tweedydon
Distinguished Member
- Joined
- May 18, 2009
- Messages
- 4,590
- Reaction score
- 107
I don't use the term "grail" lightly, but this thread features several suits that are utterly deserving of the name--including a trio of absolutely gorgeous London-made mid-century suits (tweed, and three-piece worsted!) on which I have full provenance. (They were made for a friend of the family, who was an officer in the very upper-class Blues and Royals regiment of the British army, and who then rose to become a very senior civil servant; the three-piece suits were for his London job, the tweed for running his estate on the Scottish Borders.) I also have another three-piece suit, two beautiful Oxxfords, several 3/2 sacks, and more!
A veritable cornucopia of sartorial delights!
As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING WITHIN THE CONUS; International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost.
Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!
Please PM with interest and offers!
PLEASE NOTE THAT SUITS (1) THROUGH (3) ARE FROM THE SAME GENTLEMAN; I WOULD BE VERY HAPPY TO ACCEPT AN OFFER ON ALL THREE!
1) GRAIL! London-Made Mid-Century Worsted Three-Piece Suit.
SOLD
This is absolutely astounding; the stuff that Ralph lauren's dreams are made of! This suit was made for a friend of the family who started his career as an officer in the exclusive Blues and Royals Guards regiment of the British army, and who then became a very senior civil servant in the UK Government. In retirement he ran his family's estate (mainly sheep, some arable; lots of good rough shooting and some decent fishing) on the Scottish Borders. His was a life well lived, and his suits (which I acquired form his son for presentation here) are a beautiful reflection of this.
Although this was made in the late 1950s it presents as if it were cut last week; it's in absolutely excellent condition. It's hard to know where to start with a suit of this timeless quality, but let's begin with the most noticeable thing: The cloth. Thick, heavy, and sturdy, this is worsted as you'd imagine a worsted chosen by a member of the British gentry to be--this is NOT the thin wool of today's suits, but a cloth that's designed to be worn in the underheated haunts of Whitehall for decades without showing any sign of wear. Had George Smiley had a better tailor and a more country background, he'd have gone for this! This suit is a beautiful dark, dark charcoal, and the patterning is as special as its heft; a miniature herringbone, alternated with the wonderful weave miniature English Brick--tiny, ting rectangles like bricks in an English wall. Both these weaves are so small, however, that you can only see their details by looking closely--the cloth presents at first sight as being solid charcoal, with just a hint of complexity.
The tailoring matches the quality of the cloth. This suit is, as you'd expect, fully canvassed. It is also fully lined, and impeccably tailored, with as much care and attention shown to ensuring that the lining is as beautifully sculpted as the exterior; these suit features fully shaping seams in the lining, rather than just attaching it as is usual, even with suits as good as Oxxford. The suit is a beautiful example of mid-Century British tailoring; a three button front, shaped and padded shoulders in the British military style (as you'd expect for a former Guards officer), and darted for an elegant silhouette. The cuffs feature four buttons, all with elegant finished (but non-working) buttonholes. The jacket is unvented.
The vest/waistcoat features four fully functional front pockets, as well as two small vents at the side seams, for ease of movement. It has a fully adjustable back, and is fully lined. The trousers are knife-pleated with a button fly front. They lack belt loops, but have adjustable sides as was common in bespoke clothing in England in the 1950s. The adjustable sides work perfectly. They are feature a buttoned ticket pocket on the seam. The cut and shaping of these trousers is exquisite.
This feature is simply filled with handwork throughout. There is no maker's tags included, but i can tell you that it was made over the course of several weeks by a tailor at the Army and Navy store in London c.1959.
This suit is a wonderful rarity! Moreover, it's in excellent condition--stunning condition, given its age! There is, of course, some discoloration to the cream lining of the vest and the trousers, commensurate with age, but no other flaw at all.
Give its beauty, quality, rarity, and highly desirable size, how about just $175, OR LOWER OFFER, boxed, shipped, and insured in the CONUS? Given the quality of this suit, this really is an absolute steal, especially since three-piece suits of far lower quality than this were fetching in excess of $1000 on eBay last year.
Measurements:
Jacket:
Chest: 19 3/4
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 1/2
Length: 31
Trousers:
Waist: 15 3/4 (with 2 1/2" to let out)
Inseam: 32 (+1 1/2) with 1 3/4" cuff.
Vest:
Width across cloth: 18
Length: 24 1/4 (tip to tip)
2) GRAIL! London-Made Three-piece Worsted Suit from the Army & Navy Store, London, SW1.
This suit was made for, and owned by, the same gentleman for whom the suit above was made--and it's of precisely the same astounding quality, and in precisely the same wonderful condition.
The cloth of this suit is lighter weight than that of the first suit, above; it would still be described as a heavy cloth in modern terms, though. It is a solid charcoal, and, like the suit above, is a beautiful example of mid-century British tailoring. It features a three-button front, darting, military shoulders, and four button cuffs. The jacket is unvented. It is fully lined, and fully canvassed; as with (1), above, this lining in this suit has been applied to ensure that it conforms to the shape of the jacket, as has been shaped, darted, and seamed accordingly. the jacket is unvented.
The vest has an adjustable back, four fully functional front pockets, and is fully lined. It is unvented. The trousers are pleated and beautifully cut and shaped. They feature buttons for braces (suspenders) on the exterior, and hnece lack belt loops They have a button fly.
As is to be expected, this suit features vast amounts of handwork throughout. It is in absolutely excellent condition.
Again, given the beauty, rarity, and provenance of this suit, it's an absolute bargain at just $175, OR LOWER OFFER, boxed, shipped, and insured in the CONUS. Again, this really is an absolute steal.
