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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    There are many variations of Super's. It has a certain marketing cache and some are mislead that if a cloth is a Super 150's,etc., it is implying a standard of quality. Not so.

    There are qualities within the designations of super's. A lot of cheating goes on with this as well.

    A good Super in a 150's, 160's or 180's can be a thing of beauty. There is no sacrifice of durability, or response to tailoring. My personal appreciation is how the cloth responds to change such as altering. How well the old stitch marks are removed or how a crease will come out and then set a new crease. My favorites are Holland & Sherry supers due to how they perform regarding this. The good ones are expensive but reasonable for there luxe performance and hand.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2013
  2. Svenn

    Svenn Well-Known Member

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    Any hopsacks from specific books you would recommend?
     
  3. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    I quite understand. The thing is, in this sartorial wilderness, my tailor is limited in both technical skill and communication. Were I dealing with someone more accomplished, I would probably ask for the tailor's suggestions before I bought the cloth. Either way, your last point is right of course, but it's so damn hot here all the time that whatever the preference, heavier cloths are pretty much unwearable.

    So what I'm looking for in this instance is some broad brush tips on styles or constructions that work well with lighter cloths in general. Thank you for taking the trouble, anyway.
     
  4. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    You will be better served if you pick cloth within his comfort zone to work with due to these limitations. Superior cloth is of no benefit if his tailoring skills are lacking.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2013
  5. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    Chris: do you have an opinion on Escorial? Thanks.
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Almost every cloth house has a hopsack in a book or two at different weights. Holland & Sherry, Smiths, Harrison's, Harrison's Premier Cru has an 11 ounce version. All these are limited to a few colors and shades. Mainly navy and grey. Gladson has a few this season and show more colors in the new Minnis sample book.

    I didn't care for the Scabal I tried, cloth qulity was ok but had too much sheen. Prefer the matte look on hopsack.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2013
  7. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    I like it. Has a soft hand so you have to be aware and appreciate the softness.

    Just delivered an 8 ounce escorial navy nailhead suit.
     
  8. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    Great, thanks.

    I was looking at the 10-11 oz. Escorials from R&T, and your post ensures that my order will go in soon.
     
  9. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

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    I thought R&T is under administration now.
     
  10. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    Companies still operate as going concerns under bankruptcy proceedings (airlines would be an obvious example).

    They just sent me samples last week.
     
  11. aravenel

    aravenel Well-Known Member

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    Good lord, if airlines couldn't operate when under bankruptcy, the number of flights between any two points would decline by about 75%.
     
  12. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    I can't speak about the quality of R&T Escorial. Haven't used it. I mention this because I did use some non-Lesser Golden Bale cloth and it was pure crap. As Golden Bale is of a higher quality it wasn't the same from another maker.
    The Escorial I have used is from Holland &Sherry
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2013
  13. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    Got it - thank you.
     
  14. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    An odd request, but does anyone have an accurate (or semi-accurate) picture of Minnis flannel 340? I'd like to see if it's right for a project I'm thinking about, and don't want to go through the hassle of requesting just one swatch.
     
  15. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    Thank you again for taking the time to reply. The detailed knowledge in this thread is extraordinary.

    In this instance, I have the cloth already and just wondered what broad ideas were sensible for using what I have. But I will certainly be taking the tailor's advice on what comes next.
     
  16. Maccimus

    Maccimus Well-Known Member

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    Got a piece of 16oz beige cavalry twill from Huddersfield's special offer couple months ago. Can someone enlighten me what can I do with it? It is more like dark kharki and looks a bit green indoor... :satisfied:
     
  17. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    it will be a good alternative to a pair of rough-wear jeans.
     
  18. ~ B ~

    ~ B ~ Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Rangoon Navy Chalkstripe soon to be made up into a DB suit with scalloped-bellied lapel DB waistcoat. Waistcoat will be worn in autumn with the suit.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    ^^ Lovely. The suits sound great; hope pics will follow.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  20. RDiaz

    RDiaz Well-Known Member

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    Which Holland and Sherry books have hopsacks? I don't recall seing any navy ones in the Intercity book my tailor has (and I was expecting to find some there).
     

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