Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

[TweedyProf]

I remember DonC having a youtube vid up about how to reroll lapels. It seems to work quite well for him, but it takes some effort and a good iron to do it well. Perhaps a tailor or good dry cleaner might be able to do it with satisfactory results?

Thanks for that MF. I'd be interested in seeing that vid. Also if anyone has experiences with any of the knits listed, pleased to get feedback and recommendations.

On re-rolling. The worry is that the canvas or structure in the lapel has been rolled in a way that fights the new roll or reveals itself as a small perturbation in the lapel (i.e. where it originally rolled). I'm fine on the one that I had my tailor convert, but the jacket is fighting it in its small way.

The other issue to consider is that the button hole will not always be made to show as a 3/2. That is, the sewing on the inside part of the hole might be different, less clean. This is true on my jacket (it's a second-hand made in USA Burberry London that I picked in a thrift store). Still, if Cox's was bespoke and has hand sewn button holes, maybe not a problem?

Have others here tried?

 

[Claghorn]

I have knits from Conrad Wu, Kent Wang, Howard Yount, and Henry Carter. So far, Howard Yount is the best, though I've not worn the CW enough to really get a feel for it. Kent Wang ties a good knot, but I find I struggle to get it to spread evenly (it generally rolls a bit inward until a few inches down from the knot. Henry Carter, the satin (or whatever) lining over the knit around where it loops around the neck gets pulled in the knot a lot and has come a little loose (on two of my three knits), so now I have to be realllyyy careful when tying them. Howard Yount (I have 6+) are the only ones with which I've had no qualms.

 

[jeffd]

Two weeks ago I tried re-rolling an odd jacket that I had rediscovered in the back of my closet. It was successful at first, but I took a look at it yesterday, and it has re-re-rolled itself back to its original state. I would think that to truly get the lapel to roll lower, you'd have to do some tailoring.

 

[kulata]

I am against re-rolling a hard 3 into a 3 roll 2. Most hard 3 lapels are cut a certain way and changing them to roll to the second button will mess up the look. For example if cox changes the buttoning configuration of his jacket, it will make it look seriously dated with the gorge pointing downwards.

A hard 3 jacket is fine when it is cut well.

Spoiler: Warning: Self Promo!

 

[TweedyProf]

I have knits from Conrad Wu, Kent Wang, Howard Yount, and Henry Carter. So far, Howard Yount is the best, though I've not worn the CW enough to really get a feel for it. Kent Wang ties a good knot, but I find I struggle to get it to spread evenly (it generally rolls a bit inward until a few inches down from the knot. Henry Carter, the satin (or whatever) lining over the knit around where it loops around the neck gets pulled in the knot a lot and has come a little loose (on two of my three knits), so now I have to be realllyyy careful when tying them. Howard Yount (I have 6+) are the only ones with which I've had no qualms.

Is the weave on HY's very open?

 

[TweedyProf]

A hard 3 jacket is fine when it is cut well.

Hard to argue against that.

 

[Rudals]

Mrs. Claghorn and Mrs. Noodles are also dealing with visa spending spree stuff right now.

 

[Claghorn]

Is the weave on HY's very open?

Here is a close up of a Yount:

 

[TweedyProf]

Two weeks ago I tried re-rolling an odd jacket that I had rediscovered in the back of my closet. It was successful at first, but I took a look at it yesterday, and it has re-re-rolled itself back to its original state. I would think that to truly get the lapel to roll lower, you'd have to do some tailoring.

Yes, that is what I mean by it fighting it. The jacket, if made well, was made to be a certain way and will want to return to its natural state. If it's a nice jacket, love it for what it is (cue some music here...).

It sort of works on mine because it was sort of in between a 3 and a 3/2. Easier to push it out of equilibrium to the latter.

 

[TweedyProf]

Here is a close up of a Yount:

Nice and crunchy! Can you see through it to the trousers beneath? I.e. is it more open? You don't have a lands end, I take it. That would be what I mean. Perhaps I'll post a picture when I get home.

 

[Monkeyface]

Nice and crunchy! Can you see through it to the trousers beneath? I.e. is it more open? You don't have a lands end, I take it. That would be what I mean. Perhaps I'll post a picture when I get home.

Here's a knottery knit close up. This is the zig zag weave, but I'm assuming the other ones will be relatively open as well. It ties a nice knot and the length is great, but what I like most is the 3" width. They're pretty cheap at ±$30, and I think they still have a fathers day promo code as well. I'll post a pic of the wider pointed end ones when they arrive.

EDIT: DADJEANS for 15% of until the 15th.

 

[TweedyProf]

So you finally got them? WHere are they made? Silk? Tell me more now that you have one in hand!

 

[Monkeyface]



So you finally got them? WHere are they made? Silk? Tell me more now that you have one in hand!

This is an old one, but the other ones should arrive tomorrow. No idea where they're made, but the silk looks nice, they tie a nice knot and they're cheap.

I don't like spending much for knits, as I'd rather have a lightweight grenadine for the money some of the more expensive knits go for. Knits are casual ties for me, so I don't mind it as much if they happen to get dirty or stained.

 

[in stitches]



Why? Some of their lasts are inelegant, though not all, and certainly more elegant than Alden. That being said, I doubt any "acceptable" brand has more ugly shoes out there than AE. It's a solid brand and you should own at least one pair. It'll give you some variety from your pointed G&G elf shoes.

first off, **** you and anyone else who calls my shoes elf shoes.

back to business. while i have seen plenty of fits here with AEs that look nice, i have never in my life seen a pair in person and thought to myself, "oh id like to own those." so why in the hell would i buy at least one pair? as well, i have other less aggressive lasts than my GGs, no need to buy a shoe that i know i wont like just to have something different in my closet.

long story short, you made me so mad with that post and i bet you did it on purpose. damn you to hell, you cheap hoofed bastard!!!!!

again, nothing against people who have and enjoy AE, i just personally cant get behind them, and i resent your suggestion that i buy i pair.

 

[jrd617]