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Australian Members - Page 1866

post #27976 of 58029
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

For those who might not know, FNB is the "Film Noir Buff Forum", a forum started by an SF member who was later banned. A lot of the members over at FNB have been banned from SF and Ask Andy About Clothes (AAAC). Shooman, an erstwhile member of SF who posted here recently under the handle of "Hoo-man", posts over on FNB as Shooman and he's been posting some bespoke shoes that were made in Melbourne recently.

 

Nice piece of background JM....

 

How does one get banned from SF?

 

Actually my next question might get me banned..... In regards to Zegna suiting how do they stack up in terms of construction, quality. Are they generally cut on a conservative block or more tapered? I have been eyeing off a few Zegna DB's. It appears most DB's have a chalk/pin stripe of some sort, does that mean that's the ideal look of the DB?

 

Dusty

post #27977 of 58029
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

Obviously, if you have some shoes made at Zee's Leatherware in HK, you're not going to be getting the same quality as you would if you went with EG or G&G MTO shoes. However, you'd also be paying far, far less money. In fact, the money that you save would probably pay for your airfare to HK.

I've got a couple of friends who have had shoes made by Zee's. The quality is not fantastic but they are nonetheless reasonable shoes, certainly on a par with the overpriced stuff that you get at dept stores and most other specialist shoe stores here.

If you happen to be passing through Singapore, there's another bespoke/MTO shoemaker who has started up operations there. I have no experience at all with him, but his shoes do look nice: Ed Et Al.

With regard to Alden, I think that they do make one or two lasts that are designed to accommodate people with a narrow heel and a wide forefoot, such as the Modified last or Trubalance last, so they could both be worth investigating if you track down an Alden stockist in Canada or Japan (Note: Even if you can find Alden shoes that fit your wide feet in Japan, don't buy them there as Alden shoes are horrendously, horrendously expensive in Japan, as are other US- and UK-made shoes).

This is good advice Bunny. I have properly wide feet as well, so I can sympathise. Even in the widest fittings available here, there is always compromise - they are either massively too long or vice-like. Other than just puting up with it, Zee's and Alden are probably good options.

True bespoke shoes, at high quality points are going to be very expensive. Better to experiment with somewhere like Zee's first. I have a pair. As JM said, they are not superb quality, but they are not too bad and certainly great value. And they fit. But I have learnt a couple of things. Firstly, their leather is pretty stiff. Secondly, the sheer expanse of leather I need to stretch across my forefoot means really prominent buckling at the flex point. I went for a pretty plain design, but I think something with more brogueing might be better - as the wrinkles would be less prominent. Also, suede might be a better option. Can you come back from Japan via HK?

Alden have a range of high volume lasts. Some have specific purposes, so it might be worth having a look at their website with a podiatrist. Most of these shoes are hideous, but some are okay. I have a pair in a chunky, very American long wing style. Elegant, they are not. Comfy though.
post #27978 of 58029
I can recommend Shanghai Tianzi Shoes as well. Same story as Zees in regards to overall quality, I'd say (though I've never used Zees personally).
post #27979 of 58029

Thanks a lot for your help all of you!  I will off course see what there is to offer in Canada and Japan (unfortunately can't go to HK) if nothing works out I will decide on whether I will get from Zee's or Trunk shows; depends If I become enamoured at the shows or if I choose to keep my wits about me :)

P.S.

Might I trouble you JM for a link to the thread with hooman's bespoke shoes have been googling but can only find his older posts on his shoe progress on FNB. (Pm)

 

Thanks again! Oh Rob pls post your experience on your Manina's (?)

post #27980 of 58029
Quote:
Originally Posted by TehBunny View Post

Thanks a lot for your help all of you!  I will off course see what there is to offer in Canada and Japan (unfortunately can't go to HK) if nothing works out I will decide on whether I will get from Zee's or Trunk shows; depends If I become enamoured at the shows or if I choose to keep my wits about me :)

P.S.

