Originally Posted by Sator
One of the things I am always in two minds about when I place a bespoke order for a suit is whether to get an extra pair of trousers. With lighter, summer fabrics the answer is easy - yes, definitely. With anything sturdier it is less clear cut. Then again, given enough time, there is always the risk that some accident will befall the trousers. It might be ten years or more before that happens, but when it does it is too late. There is no going back. Maybe then, just maybe you will regret it. Does anyone else ponder such things every time he places an order with his tailor? How do you approach it?
I think with Summer suits in hot humid cities this isn't a bad idea because the pants have a higher chance of getting sweaty/dirty with the weather and summer activities. dont think this has to do with the pants wearing out as much as the need to rotate the pants more often. For the heavier or harder fabrics whether they are Harrison's fine classics, lessers 11 or 13 oz book, either firm's frescoes an extra pair of pants really aren't necessary. I think this is more a worry over having a tailor to get a new suit from ( a valid worry) than cloth getting worn out. From what i have seen from cloth from the English merchants, there is very little wear over time. The cloth is many times in a completely different league than the great bulk of suits found RTW. I started out treating my tailored garments as if they were more fragile than the RTW items and found that they are solid and can take a beating without showing the slightest signs of wear. How you treat your clothes makes a bigger difference in how long they last. I say this because I notice trends about the quality or the weight of the cloth. Cloth is important but it isnt the whole story about why things wear. I have a suit made from a super 100s 10oz cloth I thought was more like cardboard than fine wool. It has not only withstood incredible hammering but it still looks new. It is comfortable, easy to wear etc... and of course, the mill is no longer in business so i cant get more. You cannot tell how cloth is going to react until you put it through its paces. There are some things to consider. Except for Barbera, English mills make sturdier wool than the Italian ones. The cloth merchants that serve the tailoring trade like Lessers, Harrisons, Smiths (to name but a few) offer superior cloths because their reputations hang on every tailored garment made. If a suit doesnt perform well, they hear about it. That's why, a 150s from Schlomo suits may be prone to tearing but one offered by Harrison's wears well. Weight of the cloth is important but only between same weaves and qualities can you truly make an informed comparison.