Measurements:
Jacket:
Chest: 20 1/4
Sleeve: 26 5/8 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/8
Length: 30 3/4
Trousers:
Waist: 15 1/2 (+2 to let out)
Length: 32 (+1) with 1 3/4 cuffs.
Vest:
Width, across the cloth: 16
Length: 23 1/4, tip to tip.
3) GRAIL! Heavy Tweed Suit from the Army & Navy Store, London, SW1. Dated 1957. ASTOUNDING condition, and absolutely beautiful!
SOLD
This is stunning! As you'd expect from mid-century British tailoring, this is cut from very, very seriously heavy tweed indeed. It's unlikely to be Keeper's tweed, since Keeper's tends to be monocoloured and unpatterned, but it might be--and if it is, this would be a seriously rare jacket indeed, owing to coloured and patterned Keeper's being the province of special (and highly expensive) ordering.
As with the first two suits listed here, this was the property of an English gentleman who had this made for him by his tailor at the Army and Navy Store in Chelsea, London; this suit was made in 1957, and has the cutter identified on it also, as well as the name of the chap who ordered it. The twee is, as I mentioned above, a very, very serious tweed indeed, being very heavy and also likely thornproof. While it is unlikely to be Keeper's tweed, it has the same heavy-duty hand as Keeper's does--this will last for ever with just minimal care. This is tweed as you want it to be! It's a beautiful, dusty green mottled with sky blue, all heathered together, and when you look closer you see that it has a beautiful subtle and complex windowpane overcheck of skyblue woven into the heathery fabric. You'll need to click on my thumbnails to get an idea of this--it's much more beautiful in person.
This jacket was made to be worn on its owner's estate in the Scottish Borders. It is fully canvassed, and fully lined, with the lining of this applied with the same care as that of the other two suits, above. The interior pockets are slightly slanted, for ease of access. It features twin vents at the rear, and single button cuffs, as is common on British gentry country tweeds. The trousers are pleated, with the shaping and cut of them being beautifully and carefully done by hand. They feature a side adjuster, buttons for braces, and lack belt loops. feature a zipped fly.
This suit is in absolutely excellent condition, with two minor flaws. The interior lining of the trousers is stained, commensurate with age and use, and there is some loose stitching in the lining of the jacket by the rear right-hand vent----a fix of a few moments for a dry-cleaner tailor, as it's on a seam.
Suits of this quality and provenance are very, very rare indeed--and so, like its brothers, above, this is a steal at just $175, OR LOWER OFFER, boxed, shipped, and insured in CONUS!
Measurements:
Chest: 20 1/8
Sleeve: 26 3/4 (+2 1/2)
Shoulder: 17 1/2
Length: 30 7/8
Waist: 15 1/2 (+2 1/2)
Inseam: 32 1/2 (+1) with 1 3/4" cuff.
4) GRAIL! GORGEOUS Oxxford "Fawnskin" classic charcoal suit
ON HOLD
This is absolutely beautiful! This suit is Oxxford's "Manhattan" model, and is constructed from lovely, soft Oxxford Fawnskin cloth--so soft and with such a lovely hand and drape it might at first touch appear to be a cashmere blend. The suit is a classic and versatile charcoal grey. It is a contemporary two button front model, with daring and four button cuffs. It is fully canvassed, and half lined. It has a single centre vent. The trousers are pleated and cuffed.
This suit is in absolutely excellent condition; the sole flaw is a red cross on the interior tag to prevent return to Neiman Marcus.
Asking just $95, or lower offer, boxed, shipped, and insured.
Tagged a 44T, this measures:
Chest: 23
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 20 1/8
Length: 33
Waist: 19
Inseam: 33 1/4 (+1) with 1 1/2 cuff.
5) BEAUTIFUL & Classic IVY 3/2 suit by The Princeton Clothing Co. in miniature grey herringbone.
This is an absolutely beautiful suit! Made for The Princeton Clothing Co., which was the runner-up Ivy company to the likes of Langrock, Hilton, Royce, and The English Shop, this beautiful suit is cut from a classic and versatile mid-grey cloth in miniature herringbone. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and features a lovely 3/2 lapel. It is also subtly darted--unusual for a 3/2 jacket--and has four button cuffs. It has a single centre vent. The trousers are flat-front and uncuffed.
This suit was Union Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.
Asking just $75, or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 22
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 32 1/2
Waist: 18 3/4
Inseam: 30 1/2 (+2 1/2)
6) GRAIL! Three-Piece Suit in miniature herringbone.
SOLD
This is absolutely beautiful! Cut from a classic and lovely grey-blue herringbone cloth, this wonderful three-piece suit is fully canvassed and fully lined in a lovely complementary and vibrant sky blue lining. It features three button cuffs, and a single centre vent. It is beautifully cut with a contemporary two button front and subtle darting. The vest features four fully functional front pockets, is fully lined (also in blue), and has a fully adjustable back. The trousers are flat front, uncuffed, and feature belt loops.
This suit carries no maker's labels, but it was clearly made in the USA.
It is in excellent condition, except that the three buttons on the left hand cuff are all snapped in half, and the front button of the vest has suffered a similar fate. But these minor flaws are very easy and cheap to fix.