Might I trouble you JM for a link to the thread with hooman's bespoke shoes have been googling but can only find his older posts on his shoe progress on FNB. (Pm)

 

Thanks again! Oh Rob pls post your experience on your Manina's (?)

Keep looking, I reckon.  Lots of places in Japan, eg Trading Posts (Osaka and Tokyo) stocks Carminas. Isetan Mens in Tokyo has a whole floor of nearly all English brands including JL. I am pretty sure you will also find good stuff in Mitsukoshi in Ginza (Tokyo equivalent of David Jones, only 100 times better). Hankyu Umeda in Osaka also stocks some decent shoes. Prices are all nose-bleed levels (not sure about prices during sales), so to be polite, buy one in the last that fits you, then order the same lasts online. If you are not being polite, just go in for fitting, and pretend that nothings fits.

post #27981 of 58029
Quote:
Originally Posted by TehBunny View Post

Thanks again! Oh Rob pls post your experience on your Manina's (?)

 

ah ok - mine are ready to wear and i think were 300 or 350 euro .. my wife bought two pairs of shoes too 

 

so  ive got a pair of snuff suede semi brogues and they put vibram on the soles coz i prefer rubber with my suede.

 

the suede is very soft and has aged nicely. Brogueing is very clean and the shoe is comfy as.

 

Sizing is weird at mannina .. im normally a 9UK in most shoes and I took their 7.5 size (not sure what metric it is) but thankfully the son was there and straight away he gave me the 7.5's to try on (even tho i thought no way a 7.5 would fit)

 

I wish i could get more shoes there the comfort, style and construction at 300-350 euro is awesome. Carmina are sometimes a bit too spivvy for me and alot of Aldens too "american"

post #27982 of 58029
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Brogues View Post

Nice piece of background JM....

How does one get banned from SF?

Shooman was banned because instead of sticking to shoes, he started going a bit wild in a few different threads and ended up making some quite offensive, anti-Semitic remarks. He'd also gone a bit overboard in some "health" threads and had posted about spiritual water, raw foods, enemas and mid-stream urine drinking. I think that it was the anti-Semitism that did him in, though.

As long as Shooman talks about shoes, he's fine, albeit a bit eccentrically overenthusiastic at times. However, it's best to steer clear of talking about politics or diets with him.

Most of the other FNB members who have been banned from SF and/or AAAC were banned because they started e-stalking or making personal attacks on members here. For example, FNB and a couple of others started to follow SF member Manton around pretty much everywhere he posted on SF and attacked his clothing, his style, and pretty much everything else about him. FNB also started to frequently bump his own threads with pointless edits so that they were always at the top of the forum. He was warned about doing it, didn't stop and so was banned.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Brogues View Post

Actually my next question might get me banned..... In regards to Zegna suiting how do they stack up in terms of construction, quality. Are they generally cut on a conservative block or more tapered? I have been eyeing off a few Zegna DB's. It appears most DB's have a chalk/pin stripe of some sort, does that mean that's the ideal look of the DB?

Dusty

It's been quite a few years since I've bought a Zegna suit, but they have a few different blocks and a few different lines of differing standards/quality.

I had one suit jacket that was quite boxy, with quite padded shoulders and trousers that were cut quite generously, but I had another one that had quite a slim cut, with less padded shoulders and two buttons, and slim trousers that were a "drop 7" or "drop 8" rather than the usual "drop 6" (ie a difference of six inches (or seven, or eight) between the jacket chest measurement and the waist measurement, such as a 44" chest and 38" waist).

The Zegna suits that I've had were well made and, whilst I think my models were mainly machine-made, they had floating canvas chestpieces, nice fabric, and pick-stitching on lapels and other seams.

