Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[gusvs]



Superb! Worth a full quote.

+1, looks fantastic!

 

[forex]



I have a jacket made from scabal's "pure linen" book, its a great cloth, but at half width it is extremely expensive, and an italian tailor will be able to source it at a lower price.
WBill and Cacciopolli exist for a reason, I would not try to circumvent them when you won't be able to tell whether the stuff sold direct is made to the same specifications. Wbill and cacciopollis offerings are good the way they are, and are priced modestly, especially through tailors that have relationships. It all just comes down to which you prefer, irish or italian linen

W. Bill linen is 60 GBP per meter and while it is lower than LL pricing, I don't think it is modestly priced. It is still pretty high and on par with other wool fabrics.

 

[Slickman]

Compared to what else is out there, 60gbp/m for single width linen is not expensive by any means, scabal's is easily double the price and definitely not double the quality, I think if you're going the bespoke route, to skimp out on the fabric over a difference of 20 or 30 gbp/m is not worth it. I can personally attest to wbill's linen quality, it tailors into a great garment. For something softer, I would opt for cacciopolli's italian linen, it is different than wbill's, but still great. I would not however endorse the LL linen's because of the price, its just too much, and although the quality may be there, the difference from wbill or cacciopoli's offerings is negligible. I was going to purchase the POW linen they offered just because good patterned linens are hard to come by, but decided against it after being quoted the LL standard. Ariston also carries a nice selection of linen, so you should take a look there as well. As with most italian distributors, the italian tailors will be able to get cloth at a much better price than others.

 

[Cantabrigian]



I'd have to disagree. Although there is nothing wrong with the jacket, there can certainly be improvements on the pattern, specifically around the chest/shoulder area. Seems he has a drop unaccounted for on the right, and something going on at top of left chest (possibly fwd shoulders), leaving a not very clean chest. The cloth looks heavy which is just helping to hide the issues

You don't like it, teh drape?

 

[Cantabrigian]



Also, for cloth buffs, I've just been playing around a bit with Scotweb's tartan designer. It's a bit basic, but good fun. Now, if Johnston's would only make this in cashmere...

I kinda like that one.

 

[imatlas]

Gents, any good sources for linen jacketings? Looking to get navy blue, brown and tan colors.

Mao x 2 mentioned he uses Solbiati.

I have used both Solbiati and W. Bill, and been happy w/ both.

I have a jacket made up in a Solbiati linen from Mytailor in tobacco brown, as an alternative to the Slewfoot Fresco as I'm not a fan of teh Fresco. This linen is a great fabric, very soft to the touch in a rich brown with nice visual interest / surface texture. My only caveat is that it is such a light fabric that I eventually asked Joe to add some interlining at the cuff to keep it from curling.

 

[TheTukker]



I think you're looking into too much minutia from a split second photograph. Any of those things would be barely - if at all - discernible in real life. It's hard enough to notice even in the photograph. I do see what you are referring to, but I just view that as added drape for added comfort.

+3

 

[tcbrgs]

Compared to what else is out there, 60gbp/m for single width linen is not expensive by any means, scabal's is easily double the price and definitely not double the quality, I think if you're going the bespoke route, to skimp out on the fabric over a difference of 20 or 30 gbp/m is not worth it. I can personally attest to wbill's linen quality, it tailors into a great garment. For something softer, I would opt for cacciopolli's italian linen, it is different than wbill's, but still great. I would not however endorse the LL linen's because of the price, its just too much, and although the quality may be there, the difference from wbill or cacciopoli's offerings is negligible. I was going to purchase the POW linen they offered just because good patterned linens are hard to come by, but decided against it after being quoted the LL standard. Ariston also carries a nice selection of linen, so you should take a look there as well. As with most italian distributors, the italian tailors will be able to get cloth at a much better price than others.

I'm sorry you're deluded if you think 60gbp/m for single width linen isn't expensive... John England make some of the best linen in the world, they supply most of the top merchants, you can buy it for around 20gbp/m, I'm not sure what else I can tell you

 

[patrickBOOTH]

60 GBP/m for any fabric isn't expensive let alone linen.

 

[marcodalondra]



...
Ariston also carries a nice selection of linen, so you should take a look there as well. As with most italian distributors, the italian tailors will be able to get cloth at a much better price than others.

For Info:
Ariston also carrys Solbiati.

And I agree, for Italian fabrics is better to get your tailor to source it for you as Italian mills do reserve special pricing to the industry.

 

[tcbrgs]

60 GBP/m for any fabric isn't expensive let alone linen.

I guess that depends on who you know and where you shop. It is expensive to me, considering I purchase the same linen 1/3rd of the price... Perhaps not so for you

 

[Slickman]



I'm sorry you're deluded if you think 60gbp/m for single width linen isn't expensive... John England make some of the best linen in the world, they supply most of the top merchants, you can buy it for around 20gbp/m, I'm not sure what else I can tell you

I mean when buying from a merchant instead of the actual mill. I am not familiar with john englands stock linen specifications so I can't comment on how it tailors.

 

[tcbrgs]

I mean when buying from a merchant instead of the actual mill. I am not familiar with john englands stock linen specifications so I can't comment on how it tailors.

They have many stock lines in different weights, qualities and colours. No need to thank me

 

[RogerC]



I kinda like that one.

Why thank you. I find it is often quite difficult to find interesting odd jacketings in blue. I'd be quite interested in a hue like the one in the picture, for four season wear, perhaps with an interesting windowpane or so.

 

[aravenel]



Why thank you. I find it is often quite difficult to find interesting odd jacketings in blue. I'd be quite interested in a hue like the one in the picture, for four season wear, perhaps with an interesting windowpane or so.

Similarly, I realized a couple of months ago that with two exceptions, all of my sport coats are in the brown range. Which is fine, but I mostly wear SCs and would like to switch it up a bit, if only to vary the colors of tie I can wear with them a bit.

My random thought for the day. Still not sure what my next SC will be.