Given the desirability of three piece suits, especially in such a classic patterning and colourway, this is a steal at just $115, or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 19 3/4
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
length: 32
Waist: 16 (+2)
Inseam: 34 1/4 (+2 3/4)
Vest width: 17
Vest length: 25
7) Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece 3/2 sack suit in Classic Charcoal with Cream Pinstripe
SOLD
The top of the line of Brooks' OTR offerings, this lovely suit is a traditional 3/2 sack with a lovely lapel roll. It is fully canvassed and half-lined, and features two button cuffs. It also has a single centre vent. It is cur from a classical charcoal cloth with a cream pinstripe. The trousers are flat front and uncuffed; they feature both buttons for braces and belt loops It was Union made in the USA..
Slightly rumpled from storage, this suit is in Very Good/Excellent condition.
Asking just $55, or offer.
Tagged 45R, this measures:
Chest: 22 7/8
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 30 3/4
Waist: 19 1/2
Inseam: 28 (+1/2)
8) GRAIL! Oxxford Super Worsted Suit in Classic Grey Glen Plaid.
This is absolutely wonderful! Fully canvassed and half-lined, this beautiful suit is cut from a wonderful, heavier Super Worsted cloth, that gives it a beautiful hand and drape--and is sure to wear like iron. The colourway is also lovely--a medley of classic charcoals and midgreys in a classic glen plaid pattern. This is a lovely, lovely suit! It features a single centre vent, and four button cuffs. The trousers feature belt loops as well as buttons for braces (suspenders); they are also cuffed. They feature a very small and neat pleat that's about 1 1/2" vertical at the first belt loop on either side, for shaping.
The tailoring is, as you'd expect from Oxxford, excellent. This is from the "Heritage" line. It is in excellent condition.
Asking just $95, or offer.
Tagged a 48T, this is smaller, measuring:
Chest: 23
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 191/8
Length: 32 1/2
Waist: 19 1/4
Inseam: 29 (+1), with 1 1/2" cuffs.
9) Southwick 3/2 sack in overchecked grey.
This is a lovely and classic 3/2 sack suit by Southwick in a lovely and unusual patterning and colourway. The base is a classic midgrey, and the suit presents as such from a distance, but on close inspection it is clear that is has a very subtle overcheck; horizontal lines of light blue, and vertical lines of red, betweenm two lines of cream thread. My pictures really do not do this suit justice!
It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and features a lovely lapel roll. It has a single centre vent and three button cuffs. The trousers are flat front and cuffed. It was made in the USA.
This suit is in excellent condition.
Asking just $69, or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 32
Waist: 17 7/8
Inseam: 30 1/4 (+1/2), with 1 1/2 cuff.
10) Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece 3/2 sack in dark navy
This is another lovely suit from the top of Brooks Brothers' OTR line! Cut as a classic Ivy 3/2 sack, this lovely suit is cut from a mid-weight dark, dark navy cloth. It's fully canvassed and half-lined, and features a single centre vent and two button cuffs. It features pick stitching on the lapels. The trousers are flat-front and cuffed. This suit was, of course, Union Made in the USA.
This suit is slightly rumpled from storage, and so is in conservatively Very Good/Excellent condition.
Asking just $65, or offer.
Measurements:
The now defunct size 46ML, this measures:
Chest: 23 1/2
Sleeve: 24 (+ 1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
length: 31 1/4
Waist: 20 3/4
Inseam: 27 1/2 (+1/2), with 1 1/2" cuff.
11) CLASSIC Brooks Brothers "346" 3/2 sack in miniature grey herringbone!
This is beautiful! Made as part of Brooks Brothers' old-school "346" line (not to be confused with the current outlet version of "346") this is cut as a classic Ivy 3/2 sack. It's half-canvassed and half-lined, and features the traditional two button cuffs. It also has a single centre vent, and a lovely lapel roll. The trousers are flat-front and cuffed. This suit was Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.
Asking $65, or offer.
Tagged a 48ML, this measures:
Chest: 24 1/4
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 31 3/4
Waist: 20 1/2
Inseam: 28 (+1), with 1 1/2" cuff.
12) CLASSIC Ivy 3/2 sack by OLD SCHOOL JAB
This is lovely, and NOT to be confused with the quality of JAB's current offerings! Cut as a traditional 3/2 sack in a classic dark navy pinstripe, this lovely suit is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has a single centre vent, a lovely lapel roll, and two button cuffs. The quality of the tailoring easily rivals that of Brooks' old-style "346" line; this is by no means a recent JAB offering! The trousers are flat front and uncuffed. It was Union Made in the USA. This beautiful suit is in absolutely EXCELLENT condition; it might even be unworn.
Asking just $65, or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 23 3/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 29
Waist: 17 7/8
Inseam: 26 1/2 (+1 1/2)
13) H. Freeman Ivy Two Button Sack in Classic Grey
This is that trad. rarity, a two button sack! This suit is half-canvassed and half-lined. It is cut as a sack, but has a contemporary two-button front, rather than a 3/2 closure. It has a single centre vent and two button cuffs. It's cut from a lovely mid-weight cloth in classic and versatile grey. The trousers are flat-front and cuffed.
This suit does has a small mark on the left-hand sleeve, as shown, which is faint and might come out with dry cleaning. As such, it is in in very Good condition, and hence I'm asking
only $40, or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Tagged 46L; Measurements:
Chest: 23
Sleeve: 26 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 19
length: 30 1/2
Waist: 19 1/2
Inseam: 30 1/2 (+1 1/4), with 2" cuff.
14) Brooks Brothers old-school "346" 3/2 sack in charcoal grey
Another lovely classic Ivy suit from Brooks Brothers, this is a 3/2 sack from their very, very good and traditional "346" line--the old-school version, not to be confused with the current outlet line with the same designation. This lovely classic suit is in charcoal, and is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has two button cuffs, a single centre vent, and was, of course, made in the USA. The trousers are flat-front and cuffed. With the exception of a small wrinkle on the lapel, as shown, this suit is in excellent condition.