I'm not sure where you can get Zegna on the coast, but if you come to Brisbane you can have a look in Xile as they have a reasonable selection (albeit at high prices, although they do occasionally have decent sales). It's still a good chance to have a look at their different models - they had a nice odd jacket on offer a while back that was called something like a traveller jacket - it looked like a blazer but was partially lined, with a couple of inner, zipped pockets for putting travel documents and it could be folded up into a small bundle and yet not look crumpled (or very crumpled) when you unfolded it.
post #27983 of 58029
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post


Shooman was banned because instead of sticking to shoes, he started going a bit wild in a few different threads and ended up making some quite offensive, anti-Semitic remarks. He'd also gone a bit overboard in some "health" threads and had posted about spiritual water, raw foods, enemas and mid-stream urine drinking. I think that it was the anti-Semitism that did him in, though.

As long as Shooman talks about shoes, he's fine, albeit a bit eccentrically overenthusiastic at times. However, it's best to steer clear of talking about politics or diets with him.

Most of the other FNB members who have been banned from SF and/or AAAC were banned because they started e-stalking or making personal attacks on members here. For example, FNB and a couple of others started to follow SF member Manton around pretty much everywhere he posted on SF and attacked his clothing, his style, and pretty much everything else about him. FNB also started to frequently bump his own threads with pointless edits so that they were always at the top of the forum. He was warned about doing it, didn't stop and so was banned.
It's been quite a few years since I've bought a Zegna suit, but they have a few different blocks and a few different lines of differing standards/quality.

I had one suit jacket that was quite boxy, with quite padded shoulders and trousers that were cut quite generously, but I had another one that had quite a slim cut, with less padded shoulders and two buttons, and slim trousers that were a "drop 7" or "drop 8" rather than the usual "drop 6" (ie a difference of six inches (or seven, or eight) between the jacket chest measurement and the waist measurement, such as a 44" chest and 38" waist).

The Zegna suits that I've had were well made and, whilst I think my models were mainly machine-made, they had floating canvas chestpieces, nice fabric, and pick-stitching on lapels and other seams.

I'm not sure where you can get Zegna on the coast, but if you come to Brisbane you can have a look in Xile as they have a reasonable selection (albeit at high prices, although they do occasionally have decent sales). It's still a good chance to have a look at their different models - they had a nice odd jacket on offer a while back that was called something like a traveller jacket - it looked like a blazer but was partially lined, with a couple of inner, zipped pockets for putting travel documents and it could be folded up into a small bundle and yet not look crumpled (or very crumpled) when you unfolded it.

 

Terrific JM, l might have to pop into Xile, and have look at their range and get a feel for the product. Were your suits DB or single breasted?

 

Looks like the Cronulla Sharks may have taken some of the advice of Shoo Man biggrin.gif Anti Semiticism will get you no where fast, did wonders for Mel's career....

post #27984 of 58029
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post


Shooman was banned because instead of sticking to shoes, he started going a bit wild in a few different threads and ended up making some quite offensive, anti-Semitic remarks. He'd also gone a bit overboard in some "health" threads and had posted about spiritual water, raw foods, enemas and mid-stream urine drinking. I think that it was the anti-Semitism that did him in, though.

As long as Shooman talks about shoes, he's fine, albeit a bit eccentrically overenthusiastic at times. However, it's best to steer clear of talking about politics or diets with him.

Most of the other FNB members who have been banned from SF and/or AAAC were banned because they started e-stalking or making personal attacks on members here. For example, FNB and a couple of others started to follow SF member Manton around pretty much everywhere he posted on SF and attacked his clothing, his style, and pretty much everything else about him. FNB also started to frequently bump his own threads with pointless edits so that they were always at the top of the forum. He was warned about doing it, didn't stop and so was banned.
 

 

interesting history! and people take advise from such characters and it becomes gospel on places such as this :)

post #27985 of 58029
Quote:
Originally Posted by Romp View Post


interesting history! and people take advise from such characters and it becomes gospel on places such as this smile.gif

Very true, I still chuckle to myself every-time I hear a DTO reference...

