Advice on a versatile wool navy blazer

[gandhetc]

Hi everyone,

I've pretty much only ever shopped at Gieves and Hawkes but I don't live in the UK anymore, and they don't have much of a web presence, so I've started to look around and I'm am enjoying the clothing I've bought at New and Lingwood recently, and I am now in the market for a new navy blazer.

I've never really bought just jackets, but I am finding sometimes I'm a little over dressed in a suit so I'm now heading in this direction.

I like the look of this from N&L https://www.newandlingwood.com/new-arrivals/jackets/navy-single-breasted-wool-cashmere-twill-jacket ...

Is this a good buy?

Also, I'm not sure about what twill means and the significance of deconstructed, etc., in the grander scheme of things, so I'd like some advice please on what would be the most versatile wool navy blazer for around this price of £700 and any other ideas.

My style is basically English, so Gieves and Hawkes and Jermyn Street, etc. I don't really buy outside of this.

Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[Father Style]

The link is all screwy for me, but you can get a decent wool navy blazer from just about anywhere for that price. I have jackets from Brooks Brothers, Charles Tyrwhitt, and Suit Supply and they’re all perfectly serviceable and under the price you mentioned. The key is finding a company whose jackets fit you the best.
Twill is just a type of weave for the fabric. It creates a very subtle slanted ribbed appearance that’s hardly noticeable unless you’re looking closely at it. Jeans and other cotton pants are commonly twill. It’s a common weave for jackets and suits. Deconstructed means that there is very little “stuff” in the jacket like padding, canvassing, or lining. Basically it means that the jacket will probably fit more like a cardigan since it won’t have the structure of a regular jacket. If you’re a fan of an English style then deconstructed might not be up your alley. A deconstructed jacket has a more casual appearance than a more structured jacket. Some people like that and some don’t.

FatherStyle.com

 

[gandhetc]

Dear Father Style,

Many thanks for your reply.

What does "all screwy for me" mean? Did the link not work?

I haven't heard of Suit Supply, and I'm just about to check them out.

I've heard of Charles Tyrwhitt but I never really explored them as I generally only popped into Gieves and Hawkes when I lived in London. Will look into.

Basically, I liked the history of Gieves and Hawkes, military and adventure, especially when they did the exhibition of the Antarctic expedition. They also fitted me really well. So I got hooked. Up until then, I bought my suits/coats from Aquascutum which were slightly better value for money but I just liked the identity of Gieves and Hawkes. Anyway, the mess Gieves and Hawkes got into and lack of internet presence for their SS24 collection has left me a little high and dry so hence starting to gravitate toward New and Lingwood as it sort of matches what I liked from Gieves and Hawkes.

Regarding your point about fit, I've never tried a jacket on from New and Lingwood, so it may not fit well, I will be thinking about this when I visit them over the holiday period. I might actually like the more casual fit of the deconstructed jacket as it will then stand out as not just a suit jacket, and cross that bridge I'm looking for when on more informal client visit, opera or drinks at friends.

I looks also at Daks jackets, they have a nice blue blazer but its two-button incarnation is sold out. This however looked more structured with brass buttons which looks quite regimental and I'm not sure if I want to look that formal.

Anyway thanks for the main takeaway — fit. Quite important when you think about it.

 

[othertravel]

What’s your budget? That will help determine the level of quality you’re looking for.

N&L is decent, but my understanding is that their tailoring is half canvas?

 

[gandhetc]

What’s your budget? That will help determine the level of quality you’re looking for.

N&L is decent, but my understanding is that their tailoring is half canvas?

Thanks for the reply othertravel,

I'm quite frugal to be honest, but when it comes to business attire, client meetings/jollies I've always appreciated that a well-made suit, shirt, tie, shoes get noticed/appreciated. So, I've got used to paying up to 800 GBP for a suit, 200 GBP for a shirt, etc., normally exclusively from G&H and I really enjoy wearing these clothes and how they fit and feel.

But this buying more for slightly more casual look in a quasi-formal setting is a new world for me. For the blazer I would pay for the N&L one I linked in the original posting if it fitted well — it's just under 700 GBP, so that's a budget I guess.

I got some Thomas Mason fabric shirts off N&L for Christmas, and love them ... so the experience with N&L is going well but I just don't know if this is the all purpose blazer I'm looking for to start building out my signature pieces for this smart but less over the top formal look.

 

[othertravel]

That’s good to know. N&L does have some nice pieces, and I know that they also offer seasonal markdowns.

I’d also recommend you check out Spier and Mackay. The have SCs with half canvas construction at a lower price point than N&L.

They also have a good reputation on the forum:

Navy Blazers & Sportcoats | SPIER & MACKAY

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com

 

[gandhetc]

Thanks for all the advice. I went for the blazer at New and Lingwood in the end, wore it out to la boheme on Friday and felt very smart. Very happy with purchase.

I also had a chance to pop into Gieves and Hawkes and see their SS collection and picked up a shirt there. It's nice to see them back on their feet.