Asking just $50, or offer.
Measurements:
Tagged a 42.
Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+1)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 31
Waist: 18 1/4
Inseam: 30 1/2 (+1/2), with 1 1/2 cuff.
PREVIOUSLY LISTED:
15) NTW Made in Italy Gino Valentino wool-silk suit.
This is by no means the nicest suit you'll see here, but it is NWT, and is decent--certainly very decent at my price! It's a more fashionable three button front and is unvented, in Flusser-approved style. The fabric is 91% wool 9% silk, and is reasonable quality--it was apparently woven in Italy, where the suit was made. The trousers are flat-front and cuffed, with the pockets set on the leg, not the seam. This suit is fully lined, and features pick stitching on the lining, as shown. This is NWT, and so is in superb condition. It was made in Italy, and is a very good deal at
just $30, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Tagged confusingly 38EU/32US, this measures:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 23 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 29 3/4
Inseam: 27 1/2 (+1) with 1 1/2 cuff.
Waist: 16 1/2
16) Brooks Brothers "Madison" 1818 pinstripe suit.
SOLD
A lovely, classic suit! The is a charcoal with cream pinstripes. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and is cut as a contemporary two button front with subtle darting and a centre vent. It was Union made in the USA. It features four button cuffs. The trousers are pleated and cuffed. This suit has a small smudge on the top of the left shoulder, as well as a smudge on the front and one on the trousers; these are from dry cleaning detergent and will almost certainly be easily removed with dry cleaning; given this, though, it is in Very Good condition, and hence is just
$35, boxed and shipped in the CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 20 1/4
Sleeve: 23 3/4 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 29 1/8
Inseam: 28 1/2 (+1) with 1 1/2 cuff.
Waist: 15 3/4
17) Double Breasted Grey Flannel Suit by Boss.
Boss gets very little love here--and nor should it, at full retail. But if you liek double breasted suits--or you'd like to expand your wardrobe to include one--then this is for you! Cut from a dark dove-grey wool flannel this lovely suit is half-canvassed and fully lined. It is unvented, in Flusser-approved style, and has jetted pockets. The lapels have pick stitching. The trousers are pleated, and have pockets off the seams. This suit is in excellent condition, and is an absolute bargain at just
$35 boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/4
Sleeve: 26 1/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 30 1/2
Inseam: 32 1/2 with 1 1/4 cuff.
Waist: 19 1/4
18) STRANGELY APPEALING brown Double-Breasted suit.
This suit wouldn't normally be the sort of thing I like--but this is strangely appealing! It's a double-breasted suit with peak lapels in a mocha brown cloth. It's well cut and seems to be half-canvassed; it's fully lined. It's darted, and unvented, as Flusser approves of, and has four buttons cuffs. The trousers are pleated. It's well-made, and very strangely appealing.
It would also be the ideal suit paired with a black shirt, white tie, and a fedora for a gangster costume at Hallowe'en! Or else you could just wear it as it is. It's weird, but weirdly attractive, too.
You can enjoy the strangeness of this for just $20, or offer, boxed and shipped in the CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 32
Inseam: 31 (+1/2) with 1 1/4 cuff.
Waist: 18
19) BEAUTIFUL Southwick 3/2 sack Suit in a subtle Fall glen plaid
This is another wonderful suit! Cut from a lovely dark grey glen plaid cloth with a lovely hand and drape, this is a classic 3/2 sack suit. It is fully canvassed and fully lined, and features a single centre vent. The trousers are flat-front. The jacket's lining is set off with contrasting yellow piping. This was made by Southwick, one of the great American clothiers, in the USA.
The jacket does have some minor shine to the elbows from wear, but this really doesn't detract from it--in fact, it adds character! because of this, though, this beauty is in Very Good condition, and hence I'm asking just $29, or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Tagged a 43, this measures:
Chest: 22 3/4
Sleeve: 23 3/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 31
Inseam: 28 1/4 (+1/2) with 1 1/2 cuff.
Waist: 19 1/2
20) Damaged Southwick pinstripe suit
This was a lovely suit, and with some repair could still be a wardrobe workhorse. It's a dark grey with pinstriping, half-canvassed, with two button cuffs and a half-lining and a single vent. But it has quite a bit of damage. The lining is torn at the hem on both sides and at the shoulder at the top, two of the cuffs buttons are missing, and the hem of the jacket has discolouration along its length, which might or might not come out with dry cleaning, as do both cuffs. Given these problems, this is close to free, being just
$15, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 22
Sleeve: 26 (+1)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 32
Inseam: 30 (+1)
Waist: 17 1/2
21) BEAUTIFUL H. Freeman 3/2 sack grey pinstripe suit.
Another beautiful suit by H. Freeman of Philadelphia! Made in the USA< this lovely 3/2 sack has a lovely lapel roll. It is cut from a classic grey cloth with cream pinstriping, with a regular interjection of a single thread of dark red to accent this. This is half-canvassed, and has a single centre vent. It features two button cuffs and is half-lined. The trousers are flay front. This suit is in absolutely excellent condition!
Asking just $45, or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Tagged a 44L, this measures:
Chest: 22
Sleeve: 25 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30 1/2
Inseam: 26 (+2 3/4)
Waist: 19
22) Brooks Brothers "Makers" classic grey suit
A classic grey suit, the wardrobe staple! This is from Brooks Brothers, and is a contemporary two-button front model with subtle darting. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has a single centre vent. The trousers are pleated.
