36R to a 36S

[muchisgiven]

I wear a 36S short suit. Sometimes it's difficult to find that size, and I mostly fine 36R. I was wondering is it safe to take a 36R suit to a tailor and have it cut as a 36S. I've been noticing that my jackets are a bit too long, and it looks even more awkward when I have the sleeves altered.

So I was wondering if there is anybody here that has had this done before?

 

[Tomasso]

Originally Posted by muchisgiven

I've been noticing that my jackets are a bit too long

Post some photos.

 

[TheFoo]

Without seeing photos per Tomasso's suggestion, it's generally true that up to half-an-inch can be taken off the jacket's length before the balance is too obvciously thrown off. Thus, right off the bat, I'd think it unlikely that you could make a 36R into an S easily.

Is MTM not an option? I'm pretty damned short myself and MTM was my salvation.

 

[muchisgiven]

Please forgive, but I don't know what MTM is? I'm a newbie to these forums.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by muchisgiven

Please forgive, but I don't know what MTM is? I'm a newbie to these forums.

Oh sorry, didn't mean to be opaque. MTM = made-to-measure.

Many makers offer this option for a small surcharge over the off-the-rack price. Typically, they take your measurements and adjust a pre-set pattern to fit you. The adjustments are made pre-production so that the garment is actually manufactured as according to your personal dimensions. Hence, the shoulders and length should be correct at the very least, and the pockets and buttons will be placed properly, which would not be the case if you had the garment altered post-production.

Different MTM programs offer fewer or more adjustment options. Oxxford, for example, offers a great deal of customization.

I'm very short, 5'4, and MTM Oxxford worked wonders for me. It's not perfect, but the jacket I am wearing in my blog is a MTM Oxxford--at least it fits!

Note: there is a distinction between MTM and bespoke (true custom). While MTM is the pre-production adjustment of a preset pattern, bespoke is the creation of a pattern from scratch. There are different pitfalls to each, but potentially bespoke offers the better fit. Some will argue that bespoke is always better. Some will argue that bespoke is only worth it when its top bespoke, etc.

Both however, are incredible improvements over OTR. Post-production alterations on OTR garments are often less than ideal in result, and often not particularly cost-effective.

 

[TheFoo]

Oh forgot to mention, with regard to my jacket. My chest measures 36.5-37 inches, but my waist is 29 inches and I'm very short. A 36S jacket goes halfway down my hips! So, you can see how my MTM jacket really did save the day.

 

[vonwotan]

Before buying bespoke clothig I had good luck with MTM from Ralph Lauren. If you wait for his Trunk Shows (I hope this is still the case) not only was their no surcharge, but the jackets and suits were sold at a discount. I am quite short and thin, but they had a 35S pattern that they cut and finished for me. There were some of the best MTM coats and suits I have purchased.

In the end however, with an odd geometry - very narrow waist and relatively wide but sloped shoulders - not evenly sloped, and thighs a bit wider than usual for my waist size, usw. Bespoke is the only way I can buy something that will fit and wear well.

 

[muchisgiven]

Your jacket looks great. That's exactly the fit that I would like to have, especially when wearing slim suits.

I'm definitely going to look into MTM...I guess the question that I had on my mind is would it be possible for a tailor to take up the sleeves under the arm. I notice that there is some extra space there, and if that can be eliminated the jacket would move up about an 1/2 inch to an inch and that would be perfect.

I'll try to post some pictures here...later on today

P.S. I love the blog

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by muchisgiven

I guess the question that I had on my mind is would it be possible for a tailor to take up the sleeves under the arm. I notice that there is some extra space there, and if that can be eliminated the jacket would move up about an 1/2 inch to an inch and that would be perfect.

If you're trying to bring up the jacket at the armhole, I would think that would do some funny things to the balance: the length at your sides will be shorter relative to the length in front and back. I'm not even sure such an alteration is possible. I have heard of bringing in the jacket at the shoulder seam, but that constitutes major surgery and will (1) also do funny things to the balance, and (2) cost a fortune.

A reduction in the chest of the jacket may get rid of excess fabric under the arms, but you can't do it too much and it won't shorten the jacket for you. For the latter, you probably need to bring it up at the hem by half-an-inch or so.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did this jacket cost you? It might make more sense to sell it and start anew with a MTM order.

 

[muchisgiven]

Only 300. It's a Zara suit...the jacket isn't actually that bad...but I'm just a perfectionist...and I like things to fit a certain way. I was thinking about taking an old suit that I don't really wear as a sample...just to see how it will come out.

 

[a tailor]

imho better to resell the suit. take that money an add to it what you would pay to do the alterations. then add a little more and get a made to measure.
most major brands do m2m. this is done through your retail store.
you get to pick the jacket style, the pant style,and the cloth,
there is no charge for any alterations that may occur.

 

[phooi]

I agree with a tailor. Sell your jacket and buy something that fits or go MTM. I'm surprised that the Zara jackets didn't fit you. I was at Zara today and tried on one of their 36 and it fit fairly well and I'm a little shorter than mafoofan...

Mafoofan -- great blog. can't wait to read part 5. How many MTM jackets do you own? And if you don't mind me asking, how much was the Oxxford? Thanks!

 

[muchisgiven]

Actually Zara suits do fit...I just wanted the jacket to be a bit shorter, but it's really that much of a big deal to be honest. I usually just have the sleeves taken up, the sides taken in, the pants leg tapered, and I'm good to go.

I'm gonna post pictures...so that I can get an opinion from you guys

 

[Tomasso]

Seriously, if you have no photos, we can't give you any quality advise.