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Neckties: A Discussion Thread - Page 43

post #631 of 1082
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Interesting. So what is the process behind rough shot silks? Mine have pretty pronounced slubs, but the silk does also feel...denser, I guess...than some of my raw silk ties.

Correct - our rough Thai silk is denser/thicker than normal - so more expensive to make.

We start off with silk that is twisted together and then it is woven in a plain weave by hand.

The silk is reeled not spun. (It is not wild silk)
post #632 of 1082
Ok so i took the plunge and ordered a Tadino 7fold wool tie (mid grey) which was on offer for Eur59.

The good: a handmade 7fold wool tie for Eur59
The wool has a really interesting feel and colour
The knot is fairly good for an unlined tie

The bad: even though shipping was advertised for free it actually cost eur5 or so
It took 3 weeks and thus the tie was folded in a small package for a long time a couple of days hanging on a hanger and most of the crumpling went away
The folds are a bit of centre and thus the tie is a bit thicker on the left side also the foldjng on the narrow blade is kinda wierd (check the pictures on the site youll undersrand)
The tie feels too light but thats cause its an unlined untipped number so i guess its a matter or preference

Overall its botderline ok for 59 eur but i probably wont be buying from Tadino again and i certainly wouldnt pay eur100+ for full price
post #633 of 1082

dimitrioup, would you share some pictures?

 

Speaking of shantung (thank you Mr. Hober for your clarification!), I recently bought my first shantung from Embassy of Elegance, with the intention of wearing it in summertime, as I think it matches the roughness of linen shirts. I haven't really tested it yet, but now I'm considering giving it a shot with an autumn/winter jacket...

 

It's actually untipped, which is a bit of a surprise (the reverse side of dotted fabrics is actually striped, as most of you know, which is fun to see for a layman like me), but lined.

 

The fabric itself is lovely and it looks like nothing else, that's for sure. I love how it combines lightness, shininess and roughness. I'm looking forward to giving it some necktime!

 

post #634 of 1082
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post #635 of 1082
post #636 of 1082

It looks very wide, doesn't it? Nice beard BTW, I've been sporting a similar one recently.

 

EDIT: It's probably just the perspective (about the tie, not the beard).

post #637 of 1082
No its 8.5cm probably the canera angle. Thanks for beard. After my second son was born there is no time for shaving. Or rahter there is but i prefer the extra 5 mins sleep so...
post #638 of 1082

8,5 cm is perfect. I think most (if not all) of the ties I showed in this thread are 8,5 cm in width.

post #639 of 1082

Majority of my MTM ties are as well 8.5cm, however I have also 8 and 9cm and think they are great too.

post #640 of 1082
Quote:
Originally Posted by dimitrioup View Post

Ok so i took the plunge and ordered a Tadino 7fold wool tie (mid grey) which was on offer for Eur59.

The good: a handmade 7fold wool tie for Eur59
The wool has a really interesting feel and colour
The knot is fairly good for an unlined tie

The bad: even though shipping was advertised for free it actually cost eur5 or so
It took 3 weeks and thus the tie was folded in a small package for a long time a couple of days hanging on a hanger and most of the crumpling went away
The folds are a bit of centre and thus the tie is a bit thicker on the left side also the foldjng on the narrow blade is kinda wierd (check the pictures on the site youll undersrand)
The tie feels too light but thats cause its an unlined untipped number so i guess its a matter or preference

Overall its botderline ok for 59 eur but i probably wont be buying from Tadino again and i certainly wouldnt pay eur100+ for full price

 

 

Those “ties" are poorly made by non professional people with poor interlining and materials and a poor imitation of the Neapolitan tie as well as Massimo Dutti (Zara owned) does all the time ripping Neapolitan garments, even clone by cheap mills the designs of top notch English and Como silks.

 

Note, I visited a Massimo Dutti store several years ago after going out of Kiton and were already selling copied patterns of exclusively printed for Kiton silks that were received that same day in Kiton, so how is that the copier could have already done ties with copied material, whose the original owner (Kiton) received that same day the silks... Some shilled spy passes the designs to those Zara copiers, that is well know on the Alta Sartoria industry. 

 

 

One of my usual clients who came visit us to Naples and even came to my house, showed me pics of one of those poor ties expossed by Dimitrigroup, I sent those pics to the tie masters of Kiton, Borrelli, ex Marinella and so on and could not believe that Madrid done (I think) cheapo imitation of Neapolitan ties could be sold or that people could buy it, specially at 100 euros retail. Even more expensive than the originals!