This does has a couple of superficial white marks on the lapel and right hand front, but these will easily come out with dry cleaning. Because of them, however, this is only in Very Good/Excellent condition, and hence is
just $29, or offer.
Tagged a 44, this measures:
Chest: 22 3/4
Sleeve: 22 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 20
Length: 31 1/4
Inseam: 26 3/4 (+2 1/4)
Waist: 19
A veritable cornucopia of sartorial delights!
As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING WITHIN THE CONUS; International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost.
Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!
Please PM with interest and offers!
PLEASE NOTE THAT SUITS (1) THROUGH (3) ARE FROM THE SAME GENTLEMAN; I WOULD BE VERY HAPPY TO ACCEPT AN OFFER ON ALL THREE!
1) GRAIL! London-Made Mid-Century Worsted Three-Piece Suit.
SOLD
This is absolutely astounding; the stuff that Ralph lauren's dreams are made of! This suit was made for a friend of the family who started his career as an officer in the exclusive Blues and Royals Guards regiment of the British army, and who then became a very senior civil servant in the UK Government. In retirement he ran his family's estate (mainly sheep, some arable; lots of good rough shooting and some decent fishing) on the Scottish Borders. His was a life well lived, and his suits (which I acquired form his son for presentation here) are a beautiful reflection of this.
Although this was made in the late 1950s it presents as if it were cut last week; it's in absolutely excellent condition. It's hard to know where to start with a suit of this timeless quality, but let's begin with the most noticeable thing: The cloth. Thick, heavy, and sturdy, this is worsted as you'd imagine a worsted chosen by a member of the British gentry to be--this is NOT the thin wool of today's suits, but a cloth that's designed to be worn in the underheated haunts of Whitehall for decades without showing any sign of wear. Had George Smiley had a better tailor and a more country background, he'd have gone for this! This suit is a beautiful dark, dark charcoal, and the patterning is as special as its heft; a miniature herringbone, alternated with the wonderful weave miniature English Brick--tiny, ting rectangles like bricks in an English wall. Both these weaves are so small, however, that you can only see their details by looking closely--the cloth presents at first sight as being solid charcoal, with just a hint of complexity.
The tailoring matches the quality of the cloth. This suit is, as you'd expect, fully canvassed. It is also fully lined, and impeccably tailored, with as much care and attention shown to ensuring that the lining is as beautifully sculpted as the exterior; these suit features fully shaping seams in the lining, rather than just attaching it as is usual, even with suits as good as Oxxford. The suit is a beautiful example of mid-Century British tailoring; a three button front, shaped and padded shoulders in the British military style (as you'd expect for a former Guards officer), and darted for an elegant silhouette. The cuffs feature four buttons, all with elegant finished (but non-working) buttonholes. The jacket is unvented.
The vest/waistcoat features four fully functional front pockets, as well as two small vents at the side seams, for ease of movement. It has a fully adjustable back, and is fully lined. The trousers are knife-pleated with a button fly front. They lack belt loops, but have adjustable sides as was common in bespoke clothing in England in the 1950s. The adjustable sides work perfectly. They are feature a buttoned ticket pocket on the seam. The cut and shaping of these trousers is exquisite.
This feature is simply filled with handwork throughout. There is no maker's tags included, but i can tell you that it was made over the course of several weeks by a tailor at the Army and Navy store in London c.1959.
This suit is a wonderful rarity! Moreover, it's in excellent condition--stunning condition, given its age! There is, of course, some discoloration to the cream lining of the vest and the trousers, commensurate with age, but no other flaw at all.
Give its beauty, quality, rarity, and highly desirable size, how about just $175, OR LOWER OFFER, boxed, shipped, and insured in the CONUS? Given the quality of this suit, this really is an absolute steal, especially since three-piece suits of far lower quality than this were fetching in excess of $1000 on eBay last year.
Measurements:
Jacket:
Chest: 19 3/4
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 1/2
Length: 31
Trousers:
Waist: 15 3/4 (with 2 1/2" to let out)
Inseam: 32 (+1 1/2) with 1 3/4" cuff.
Vest:
Width across cloth: 18
Length: 24 1/4 (tip to tip)
2) GRAIL! London-Made Three-piece Worsted Suit from the Army & Navy Store, London, SW1.
This suit was made for, and owned by, the same gentleman for whom the suit above was made--and it's of precisely the same astounding quality, and in precisely the same wonderful condition.
The cloth of this suit is lighter weight than that of the first suit, above; it would still be described as a heavy cloth in modern terms, though. It is a solid charcoal, and, like the suit above, is a beautiful example of mid-century British tailoring. It features a three-button front, darting, military shoulders, and four button cuffs. The jacket is unvented. It is fully lined, and fully canvassed; as with (1), above, this lining in this suit has been applied to ensure that it conforms to the shape of the jacket, as has been shaped, darted, and seamed accordingly. the jacket is unvented.
The vest has an adjustable back, four fully functional front pockets, and is fully lined. It is unvented. The trousers are pleated and beautifully cut and shaped. They feature buttons for braces (suspenders) on the exterior, and hnece lack belt loops They have a button fly.
As is to be expected, this suit features vast amounts of handwork throughout. It is in absolutely excellent condition.
Again, given the beauty, rarity, and provenance of this suit, it's an absolute bargain at just $175, OR LOWER OFFER, boxed, shipped, and insured in the CONUS. Again, this really is an absolute steal.
Measurements:
Jacket:
Chest: 20 1/4
Sleeve: 26 5/8 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/8
Length: 30 3/4
Trousers:
Waist: 15 1/2 (+2 to let out)
Length: 32 (+1) with 1 3/4 cuffs.