Hey Romp, as I am sure you'll be keeping us all abreast of more information with your new venture in due time, that said I would be interested in knowing what the point of difference will be between the new venture and PJ? Its great to hear that Matt will be involved, but I am on the cusp of ordering a new suit from Tom and Matt (my fourth) and am wondering if I should hold out?
post #27986 of 58029
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post


If you happen to be passing through Singapore, there's another bespoke/MTO shoemaker who has started up operations there. I have no experience at all with him, but his shoes do look nice: Ed Et Al.
 

 

I have 2 pairs from Edwin - from his RTW collection. They're great shoes, more bang for buck than any other $300-ish pair of shoes.

post #27987 of 58029
PSA. In Mychemist today, L'Essence de Cerutti (made by Antoine Lie of Etat Libre, CdG and Armani Code fame) for $10 a 50 ml bottle. Also found 100ml Guerlain Coriolan (vintage?) for $30.
post #27988 of 58029
Quote:
Originally Posted by California Dreamer View Post

PSA. In Mychemist today, L'Essence de Cerutti (made by Antoine Lie of Etat Libre, CdG and Armani Code fame) for $10 a 50 ml bottle. Also found 100ml Guerlain Coriolan (vintage?) for $30.

The Guerlain sounds like a bargain, and it has been discontinued from what I could uncover from google.

 

Nevertheless, the composition is citrus to oakmoss, and I think this style has probably been done to death, a thousand times over. If I remember correctly, one of your staples is Eau Sauvage. That was also citrus to oakmoss/vetiver. 

 

Have a look at CDG Odeur 71.  Now THAT is fascinating, unless it turns to poo on skin.satisfied.gif

post #27989 of 58029
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHECKstar View Post


Very true, I still chuckle to myself every-time I hear a DTO reference...

Hey Romp, as I am sure you'll be keeping us all abreast of more information with your new venture in due time, that said I would be interested in knowing what the point of difference will be between the new venture and PJ? Its great to hear that Matt will be involved, but I am on the cusp of ordering a new suit from Tom and Matt (my fourth) and am wondering if I should hold out?

yeah sure - ill probably regret putting details up here but here we go...

 

Suit Shop suits will be made in a totally different workshop - lets get this straight up front - this is not a pjohnson suit for less 

 

What we've done is setup a new workshop in China using the same equipment and techniques as applied in the Netherlands. The workshop is run and quality controlled by our Dutch guys to ensure a similar high level of quality while getting the cost of production lower. Our major point of difference vs other China made MTM suits is that we have that expertise and supervision in place on the production side AND have well-trained tailors here to ensure great fit. I think that combination is vital.

 

The block (pattern) used is very similar to PJT and is highly alterable for everyone's unique body shape.

 

We will offer 3 levels of construction (fused, half canvassed and full canvassed) depending on budget. Pricing starts at $750 and its +$100 for half canvassing and we are just ironing out details for full canvass but it will be c.+$300 at this stage. In my mind I think the half canvassed offers best value but there are going to be guys who cant differentiate and just want the entry level price and guys who like having full canvas.

 

There are other differences such we dont have wide lapels, hand made or unstructured options and the inside pocket design is a little different. But 90% of the options exist and we want to focus on being great value and highly efficient for a high quality product.  

 

To sum up what we are trying to off is:

- A travelling tailor with try-on suits to ensure an impeccable fit

- Premium range of fabrics

- High degree of customisation

- Affordable MTM price point for a comparably high quality product

- Working on a simple, efficient online ordering system for repeat customers.

 

 

Hope that helps? ive tried to be as neutral with it as possible and not sell you guys on one offer or the other  - both are great and ultimately comes down to your budget - people new to MTM are probably best off starting with suit shop and working their way up while guys who are into tailoring are like handmade and the  higher level of craftsmanship  are probably best served at P.Johnson.

 

Hopefully we will have some photos up soon and after the first round of suits from our April fittings are back we will take a photo of every commission so there is a better idea of how these look.


Edited by Romp - 3/11/13 at 12:49am
post #27990 of 58029

Thanks for putting that info up, Rob. I hope that prevents the initial slew of questions that would have inevitable followed the launch.

 

This looks like an interesting product at the right price point and I wish you much success.

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