Looking for a new suit (slim) - recommendations?

Hi guys, new here - looked around for a thread that specifically discussed what I was looking for and couldn't find anything so decided to start this thread.

A bit of a background - I'm a pretty slim guy: 23 yrs, 5'11, 135lbs. I usually wear 36R and depending on the brand, it fits okay (Bar III was the best fit I had but didn't like the quality of the suit).

I've checked out J. Crew, Bonobos, Indochino, and SuitSupply online and I don't really know what to get. My most important factors for purchasing are quality and fit, as I'm sure is for everyone. I'm not looking for the most up-to-date fashionable thing, but I'd like it to be some what trendy.

There seem to be mixed reviews on each of the brands I discussed above (J Crew not worth the price for quality, Suitsupply made in China, etc) so I wanted to have a thread that discussed modern suits in general.

In summary, which brands should I be looking at to get the best quality and fit for my size (Brooks Brothers won't work). I'd say my budget is about $750 for a 3-piece. I'd like to stay under $500, but I know that won't happen if I want something good.

I hope I didn't miss any vital information but if I did, I'll be happy to provide it.

Have you tried the Milano fit from Brooks Brothers? It's even slimmer than the Fitzgerald, although the choices are limited. No idea if they have any 3pc options.

Welcome to the forum, iz. We have a weekly new member thread that would be great for questions like this. Next time you have a quick question, check it out. Here is the link for this week:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/467468/...-questions-classic-menswear-wk-of-mar-16-2015

Out of the choices you named, Suit Supply would definitely be my recommendation. Yes, they are made in China, but they are made very well. The suits are half canvassed and they use quality fabrics. You can't really beat them for the price. Also, it's risk free with free shipping both ways. Best of luck.

Murlsquirl said:

Welcome to the forum, iz. We have a weekly new member thread that would be great for questions like this. Next time you have a quick question, check it out. Here is the link for this week:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/467468/...-questions-classic-menswear-wk-of-mar-16-2015

Out of the choices you named, Suit Supply would definitely be my recommendation. Yes, they are made in China, but they are made very well. The suits are half canvassed and they use quality fabrics. You can't really beat them for the price. Also, it's risk free with free shipping both ways. Best of luck.

Click to expand...

Ah, didn't know about that. Thanks for the warm welcome. Is this thread still okay to move forward with?

And as I am a "style" newbie - what does half-canvassed mean?

Also I'd like to hear people's opinions on the other brands and any new suggestions for brands that I haven't looked into. Indochino seems like it has too many issues with tailoring, so I'll probably drop them off. Bonobos seems like its overpriced and not great quality. Haven't heard many bad things about J Crew suits so as long as I'm not buying them at full price.

I don't know why, but the China thing throws me off. Just a preconceived bias that suits should not be made in China lol.

Adesnik said:

Have you tried the Milano fit from Brooks Brothers? It's even slimmer than the Fitzgerald, although the choices are limited. No idea if they have any 3pc options.

Click to expand...

I have not but I don't have high hopes from BB because even their extra-slim fit shirts don't fit me. I'll just disregard them as a brand for this discussion. Thanks though.

Do you have an issue with Made in China? Bonobos and Indochino are also made in china BTW.

When you are talking about Bespoke it is always best that the person that measures you and cuts the cloth is the same person and some proximity to those that construct it is useful but not as essential as their ability to communicate with each other.

When you look at RTW or MTM you're talking about standard blocks and so it really doesnt matter where in the world the thing is made. You get some places in China pumping out fantastic things and you get some absolute rubbish pushed out of some places in Italy or the UK.

As to canvasing, the outer fabrics of a suit isnt sufficient on its own. Traditionally you would stitch a layer (or more) of canvas to it to give it more rigidity/ shape etc. This however is time consuming and thus adds costs.

To drive costs down a new method of bonding (gluing) the intermediary layer to the fabric was created and thus you only need to stitch ones. Inevitably this effects the drape of the cloth and doesnt allow you to alter the intermediary fabric for the different parts of the suit.

