Newbie-shoot: Help me critique and understand why these sports coats don't look right (pics)

MacGuffen · Oct 28, 2013

I am definitely a neophyte of things sartorial, and I humbly ask for help understanding why these sports coats don't look quite right so that I can make better purchases in the future, and/or have them altered. The last grey tweed one looks the best to my eyes, and ironically, it was the cheapest at 34 USD.

For some reason I feel they all look great in front of the mirror, but in pictures they look much worse. For instance, when I wear the first beige cotton jacket and look in the mirror, it looks like I've gained 10 pounds of muscle in the shoulders and chest. But in pictures it gives the illusion of a gut?

Apologies for the bad pictures, it was all I had time for, and my phone camera sucks. But I figured it was sufficient to roughly tell the difference between the jackets.

I can tell 4 of 5 have too long arms (the expensive 100 % wool doesn't).
And am I right in that all the jackets have too wide shoulders, as the seams are not ON TOP the shoulders but on top of the arms?

Beige 100 % cotton

100 % wool, the most expensive of the five. Arms are ok, but too tight in the waist?

Polyester/Viscose. I feel it looks the best after the grey tweed one. Arms too long again I guess?

60 % wool, tweed. Shoudlers too wide, arms too long, but I really of like the fabric and colour.

50 % wool, tweed for 34 USD. It looks the best to me, apart from the arms being too long?

unbelragazzo · Oct 28, 2013

All have buttoning points that are too high. Most too tight. Some short front balance. (All IMHO of course).

unbelragazzo · Oct 28, 2013

Also you could use a higher shirt collar. And the wider lapel jackets look better.

jrd617 · Oct 28, 2013

What unbel said

Also, the brown jacket is too short

MacGuffen · Oct 29, 2013

Thank you both for your feedback. These are all RTW, by the way. I have some more questions, if you don't mind.

Am I right in understanding that, by Saville Row tradition, the topmost button should fall at my natural waist? And higher button placement is more "modern"?

What do you guys think of the shoulders?

Unbelragazzo, what do you mean the wider lapel jackets look better? To me it looks like they all are about the same lapel width (maybe the brown being a little wider), except the beige cotton one? Or did you mean in general?

Would you agree that the last, 50 % wool grey tweed one looks the best? I'm asking because it gives me something to compare to and look for in stores.

Thanks!

unbelragazzo · Oct 29, 2013

Correct re:buttoning point

Re:lapels, I guess I meant the skinnier lapels on the top one look bad to me.

Agreed, last one is best.

Blackhood · Oct 29, 2013

In my opinion:

1. The first looks bad because it is unconstructed (it has little to no shoulder pad, and there is no structure to the front) which is fine when looking for that, but you - I believe - are looking for a clean, neat sports coat, not a super-casual jacket.

2. You have chosen coats that are either too small or too skinny (most likely). A slightly broader arm, a less tight waist and a longer jacket would all work better.

3. Consider looking for heavier fabrics and tweeds; they tend to cover up ill-fitting areas by being less prone to creasing. If you still want a tight fit, a thick wool will cover up the creasing of poor sleeve pitch and X-pulling from the buttons.

YRR92 · Oct 29, 2013

Are you standing comfortably in them, or are you puffing your chest out?

MacGuffen · Oct 29, 2013

Blackhood: Thanks for the tip! And yes, I probably chose jackets that are too skinny. But then I am European...

YRR92: I'm not actively puffing my chest, but it is perhaps very slightly raised because my left hand is raised.

I tried taking jacket 4 (green/black tweed) to a tailor to shorten the sleeves, and the tailor also said I should take in the waist. The jacket felt roomy, but I'm not sure the waist is the problem, so I'm excited to see what it will look like.

It was funny, there were 3 employees in the store and they all gathered around to look at the "fine fabric" of this jacket. "This is tweed" the tailor said to his apprentice, but no one looked at the label showing it was only 60 % wool! When I said I bought it for $34 they said whoever sold it didn't know what they were doing, hah!

Ennius · Oct 29, 2013

are you actively going for the high button stance, higher arm sockets, shorter jacket, skinny labels, tight fit look? ie the Thom Browne look?

I actually like the look (unlike most here) but consider it a fun whimsical look that will pass out of fashion in the not too distant future. It is fine for folks in the arts/fashion industry, but not in more conservative industries.

MacGuffen · Oct 30, 2013

Ennius said:
are you actively going for the high button stance, higher arm sockets, shorter jacket, skinny labels, tight fit look? ie the Thom Browne look?

Not really. I'm just terrible at judging fit (and perhaps brands). Getting better though! I can spot a good fit on pictures fairly well, but I find it's much harder when looking at myself in a store mirror.

Ivar · Oct 30, 2013

MacGuffen said:
Am I right in understanding that, by Saville Row tradition, the topmost button should fall at my natural waist? And higher button placement is more "modern"?

I don't have the book at hand, but I'm pretty sure Flusser's recommendation is to place it somewhat below the natural waist.

"When the waist button of a coat is fastened, it should divide the body so that the torso and legs appear at maximum length.....The correct placement of this critical detail occurs 1/2 inch below the natural waist. [the smallest part of the torso]"

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/...3-Would-you-say-the-button-stance-is-too-high

(Not quoted from the book, but quoted from an AAC dude quoting the book. It reads as I remember it, though.)

Personally, I like the waist button to sit on top of my belly button, but that's obviously specific to my anatomy and taste in cuts.

Newbie-shoot: Help me critique and understand why these sports coats don't look right (pics)

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