Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Lovelace]

Gentlemen, there is nothing wrong with SBPL odd jackets.

PL add a bit of dash to a sportscoat IMO.

I have several and recommend them.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



Oh, and btw...I had promised to report back after looking at the Dormeuil 'Naturals' book - some nice stuff in there, but a lot of it is very shiny, and very lightweight (like down to 6.5 oz for some fabrics). The silk/linen 8 oz blends looked nice, I'm kind of considering it for an odd trouser. Here's a pic of the Tonik next to some of the silk/linens (obviously these are the lighter shade options):

Who actually makes up a suit in 6.5 oz, or 7 oz as per Holland & Sherry's Dragonfly beats me. It's not even about the price. They look like they won't even hold their shape, not to mention it'll go in half a year.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Yea I don't think I'd go below 8 oz.

 

[TRINI]



Who actually makes up a suit in 6.5 oz, or 7 oz as per Holland & Sherry's Dragonfly beats me. It's not even about the price. They look like they won't even hold their shape, not to mention it'll go in half a year.

I was at Harry Rosen's in their MTM department with a friend who was picking up a tux last year. I was talking to their rep about MTM/bespoke, etc and he was saying they consider 9 oz and above winter weight (!!!!) and they go down to 5 oz for summer suiting & sportscoats.

 

[Lovelace]

Easier to fuse cloth of that weight. i should imagine.

 

[aravenel]

I think we're in the minority in liking heavier fabrics. Seems like most everything these days is super light, even "winter" suits. I think people like the way it feels, and don't know enough to know that it won't likely look as good or last as long.

 

[whnay.]



To be clear - the suit (and therefore the jacket also) would be a kind of midnight blue with some lighter blue threads woven in, not gray. Gray was a potential idea for the odd trousers to go with the jacket when worn separately. It's the fabric on top here for the suit:

http://cdn.styleforum.net/1/11/115a83c3_photo-1_zpsc56b3e87.jpeg

I don't mind the fabric but still think it will look weird paired with other trousers. Why not just buy the suit and wear it as such? And if your going to go the SBPL route you might as well seal the deal with jetted pockets - make it a true dinner / club suit.

 

[Lovelace]

Tailors prefer working with heavier cloths. Heavier cloth suits the bespoke process and is easier to tailor.

 

[unbelragazzo]



I don't mind the fabric but still think it will look weird paired with other trousers. Why not just buy the suit and wear it as such? And if your going to go the SBPL route you might as well seal the deal with jetted pockets - make it a true dinner / club suit.

Yes, it will have jetted pockets too. I'll have the suit, but I want to experiment with trying to maintain the evening elegance of it without the "why are you wearing a suit?" questions in evening locales where they're usually not worn. Might be impossible.

 

[Lovelace]



I don't mind the fabric but still think it will look weird paired with other trousers. Why not just buy the suit and wear it as such? And if your going to go the SBPL route you might as well seal the deal with jetted pockets - make it a true dinner / club suit.

He can just tuck the flaps in.

 

[Axelman 17]

The black yarns woven into it seem to make it hard to pair with something like creme or khaki. I just think you could find a better cloth for a sportcoat that would serve your purpose. Heck, the blue underneath the one you chose would work better.

 

[unbelragazzo]



Tailors prefer working with heavier cloths.

This preference is universal among English tailors, but not necessarily elsewhere. Italians are less likely to grumble about lighter cloth (but I'm talking about lighter being 8-9 ounces here, not this 5 oz stuff).

 

[add911_11]



Who actually makes up a suit in 6.5 oz, or 7 oz as per Holland & Sherry's Dragonfly beats me. It's not even about the price. They look like they won't even hold their shape, not to mention it'll go in half a year.

My friend, you will be surprised how much lightweight LP and Zegna are praised in our region. If tailor makes clothes that are too durable, they will ended up very little business. Nowadays, even for myself if things deteriorate after 2 years wearing I am pretty happy with it. Sometimes, the Italian lightweights do make up well and look nice and drapey.

 

[unbelragazzo]



He can just tuck the flaps in.

This is true but since I'm never going to wear the flaps out, and sometimes they'll come out by accident, I'd rather just go without them. It's not so heavy a cloth that tucking the flaps in will create an impression in the outer cloth or be too bulky I don't think, but still, there's no point in having them if I'll never want them.

The black yarns woven into it seem to make it hard to pair with something like creme or khaki. I just think you could find a better cloth for a sportcoat that would serve your purpose. Heck, the blue underneath the one you chose would work better.

Blue underneath is too bright for the evening thing I'm going for. Something in the cream/buff range could be OK though I think. Maybe an attempt to reinterpret this guy.

 

[whnay.]



Yes, it will have jetted pockets too. I'll have the suit, but I want to experiment with trying to maintain the evening elegance of it without the "why are you wearing a suit?" questions in evening locales where they're usually not worn. Might be impossible.

Only thing I can think that might work is a pair of white trousers in a heavier linen. Otherwise seems impossible.