 

I warned time ago with shills and blogs but instead of thanks, I got insults all the time by people with any idea about. Then this things happens...  The one who I think is the owner has any idea about textiles, tailoring or fitting but writes as if he got a master degree by Como or Manchester Textile University.  I have exposed those tons of times.  He even dares to ask for free garments for reviews on his blog. The how can you expect a real critic and sincere review?

 

As if we did not have enough with Cromptom and his ridiculous fake reviews, we have cheap imitators wanting easy cash all the time undignifying the tailoring industry they won´t ever belong to.

 

Both even said perfect fit on two shirts that honestly, as having a diploma on shirtmaking myself, that rice bag and rag can´t be called shirt, even the sleeves that were extremely out of pitch, were several cms longer, as well as the body being a random size aprox 3 sizes bigger instead of the owner body, incredible. The exact believes all the Neapolitan industry I showed that parody of shirt that ended on the walls of several High Tailoring schools as  perfect badspoke example (for real).

 

Beware with the internet my friends. Stay alert, worst is that those (as everytime are more bloggers of this kind) has a ton of followers/hooligans (see all the insults I got all the time by this people I expose every time I find one, one was banned by having three socks here all them insulting me and even dared to pm me denying the others with same ip were himself) so are the perfect victims of this rookies and their poor garments.

 

I recommend rereading the guide to a well done tie I posted on this same thread to avoid paying for a bad tie.

 

snuff said. Sorry for the rap, but this people makes me sick every time I read a new scammed client.

 

Edited to add this answer;

 

post #638 of 639
4 hours, 6 minutes ago
 
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8,5 cm is perfect. I think most (if not all) of the ties I showed in this thread are 8,5 cm in width.

 

 

 

 

8,5 is perfect, well depends on the wearer body and face, some people needs more as having a bigger frame.

 

I do for myself as well as standard rtw 8,5 as well, but some people needs more for a balanced look, others even 8.

 

7,5 starts into fashion, so I prefer stoping into 8 unless someone ask specially for 7,5 or even less,

 

I once did a very slim tie kinda Far West for a guy who wanted for Carnival a disguise based on the best Tarantino film, Reservoir Dogs.

 

I asked him a pic just for fun of the outfit but never got it. :(

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 92


Edited by SartodiNapoli - 1/18/16 at 12:52pm
post #641 of 1082


I agree that Reservoir Dogs is the best of Tarantino's movie :). I also agree that sometimes narrower or broader ties may look good or great, and that 8,5 should be regarded as a standard.

 

Your comments on 7-fold ties made me think of ordering another grenadine online and untipped seven-fold, this time in glorious purple. I already have a grenadine fina tie of this type, which I love (and which I showed in this thread a couple of weeks ago) and I'm wondering if grenadine grossa is an option. Wouldn't grossa be to thick for a seven fold? Is there even a significant difference in thickness between grossa and fina?

post #642 of 1082
post #643 of 1082

While following the discussion regarding 7 fold ties less than $100, I came across this:

http://www.shopthefinest.com/products/luigi-borrelli-white-tie?variant=1649147908

How would one wear a white color tie?

post #644 of 1082
Quote:
Originally Posted by raindog View Post


I agree that Reservoir Dogs is the best of Tarantino's movie smile.gif. I also agree that sometimes narrower or broader ties may look good or great, and that 8,5 should be regarded as a standard.

Your comments on 7-fold ties made me think of ordering another grenadine online and untipped seven-fold, this time in glorious purple. I already have a grenadine fina tie of this type, which I love (and which I showed in this thread a couple of weeks ago) and I'm wondering if grenadine grossa is an option. Wouldn't grossa be to thick for a seven fold? Is there even a significant difference in thickness between grossa and fina?

Grossa is not too thick for an unlined 7-fold but I do not suggest using a grenadine silk for a 7-fold as grenadines tend to stretch and won't hold its shape over time.
post #645 of 1082
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdsr View Post

While following the discussion regarding 7 fold ties less than $100, I came across this:
http://www.shopthefinest.com/products/luigi-borrelli-white-tie?variant=1649147908
How would one wear a white color tie?

I wouldn't.
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