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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

HansderHund

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knilli was a good address back in the days. they don't have levi's though.


I haven't been inside there in awhile, but I walk by their window boxes on a regular basis. They seem to have decent prices and I wanted to go back to see about a jacket they had on display. They always list prices for their displays, but sometimes they don't give a maker and it just says "Sakko €995" or something. I'll try to get in there sometime this week. I'll be in America later this month so I thought I'd have better luck there, but I haven't seen those jeans in person.
 

ellsbebc

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how can a heel tap fall off when done correctly?
rubber:
heel.jpg


metal(mine):
DSC_0200.jpg


heel & toe

DSC_0189.jpg
I am referring to the below -- maybe I am using the wrong terminology. Once I get sole replacements, I will inquire about the ones your pictured.

 
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Sonorously

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Is my pants too tight? For me its kinda tight around the waist/buttocks region but other than that the thigh and legs fit perfectly. Is it possible if I were to bring it to a tailor for some minor adjustments? thanks!

Looks too tight definitely. Size up 1.
esq-how-it-should-fit-clothing-chart-2-0909.jpg
 

fritzl

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I am referring to the below --
maybe I am using the wrong terminology.  Once I get sole replacements, I will inquire about the ones your pictured.



they should be avoided. they are junk, sorry. the heel taps affect your gait in a bad way. don't do it.
 

ellsbebc

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they should be avoided. they are junk, sorry. the heel taps affect your gait in a bad way. don't do it.
No offense taken; I am here to learn. I know they are low quality. Would you suggest letting the soles just wear down after first receiving them then proceed with the taps you showed? And how much does that usually add to a sole replacement (I realize it is geographically dependent)?
 

fritzl

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No offense taken; I am here to learn.  I know they are low quality.  Would you suggest letting the soles just wear down after first receiving them then proceed with the taps you showed?  And how much does that usually add to a sole replacement (I realize it is geographically dependent)?   


i'm aware that it is not too easy to find a competent cobbler. i recommend to keep the toe taps for the moment. you can remove the heel taps yourself. the rubber tip of the dove tail isn't bad and holds up quite well. in the meantime you look out for a competent cobbler who can give you counsellation, which solution fits your situation best.

tbh, the metall ones are not for everyone for many reasons. i'm used to them and i love them.

as you said. costs are dependent of location.
 

cptjeff

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No offense taken; I am here to learn.  I know they are low quality.  Would you suggest letting the soles just wear down after first receiving them then proceed with the taps you showed?  And how much does that usually add to a sole replacement (I realize it is geographically dependent)?   


Keep the toe ones, all they do is make your toe spring up a little more, if even that. Just don't worry about the heels, let 'em wear, they only cost about $20 to replace. The toe tap will save a whole lot of wear on the sole itself, which is much more of a pain to replace.

Or you could do what I do- buy cut tacks at your local hardware store, cut them just a bit shorter, and hammer them in where the nails for the toe tap would go. The metal absorbs the wear without the noise and feel of the raised plastic lump. The cheap man's version of flush toe plates.

And the cost of replacing a sole varies depending on the workmanship and the quality of the leather sole used as well as location. A good cobbler will cost more, but the sole will be of better quality and the quality of the work much higher.
 
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runweighmodel

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Quick question.

My brother is 6'6" and has trouble finding suits unless he goes MTM. Anyone know any brands that would make RTW that might fit him?
It's really just the jacket length that is the issue; pants are fine, since they come unhemmed. He needs a jacket that's about 22" pit to pit, but about 2-3" longer than normal suits in the length and sleeve length.
Bonus points if the brands are Italian.

Thanks.
 

dah328

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I am referring to the below --
maybe I am using the wrong terminology.  Once I get sole replacements, I will inquire about the ones your pictured.



they should be avoided. they are junk, sorry. the heel taps affect your gait in a bad way. don't do it.



No offense taken; I am here to learn.  I know they are low quality.  Would you suggest letting the soles just wear down after first receiving them then proceed with the taps you showed?  And how much does that usually add to a sole replacement (I realize it is geographically dependent)?   


Keep the toe ones, all they do is make your toe spring up a little more, if even that. Just don't worry about the heels, let 'em wear, they only cost about $20 to replace. The toe tap will save a whole lot of wear on the sole itself, which is much more of a pain to replace.


Definitely keep the toe ones. While neither as pretty-looking or durable as fritzl's taps, they are not junk and they really don't affect your gait and they eliminate premature toe wear. That wear is a function of your particular gait and is not indicative of wearing your shoes too often. I have them on all my shoes and they last for quite a while before wearing down to the point where they require replacement.
 

dah328

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What would be the most appropriate type of outer pockets for a smart navy blazer with chrome/silver-coloured metal buttons - patch pockets, standard flap pockets, or slanted/hacking flap pockets? 


Patch or flap pockets would be roughly equal in appropriateness. Hacking pockets are more appropriate on jackets with sporting origins.
 

dah328

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I purchased this pair of Cole Haan's today from the Rack for $59. The right shoe has what appears to be "stretch marks". Is this repairable?



 


They're crease marks and I wouldn't consider them a big deal unless they were a lot bigger or deeper. It's inevitable that you will get them across the instep of the shoe where it flexes as you walk.
 

JakeGittes

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So we all know belt should match shoes, but not exactly (unless black).

But how much "unexactitude" is right? I try to keep at least a tonal and/or shade relationship; that is, if shoes are reddish brown, a similar, but darker or lighter reddish brown for the belt; not a chocolate, or a honey brown. Am I overthinking it?

Also, what do you couple an animal skin-like texture belt with, like a brown croc belt? Plain shoes in a similar colour?

Thanks!
 

aphite

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QUICK QUESTION:
I'm a J.Crew shopper through and through > I have lots of well fitted chinos and button-downs that I wear with AE brogues/chukkas/Alden boots. I'm upgrading my wardrobe and am looking for opinions on where to start looking for nicer/cleaner, but still stylish pants and shirts. I'm not crazy about J.Crew's selection on this front, so I'm trying to branch out. I feel confident that I can find good sportcoats and I know shoes well, but I'm at a loss as to where to go for the next level of business casual (barf) attire that fits well, is versatile and understated but stylish. Thanks gents.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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They're crease marks and I wouldn't consider them a big deal unless they were a lot bigger or deeper. It's inevitable that you will get them across the instep of the shoe where it flexes as you walk.
+1. Especially on cheap Cole Haans.
 

mkarim

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Patch or flap pockets would be roughly equal in appropriateness. Hacking pockets are more appropriate on jackets with sporting origins.


Are slanted/hacking pockets the same as crescent pockets.
 

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