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Folded Up Shirt P0rn - Page 226

post #3376 of 4183
4/26/12 at 9:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Those extreme cutaways always strike me as the equivalent of Ed Hardy t-shirts in the bespoke shirt world. Proceed with caution.

ET and Burton - thanks for your replies.

Would you consider the photo above extreme? I remember the thread that Burton refers to - I beleive it was modeled after the Udeshi collar, (shown below) which I agree looks totally ridiculous.

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I thought the Finamore shirt shown above was cutaway but still business appropriate.

Considering your advice, would you consider the shirts below a better option? I note that the front band looks quite high on the first shirt. Can you suggest a good ratio for a collar of this shape in terms of back and front band width, collar spread and point length. Thanks.

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post #3377 of 4183
4/26/12 at 9:32am

The light-blue shirt at the very botton is perhaps the best of the lot. Though I would strong suggest you opt for a more regular spread instead - I understand the impulse to get something distinctive when you enter the bespoke world, but you'll realize over time that its best to let the fit of the garment, and other assorted 'little' details, do the talking.

 

The cutaway-spreads (incl. the Finamore) have always struck me as a bit much.

 

See if you like the one below - its my standard collar - a bit more spread that a regular English spread, but nothing crazy.

 

016.jpg

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post #3378 of 4183
4/26/12 at 1:40pm
That is a very attractive collar and I appreciate you talking me back from the leadge. It is invariably an impulse of mine when doing MTM/Bespoke to get a statement piece, even when the best thing would simply be another grey suit or blue shirt.

I will let you know how it goes and will try to post photos when they arrive
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post #3379 of 4183
4/26/12 at 2:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Those extreme cutaways always strike me as the equivalent of Ed Hardy t-shirts in the bespoke shirt world. Proceed with caution.

+1
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post #3380 of 4183
4/26/12 at 4:02pm
I just got some sample shirtings from Acorn, and while I love the King AQ ginghams, I'm not wowed by the Oxford 50's x 2/24s or the 100% linens. Which weavers, in your opinion(s), make the best oxford broadcloth or linen?
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post #3381 of 4183
4/26/12 at 6:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by LEVOOSH View Post

That is a very attractive collar and I appreciate you talking me back from the leadge. It is invariably an impulse of mine when doing MTM/Bespoke to get a statement piece, even when the best thing would simply be another grey suit or blue shirt.

I will let you know how it goes and will try to post photos when they arrive
There's a poster here, Cayman I believe is his screen name, who posted some cutaway collar pics and I thought they looked ridiculously bad.
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post #3382 of 4183
4/26/12 at 8:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Those extreme cutaways always strike me as the equivalent of Ed Hardy t-shirts in the bespoke shirt world. Proceed with caution.

+1


I agree with you both. I would get some simple classic styled collars to start and work from there.
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post #3383 of 4183
4/26/12 at 8:25pm

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by imatlas View Post

I just got some sample shirtings from Acorn, and while I love the King AQ ginghams, I'm not wowed by the Oxford 50's x 2/24s or the 100% linens. Which weavers, in your opinion(s), make the best oxford broadcloth or linen?

 

 I've had the opposite experience - their 100s (Grange and King) are meh, but their oxfords are pretty nice. I find no need to get fancy with oxford cloth, and think the simple, coarse stuff is sufficient.

 

As for linen, I've had good luck with Grandi & Rubinelli.

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post #3384 of 4183
4/29/12 at 12:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by LEVOOSH View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Burton View Post

My shirts were, as all of mine are, made by Joe Hemrajani. I have a great relationship with him and he is very reasonably priced. I learned of Joe through Will of ASW. Joe will do anything you like with a shirt and, once he has your measurements, his turnaround time is outstanding--4 weeks for the above.

Burton - I have made an appointment to see Joe in the middle of May.

I reviewed their collar choices and wanted to know if you had used a custom desi

gned collar with Mytailor. I asked Joe and he said to bring in a picture and if possible a cardboard cutout of the collar shape, but if not possible then a picture would suffice.

Have you (or anyone else feel free to chime in) done a custom collar design with mytailor? How has it turned out?

I've attached a picture of the collar shape I am interested in so if anyone has a Finamore with a similar collar shape I'd greatly appreciate helping me with the dimensions as well.

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I like this collar. try it
Avoid udeshi
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post #3385 of 4183
4/29/12 at 10:48pm
nice one! I'll be contributing to this thread myself in a few days, will finally get to see the new kitons and a patterned isaia MTM from my last nyc visit!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post


See if you like the one below - its my standard collar - a bit more spread that a regular English spread, but nothing crazy.

350x624px-LL-9aeba1a5_016.jpeg
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post #3386 of 4183
4/30/12 at 4:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by imatlas View Post

I just got some sample shirtings from Acorn, and while I love the King AQ ginghams, I'm not wowed by the Oxford 50's x 2/24s or the 100% linens. Which weavers, in your opinion(s), make the best oxford broadcloth or linen?

 I've had the opposite experience - their 100s (Grange and King) are meh, but their oxfords are pretty nice. I find no need to get fancy with oxford cloth, and think the simple, coarse stuff is sufficient.

As for linen, I've had good luck with Grandi & Rubinelli.

Thanks! Just placed an order for a length of G&R linen from badsha.

I seem to remember someone posting a link to the company that makes oxford cloth for BB, does anyone have that link or company name handy?
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post #3387 of 4183
4/30/12 at 4:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by imatlas View Post

Thanks! Just placed an order for a length of G&R linen from badsha.
I seem to remember someone posting a link to the company that makes oxford cloth for BB, does anyone have that link or company name handy?

It's Supima. If anyone knows how to order cloth from them, I would definitely be interested to know
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post #3388 of 4183
4/30/12 at 4:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by johanm View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by imatlas View Post

Thanks! Just placed an order for a length of G&R linen from badsha.
I seem to remember someone posting a link to the company that makes oxford cloth for BB, does anyone have that link or company name handy?

It's Supima. If anyone knows how to order cloth from them, I would definitely be interested to know

I don't think that's it...looks like Supima is a grower's coop or something similar. They produce the cotton, but somebody else weaves it into oxford cloth.
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post #3389 of 4183
4/30/12 at 4:43pm
Supima is a type of cotton as well. If you want nice Oxford cloth just look for the big mills like Canclini, Albini Group, Alumo, SIC Tess, etc.
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post #3390 of 4183
4/30/12 at 4:48pm
I'm specifically looking for sturdy, thick oxford cloth like the classic BB OCBD. None of that namby-pamby Royal Oxford, thankyouverymuch!
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