Vest:
Width, across the cloth: 16
Length: 23 1/4, tip to tip.
3) GRAIL! Heavy Tweed Suit from the Army & Navy Store, London, SW1. Dated 1957. ASTOUNDING condition, and absolutely beautiful!
SOLD
This is stunning! As you'd expect from mid-century British tailoring, this is cut from very, very seriously heavy tweed indeed. It's unlikely to be Keeper's tweed, since Keeper's tends to be monocoloured and unpatterned, but it might be--and if it is, this would be a seriously rare jacket indeed, owing to coloured and patterned Keeper's being the province of special (and highly expensive) ordering.
As with the first two suits listed here, this was the property of an English gentleman who had this made for him by his tailor at the Army and Navy Store in Chelsea, London; this suit was made in 1957, and has the cutter identified on it also, as well as the name of the chap who ordered it. The twee is, as I mentioned above, a very, very serious tweed indeed, being very heavy and also likely thornproof. While it is unlikely to be Keeper's tweed, it has the same heavy-duty hand as Keeper's does--this will last for ever with just minimal care. This is tweed as you want it to be! It's a beautiful, dusty green mottled with sky blue, all heathered together, and when you look closer you see that it has a beautiful subtle and complex windowpane overcheck of skyblue woven into the heathery fabric. You'll need to click on my thumbnails to get an idea of this--it's much more beautiful in person.
This jacket was made to be worn on its owner's estate in the Scottish Borders. It is fully canvassed, and fully lined, with the lining of this applied with the same care as that of the other two suits, above. The interior pockets are slightly slanted, for ease of access. It features twin vents at the rear, and single button cuffs, as is common on British gentry country tweeds. The trousers are pleated, with the shaping and cut of them being beautifully and carefully done by hand. They feature a side adjuster, buttons for braces, and lack belt loops. feature a zipped fly.
This suit is in absolutely excellent condition, with two minor flaws. The interior lining of the trousers is stained, commensurate with age and use, and there is some loose stitching in the lining of the jacket by the rear right-hand vent----a fix of a few moments for a dry-cleaner tailor, as it's on a seam.
Suits of this quality and provenance are very, very rare indeed--and so, like its brothers, above, this is a steal at just $175, OR LOWER OFFER, boxed, shipped, and insured in CONUS!
Measurements:
Chest: 20 1/8
Sleeve: 26 3/4 (+2 1/2)
Shoulder: 17 1/2
Length: 30 7/8
Waist: 15 1/2 (+2 1/2)
Inseam: 32 1/2 (+1) with 1 3/4" cuff.
4) GRAIL! GORGEOUS Oxxford "Fawnskin" classic charcoal suit
ON HOLD
This is absolutely beautiful! This suit is Oxxford's "Manhattan" model, and is constructed from lovely, soft Oxxford Fawnskin cloth--so soft and with such a lovely hand and drape it might at first touch appear to be a cashmere blend. The suit is a classic and versatile charcoal grey. It is a contemporary two button front model, with daring and four button cuffs. It is fully canvassed, and half lined. It has a single centre vent. The trousers are pleated and cuffed.
This suit is in absolutely excellent condition; the sole flaw is a red cross on the interior tag to prevent return to Neiman Marcus.
Asking just $95, or lower offer, boxed, shipped, and insured.
Tagged a 44T, this measures:
Chest: 23
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 20 1/8
Length: 33
Waist: 19
Inseam: 33 1/4 (+1) with 1 1/2 cuff.
5) BEAUTIFUL & Classic IVY 3/2 suit by The Princeton Clothing Co. in miniature grey herringbone.
This is an absolutely beautiful suit! Made for The Princeton Clothing Co., which was the runner-up Ivy company to the likes of Langrock, Hilton, Royce, and The English Shop, this beautiful suit is cut from a classic and versatile mid-grey cloth in miniature herringbone. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and features a lovely 3/2 lapel. It is also subtly darted--unusual for a 3/2 jacket--and has four button cuffs. It has a single centre vent. The trousers are flat-front and uncuffed.
This suit was Union Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.
Asking just $75, or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 22
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 32 1/2
Waist: 18 3/4
Inseam: 30 1/2 (+2 1/2)
6) GRAIL! Three-Piece Suit in miniature herringbone.
SOLD
This is absolutely beautiful! Cut from a classic and lovely grey-blue herringbone cloth, this wonderful three-piece suit is fully canvassed and fully lined in a lovely complementary and vibrant sky blue lining. It features three button cuffs, and a single centre vent. It is beautifully cut with a contemporary two button front and subtle darting. The vest features four fully functional front pockets, is fully lined (also in blue), and has a fully adjustable back. The trousers are flat front, uncuffed, and feature belt loops.
This suit carries no maker's labels, but it was clearly made in the USA.
It is in excellent condition, except that the three buttons on the left hand cuff are all snapped in half, and the front button of the vest has suffered a similar fate. But these minor flaws are very easy and cheap to fix.
Given the desirability of three piece suits, especially in such a classic patterning and colourway, this is a steal at just $115, or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 19 3/4
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
length: 32
Waist: 16 (+2)
Inseam: 34 1/4 (+2 3/4)
Vest width: 17
Vest length: 25
7) Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece 3/2 sack suit in Classic Charcoal with Cream Pinstripe
SOLD
The top of the line of Brooks' OTR offerings, this lovely suit is a traditional 3/2 sack with a lovely lapel roll. It is fully canvassed and half-lined, and features two button cuffs. It also has a single centre vent. It is cur from a classical charcoal cloth with a cream pinstripe. The trousers are flat front and uncuffed; they feature both buttons for braces and belt loops It was Union made in the USA..
