Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[guccihomme]



Any issue with single pleated pants for a suit? I keep finding great suits on ebay but the pants always inevitably end up being a single pleat (Brooks Brothers).

Edit: I am aware that flat front is in vogue, but for a work/professional suit would a single pleat look dated?

If it fits and you like it, wear it.

 

[ads1234]

Hi all,

First time poster but a long time snooper on the site.

I am trying to buy a pair of trousers for work but currently I am having to buy maybe 1 or 2 sizes up just to get the trousers to fit around my legs. Has anyone come across a brand that caters for men with big legs?

Its a pain having to tailor the trousers every time!

Thanks,
Ads1234

 

[Isolation]

Is suitsupply's "pure wool" trousers flannel?

 

[cptjeff]



Is suitsupply's "pure wool" trousers flannel?

Depends on the pair. Flannel is a specific weave (light or midweight twill with a raised nap), wool is a fiber that can be woven into all sorts of other types of fabric as well. This pair, for example, appear to be flannel. This pair appears to be a twill without a raised nap, so not flannel.

Any issue with single pleated pants for a suit? I keep finding great suits on ebay but the pants always inevitably end up being a single pleat (Brooks Brothers).

Edit: I am aware that flat front is in vogue, but for a work/professional suit would a single pleat look dated?

Not at all. Just watch for dated details on the jacket- overwide and heavily padded shoulders, weird loose fits, low lapel notches, weirdly shaped lapel notches. Basically, make sure you're not buying something that just screams out 80s or early 90s.

If my shirt sleeves are too long, can a tailor shorten the sleeve by cutting out the gauntlet button+hole completely and moving the sleeves up past that?

Similarly, would it throw off the balance of a shirt too much by hemming the length just past the lowest button (remove everything up until right after the lowest button)?

They could do both, but that's pretty drastic shortening and would likely look awkward. You're probably better off just having shirts made for you- online made to measure like modern tailor can do it for reasonable prices.

 

[Kevin24]

Happy Holidays everyone!

I was on Charles Thywritt yesterday looking at some of their causal sweaters.

I was thinking of getting a couple of their sweaters since the price looked tempting and at least off the bat they didn't look too shabby.

I was wondering if anybody could comment on CT's sweater quality?

As I can't find many reviews on them at all out there. Other then one saying "avoid the cashmere but everything else was fine."

Thank you again,
Kevin,

 

[E TF]



Happy Holidays everyone!

I was on Charles Thywritt yesterday looking  at some of their causal sweaters.

I was thinking of getting a couple of their sweaters since the price looked tempting and at least off the bat they didn't look too shabby. 

I was wondering if anybody could comment on CT's sweater quality?

As I can't find many reviews on them at all out there. Other then one saying "avoid the cashmere but everything else was fine."

Thank you again,
Kevin,

I have a cardigan from them that's about 4 years old and is holding up pretty well. I'd say good quality for the price. I doubt the cashmere is much good though.

 

[Kevin24]

I have a cardigan from them that's about 4 years old and is holding up pretty well. I'd say good quality for the price. I doubt the cashmere is much good though.

It's labeled as "Made in Italy" if that implies anything about it's quality? And it's in my price range($70-110)

J Press has similar sweaters to what CT is offering(and probably better quality) However, offerings like the J Press Shaggy Dog are way out of my price range. I can't even find any of Press's iconic offerings on Ebay except as XXXLLL's.

While BB and RL are more expensive then CT on average and typically come from the mysterious land of imported as well. Which I am starting to try to avoid.

 

[YRR92]

At the low end, "made in Italy" doesn't mean much. Not exactly a better reputation for labor conditions than China, just high-end Italian manufacturing is very nice indeed, and that glamour rubs off on the lower end stuff.

I just bought something from Woolovers, who are frustratingly vague about where their stuff is made (Madagascar and Mauritius, it turns out), but very good for the price.

But yeah, cheap cashmere is not going to last nearly as well as lambswool or merino.

 

[12345Michael54321]



I just bought something from Woolovers, who are frustratingly vague about where their stuff is made

That frustrating vagueness is really all you need to know. Probably 98% of the time, if a retailer is reluctant to make clear just where the goods come from, it's safe to assume their origin is more like Tunisia or Kazakhstan, than the United States or Italy. I mean, when a catalog (print or online) lists a clothing item as coming from the exotic, far off land of "Imported," I tend to figure it's from Shenzhen, and not from London, you know?

Granted, some excellent quality goods can come from developing countries, and some terrible quality goods can come from the US, Canada, Japan, and Western Europe. Absolutely. But there's a reason why the marketing people like vagueness.

But yeah, cheap cashmere is not going to last nearly as well as lambswool or merino.

Yup. Frankly, while I agree that high quality cashmere can be a lovely thing, at anything less than the top quality level (which, alas, almost always means hundreds dollars per sweater), I'll take merino wool, any day.

$600 cashmere sweater vs. $600 merino wool sweater? Pick whichever one you like.

$75 cashmere sweater vs. $75 merino wool sweater? The smart money will go for the merino.

(Well, I suppose if I were... I don't know, maybe in the process of losing lots of weight, or were buying for a family member who was pregnant and thus temporarily oversized, or some similar situation where I knew the sweater would only be worn a few times then never again... even cheap cashmere might be okay. Quality differences tend to be minimized if the item is only going to be worn a handful of times. But hey, that's kind of a freak exception thing, and not really reflective of a typical person's circumstances.)

 

[smitty7777777]

I am quite aware of the quality issues with Hugo Boss, but I just purchased a $895 James Sharp fit suit (charcoal gray) for $314. Given I have broad shoulders, the jacket fit perfectly which I have not found in higher quality jackets I have found at Century 21 and elsewhere. For the price did I find a good deal, and any recommendations for higher quality suits for a V shape? I have heard RLBL but it is quite expensive given I'm a recent college graduate. Thanks

 

[smitty7777777]

Just picked up a Corneliani mainline black blazer, virgin wool, for $379 (originally $1300) from Century 21. I imagine it is canvassed but am not the greatest at checking, but since it is mainline/it's original price I would hope it is canvassed. Good deal ?

 

[zty_07]

I think it is good price.

 

[smitty7777777]

Actually it was $279, not $379. My bad.

 

[trainofthought4]

Hey all,

I just stopped by Haberdash in Chicago and picked up a windowpane sport coat from their Southwick for Haberdash collection. My problem is, though it looked like charcoal with more of a red line in the store, I got it home to find it was definitely a brown line (flash and non-flash photos below sort of show what I'm talking about). It's a little bit of an awkward color combo on one garment. I don't want to return it, as it fits me very well, so my question is, how the hell do I match it in terms of pants, shirts and ties? Thanks!

 

[YRR92]

^^

Nothing weird about it, in my opinion. It's actually more wearable than one with a true red in the windowpane, since it's more of a neutral.

But the colors that go with a dark gray odd jacket (trousers in brown or lighter shades of gray) will still match. As for shirts and ties, the only concern I'd have would be not doing a totally cool-toned shirt and tie -- a little bit of warmth in there will probably look more coherent with the jacket.