A half canvas is a middle ground. The upper part of the suit has a traditional canvas as this is where its most important but the bottom half remains bonded thus still cost saving over a fully canvased suit.

Astaroth said:

Do you have an issue with Made in China? Bonobos and Indochino are also made in china BTW.

When you are talking about Bespoke it is always best that the person that measures you and cuts the cloth is the same person and some proximity to those that construct it is useful but not as essential as their ability to communicate with each other.

When you look at RTW or MTM you're talking about standard blocks and so it really doesnt matter where in the world the thing is made. You get some places in China pumping out fantastic things and you get some absolute rubbish pushed out of some places in Italy or the UK.

As to canvasing, the outer fabrics of a suit isnt sufficient on its own. Traditionally you would stitch a layer (or more) of canvas to it to give it more rigidity/ shape etc. This however is time consuming and thus adds costs.

To drive costs down a new method of bonding (gluing) the intermediary layer to the fabric was created and thus you only need to stitch ones. Inevitably this effects the drape of the cloth and doesnt allow you to alter the intermediary fabric for the different parts of the suit.

A half canvas is a middle ground. The upper part of the suit has a traditional canvas as this is where its most important but the bottom half remains bonded thus still cost saving over a fully canvased suit.

Click to expand...

Ah that's good information. Although I must say I didn't understand the first half of this post lol - Bespoke? RTW? MTM?

It's good to know that the China thing isn't a big deal.

Any opinions on J Crew? or something I haven't mentioned?

RTW - Ready To Wear (or off the rail), you walk into a shop, pick it off the shelf, buy it and walk out with it.

MTO - Made to Order - set sizing for all but things like leg and sleeve length but you can select fabrics, buttons, linings etc. First thing you see is the finished garment.

MTM - Made to Measure - fairly set suit shapes but a modest amount of ability to flex sizing so if you are a 38R chest but a 42R belly because you like your beer to much then this can help. Similarly can select fabrics/ buttons etc etc. Normally the first thing you see if the finished garment but may go back for minor alterations.

Bespoke - blank sheet of paper, you can have absolutely whatever you want with no restrictions. Subject to the skills of those involved this should always give by far the best fit as they can deal with each nuance of your body as nothing at all is preset. First thing you see is a part constructed garment, often with stitching thatll be removed. The people will then be able to see how it is draping on you and be able to make any alterations needed. Depending on the level of the place and how odd shaped you are you may need several fittings to get it right.

So basically, its in the order of level of customization and also the amount of work required. Arguably it should also be the order of the pricing but too many other factors come into play (brand, cloth, country etc) for that to be true.

PS. If you ever go to have a bespoke suit made and they happen to have a junior/ trainee cutter doing some cutting try not to listen to the conversation. Whilst its interesting to hear them discuss how they need to adjust their lines for a customer with one dropped and forward shoulder etc it does somewhat make all of their customers sound like trolls.

I know this shouldn't matter but I can't take a brand by the name of "SuitSupply" seriously. Sounds like a warehouse/discount store like "Wholesale Liquor Supply" or "Drug Supply" or "We have everything you need Supply"

I was in a similar situation, and it became clear that Suit Supply was the clear winner in this price range. The quality seems to be better than J Crew, certainly fabrics. I don't recall if the Ludlow at J Crew is bonded or half-canvassed. If you really want something made somewhere other than China, you will probably have to bump up a price range. Anyhow, I am very happy with my Suit Supply purchase. Lots of discussion in the SuitSupply NYC thread.

There is a thread here that is solely a discussion comparing the quality of suit makers. Quite extensive. Here:

The only other option I have to throw out is that Sierra Trading Post has some great deals on some great suits quite often. If you sign up for their mailer (DealFlyer, I think) you get emails (unfortunately, every day) with coupon codes. Lots of Isaia and Hickey Freeman on there right now, usually around half price. Trouble may be finding your size.

I think the SuitSupply name is intended to be hip. All of their marketing is that way. They very clearly do not want to look or sound like a Brooks Brothers. Name doesn't bother me, I kinda like it.