Slightly rumpled from storage, this suit is in Very Good/Excellent condition.
Asking just $55, or offer.
Tagged 45R, this measures:
Chest: 22 7/8
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 30 3/4
Waist: 19 1/2
Inseam: 28 (+1/2)
8) GRAIL! Oxxford Super Worsted Suit in Classic Grey Glen Plaid.
This is absolutely wonderful! Fully canvassed and half-lined, this beautiful suit is cut from a wonderful, heavier Super Worsted cloth, that gives it a beautiful hand and drape--and is sure to wear like iron. The colourway is also lovely--a medley of classic charcoals and midgreys in a classic glen plaid pattern. This is a lovely, lovely suit! It features a single centre vent, and four button cuffs. The trousers feature belt loops as well as buttons for braces (suspenders); they are also cuffed. They feature a very small and neat pleat that's about 1 1/2" vertical at the first belt loop on either side, for shaping.
The tailoring is, as you'd expect from Oxxford, excellent. This is from the "Heritage" line. It is in excellent condition.
Asking just $95, or offer.
Tagged a 48T, this is smaller, measuring:
Chest: 23
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 191/8
Length: 32 1/2
Waist: 19 1/4
Inseam: 29 (+1), with 1 1/2" cuffs.
9) Southwick 3/2 sack in overchecked grey.
This is a lovely and classic 3/2 sack suit by Southwick in a lovely and unusual patterning and colourway. The base is a classic midgrey, and the suit presents as such from a distance, but on close inspection it is clear that is has a very subtle overcheck; horizontal lines of light blue, and vertical lines of red, betweenm two lines of cream thread. My pictures really do not do this suit justice!
It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and features a lovely lapel roll. It has a single centre vent and three button cuffs. The trousers are flat front and cuffed. It was made in the USA.
This suit is in excellent condition.
Asking just $69, or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 32
Waist: 17 7/8
Inseam: 30 1/4 (+1/2), with 1 1/2 cuff.
10) Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece 3/2 sack in dark navy
This is another lovely suit from the top of Brooks Brothers' OTR line! Cut as a classic Ivy 3/2 sack, this lovely suit is cut from a mid-weight dark, dark navy cloth. It's fully canvassed and half-lined, and features a single centre vent and two button cuffs. It features pick stitching on the lapels. The trousers are flat-front and cuffed. This suit was, of course, Union Made in the USA.
This suit is slightly rumpled from storage, and so is in conservatively Very Good/Excellent condition.
Asking just $65, or offer.
Measurements:
The now defunct size 46ML, this measures:
Chest: 23 1/2
Sleeve: 24 (+ 1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
length: 31 1/4
Waist: 20 3/4
Inseam: 27 1/2 (+1/2), with 1 1/2" cuff.
11) CLASSIC Brooks Brothers "346" 3/2 sack in miniature grey herringbone!
This is beautiful! Made as part of Brooks Brothers' old-school "346" line (not to be confused with the current outlet version of "346") this is cut as a classic Ivy 3/2 sack. It's half-canvassed and half-lined, and features the traditional two button cuffs. It also has a single centre vent, and a lovely lapel roll. The trousers are flat-front and cuffed. This suit was Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.
Asking $65, or offer.
Tagged a 48ML, this measures:
Chest: 24 1/4
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 31 3/4
Waist: 20 1/2
Inseam: 28 (+1), with 1 1/2" cuff.
12) CLASSIC Ivy 3/2 sack by OLD SCHOOL JAB
This is lovely, and NOT to be confused with the quality of JAB's current offerings! Cut as a traditional 3/2 sack in a classic dark navy pinstripe, this lovely suit is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has a single centre vent, a lovely lapel roll, and two button cuffs. The quality of the tailoring easily rivals that of Brooks' old-style "346" line; this is by no means a recent JAB offering! The trousers are flat front and uncuffed. It was Union Made in the USA. This beautiful suit is in absolutely EXCELLENT condition; it might even be unworn.
Asking just $65, or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 23 3/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 29
Waist: 17 7/8
Inseam: 26 1/2 (+1 1/2)
13) H. Freeman Ivy Two Button Sack in Classic Grey
This is that trad. rarity, a two button sack! This suit is half-canvassed and half-lined. It is cut as a sack, but has a contemporary two-button front, rather than a 3/2 closure. It has a single centre vent and two button cuffs. It's cut from a lovely mid-weight cloth in classic and versatile grey. The trousers are flat-front and cuffed.
This suit does has a small mark on the left-hand sleeve, as shown, which is faint and might come out with dry cleaning. As such, it is in in very Good condition, and hence I'm asking
only $40, or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Tagged 46L; Measurements:
Chest: 23
Sleeve: 26 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 19
length: 30 1/2
Waist: 19 1/2
Inseam: 30 1/2 (+1 1/4), with 2" cuff.
14) Brooks Brothers old-school "346" 3/2 sack in charcoal grey
Another lovely classic Ivy suit from Brooks Brothers, this is a 3/2 sack from their very, very good and traditional "346" line--the old-school version, not to be confused with the current outlet line with the same designation. This lovely classic suit is in charcoal, and is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has two button cuffs, a single centre vent, and was, of course, made in the USA. The trousers are flat-front and cuffed. With the exception of a small wrinkle on the lapel, as shown, this suit is in excellent condition.
Asking just $50, or offer.
Measurements:
Tagged a 42.
Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+1)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 31
Waist: 18 1/4
Inseam: 30 1/2 (+1/2), with 1 1/2 cuff.
PREVIOUSLY LISTED:
15) NTW Made in Italy Gino Valentino wool-silk suit.
