of course that's just my huimble opinion. Maybe its a function of age differences. But having just gone to harrolds pre sale, the non-business stuff from Brioni and Kiton is, quite frankly, simply awful and ugly IMO no matter the overall quality (which is not in dispute).

Oh, I despise Armani btw. Yes, some "People are happy to pay inflated prices for them just to show off the label. The girls you hit on in nightclubs recognise them - so why not?" but not me. I am happy to pay inflated prices for something that nobody else has (I don't buy my Couture labels in Australia btw) and that distinguishes me from all others in Australia. I like having stuff that no one else does And I'm not so pretentious that I buy stuff for girls to recognise. I couldn't care less what they think. Quite the contrary.

 

[meister]

Were any of the Santonis good value at the Harrolds sale? Please advise

 

[misterjase]

Re a shirtmaker called Charles De Mille in Melbourne. I have not heard of him. I have heard of Charles Edward, who is located as described, but I have not bought a shirt from him.