This is by no means the nicest suit you'll see here, but it is NWT, and is decent--certainly very decent at my price! It's a more fashionable three button front and is unvented, in Flusser-approved style. The fabric is 91% wool 9% silk, and is reasonable quality--it was apparently woven in Italy, where the suit was made. The trousers are flat-front and cuffed, with the pockets set on the leg, not the seam. This suit is fully lined, and features pick stitching on the lining, as shown. This is NWT, and so is in superb condition. It was made in Italy, and is a very good deal at
just $30, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Tagged confusingly 38EU/32US, this measures:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 23 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 29 3/4
Inseam: 27 1/2 (+1) with 1 1/2 cuff.
Waist: 16 1/2
16) Brooks Brothers "Madison" 1818 pinstripe suit.
SOLD
A lovely, classic suit! The is a charcoal with cream pinstripes. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and is cut as a contemporary two button front with subtle darting and a centre vent. It was Union made in the USA. It features four button cuffs. The trousers are pleated and cuffed. This suit has a small smudge on the top of the left shoulder, as well as a smudge on the front and one on the trousers; these are from dry cleaning detergent and will almost certainly be easily removed with dry cleaning; given this, though, it is in Very Good condition, and hence is just
$35, boxed and shipped in the CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 20 1/4
Sleeve: 23 3/4 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 29 1/8
Inseam: 28 1/2 (+1) with 1 1/2 cuff.
Waist: 15 3/4
17) Double Breasted Grey Flannel Suit by Boss.
Boss gets very little love here--and nor should it, at full retail. But if you liek double breasted suits--or you'd like to expand your wardrobe to include one--then this is for you! Cut from a dark dove-grey wool flannel this lovely suit is half-canvassed and fully lined. It is unvented, in Flusser-approved style, and has jetted pockets. The lapels have pick stitching. The trousers are pleated, and have pockets off the seams. This suit is in excellent condition, and is an absolute bargain at just
$35 boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/4
Sleeve: 26 1/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 30 1/2
Inseam: 32 1/2 with 1 1/4 cuff.
Waist: 19 1/4
18) STRANGELY APPEALING brown Double-Breasted suit.
This suit wouldn't normally be the sort of thing I like--but this is strangely appealing! It's a double-breasted suit with peak lapels in a mocha brown cloth. It's well cut and seems to be half-canvassed; it's fully lined. It's darted, and unvented, as Flusser approves of, and has four buttons cuffs. The trousers are pleated. It's well-made, and very strangely appealing.
It would also be the ideal suit paired with a black shirt, white tie, and a fedora for a gangster costume at Hallowe'en! Or else you could just wear it as it is. It's weird, but weirdly attractive, too.
You can enjoy the strangeness of this for just $20, or offer, boxed and shipped in the CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 32
Inseam: 31 (+1/2) with 1 1/4 cuff.
Waist: 18
19) BEAUTIFUL Southwick 3/2 sack Suit in a subtle Fall glen plaid
This is another wonderful suit! Cut from a lovely dark grey glen plaid cloth with a lovely hand and drape, this is a classic 3/2 sack suit. It is fully canvassed and fully lined, and features a single centre vent. The trousers are flat-front. The jacket's lining is set off with contrasting yellow piping. This was made by Southwick, one of the great American clothiers, in the USA.
The jacket does have some minor shine to the elbows from wear, but this really doesn't detract from it--in fact, it adds character! because of this, though, this beauty is in Very Good condition, and hence I'm asking just $29, or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Tagged a 43, this measures:
Chest: 22 3/4
Sleeve: 23 3/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 31
Inseam: 28 1/4 (+1/2) with 1 1/2 cuff.
Waist: 19 1/2
20) Damaged Southwick pinstripe suit
This was a lovely suit, and with some repair could still be a wardrobe workhorse. It's a dark grey with pinstriping, half-canvassed, with two button cuffs and a half-lining and a single vent. But it has quite a bit of damage. The lining is torn at the hem on both sides and at the shoulder at the top, two of the cuffs buttons are missing, and the hem of the jacket has discolouration along its length, which might or might not come out with dry cleaning, as do both cuffs. Given these problems, this is close to free, being just
$15, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Measurements:
Chest: 22
Sleeve: 26 (+1)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 32
Inseam: 30 (+1)
Waist: 17 1/2
21) BEAUTIFUL H. Freeman 3/2 sack grey pinstripe suit.
Another beautiful suit by H. Freeman of Philadelphia! Made in the USA< this lovely 3/2 sack has a lovely lapel roll. It is cut from a classic grey cloth with cream pinstriping, with a regular interjection of a single thread of dark red to accent this. This is half-canvassed, and has a single centre vent. It features two button cuffs and is half-lined. The trousers are flay front. This suit is in absolutely excellent condition!
Asking just $45, or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.
Tagged a 44L, this measures:
Chest: 22
Sleeve: 25 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30 1/2
Inseam: 26 (+2 3/4)
Waist: 19
22) Brooks Brothers "Makers" classic grey suit
A classic grey suit, the wardrobe staple! This is from Brooks Brothers, and is a contemporary two-button front model with subtle darting. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has a single centre vent. The trousers are pleated.
This does has a couple of superficial white marks on the lapel and right hand front, but these will easily come out with dry cleaning. Because of them, however, this is only in Very Good/Excellent condition, and hence is
just $29, or offer.
Tagged a 44, this measures:
Chest: 22 3/4
Sleeve: 22 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 20
Length: 31 1/4
Inseam: 26 3/4 (+2 1/4)
Waist: 19
Attachments
Last edited:
