• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

lotmoon_uk

Active Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2007
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Hi, I'm graduating soon and therefore currently in the hunt for a suit which I'd wear to my graduation, interviews, work..etc

I live in the UK, and I went to my local TKMAXX yesterday and tried on a light grey suit by Valentino. To be honest, I'm quite clueless in determining whether a suit's quality is good or not. Having read a little bit about fused/canvassed suits on SF. I attempted to perform the 'pinch test' on some of the suits there to see if they were fused, canvassed..etc, but I'm not sure if I'm 'feeling' the garment correctly as all the suits I felt are thicker at the front (above the lapel) and none of the suits felt as thin at the front as it is at the back of the jackets. Does this mean those suits are all fused? The brands I 'tested' included YSL, Calvin Klein, Remus, Daks, Valentino, William Hunt, D&G...and some other brands (that I can remember)... although the Valentino suit (130pounds.. about US$270) felt thinner (above the lapel) than most of the other suits I tested. Does that mean it is canvassed? Is Valentino suits any good in terms of quality?

To my understanding, the fit of the suit is most important especially the shoulder fit because it cannot be altered. Apart from fit and fused/canvass, is there anything I should pay attention to when buying a suit?


Thanks in advance,
 

lotmoon_uk

Active Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2007
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
I just came across this in another thread, I thinkI might have pinched the wrong bit! Damn!

Pinch test: Pinch the cloth beneath the jacket's bottom buttonhole on both the inside and out. Gently pull apart. If you can feel a third layer inside, then the jacket's fully canvassed.
 

gnatty8

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Nov 12, 2006
Messages
12,663
Reaction score
6,204
The shoulder fit can pretty easily be altered (within reason) by a competent tailor.
 

AvariceBespoke

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2007
Messages
1,068
Reaction score
2
Originally Posted by lotmoon_uk
Does this mean those suits are all fused? The brands I 'tested' included YSL, Calvin Klein, Remus, Daks, Valentino, William Hunt, D&G...and some other brands (that I can remember)... although the Valentino suit (130pounds.. about US$270) felt thinner (above the lapel) than most of the other suits I tested. Does that mean it is canvassed? Is Valentino suits any good in terms of quality?

To my understanding, the fit of the suit is most important especially the shoulder fit because it cannot be altered. Apart from fit and fused/canvass, is there anything I should pay attention to when buying a suit?


Thanks in advance,


all of those suits are fused - they are not high-level construction

You probably will not find a suit that is not fused for less than $1000USD
 

Tomasso

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
4,067
Reaction score
19
Originally Posted by gnatty8
The shoulder fit can pretty easily be altered (within reason) by a competent tailor.
If a jacket does not fit your shoulders, put it down and walk away. It's a can of worms that's best left closed.
 

tiger02

Militarist
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
3,733
Reaction score
3
Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke
all of those suits are fused - they are not high-level construction

You probably will not find a suit that is not fused for less than $1000USD

Unless it is made by forum member GetSmart.
 

chobochobo

Rubber Chicken
Dubiously Honored
Moderator
Joined
May 7, 2006
Messages
8,108
Reaction score
2,582
The Dolce and Gabbana suits that I saw at TK Maxx looked to be better value.
 

rach2jlc

Prof. Fabulous
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 14, 2006
Messages
14,663
Reaction score
1,162
I agree with most of what has been said above. At full retail, Valentino (like most any other fashion brand) is absurdly overpriced.

For 130 pounds, it's probably worth it. Though of course fit should be prime (don't get into the aforementioned "can of worms" buying a suit that doesn't fit right just because it is a good deal; I did that once in college with a Gucci suit and it just isn't the way to go) , overall quality wise they're fairly close.

They're all fused (that I've seen), but generally with decent fabrics and cuts. I'm with Tor that given a choice, I like Dolce&Gabbana, but for some colors... a solid light grey or navy... Valentino does a nice suit with a great cut that can be flattering for some body shapes. Keep in mind also that there are several different lines and quality levels within Valentino; the mainline will just say "Valentino," but there is also a lower price/quality diffusion called "Valentino Roma." It is still probably worth it at 130 pounds, but I wouldn't pay any more than that.
 

gnatty8

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Nov 12, 2006
Messages
12,663
Reaction score
6,204
Originally Posted by Tomasso
If a jacket does not fit your shoulders, put it down and walk away. It's a can of worms that's best left closed.

Disagree. Any competent tailor can fix it. I have very "square" shoulders so very few suits or sportcoats ever fit my shoulders off the rack. If I took your advice, I would never be able to wear many of what have become my favorite suits, since the shoulders fit horribly, but my very competent tailor made the fit perfect.
 

lotmoon_uk

Active Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2007
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by rach2jlc
I agree with most of what has been said above. At full retail, Valentino (like most any other fashion brand) is absurdly overpriced.

For 130 pounds, it's probably worth it. Though of course fit should be prime (don't get into the aforementioned "can of worms" buying a suit that doesn't fit right just because it is a good deal; I did that once in college with a Gucci suit and it just isn't the way to go) , overall quality wise they're fairly close.

They're all fused (that I've seen), but generally with decent fabrics and cuts. I'm with Tor that given a choice, I like Dolce&Gabbana, but for some colors... a solid light grey or navy... Valentino does a nice suit with a great cut that can be flattering for some body shapes. Keep in mind also that there are several different lines and quality levels within Valentino; the mainline will just say "Valentino," but there is also a lower price/quality diffusion called "Valentino Roma." It is still probably worth it at 130 pounds, but I wouldn't pay any more than that.


First of all, thanks to everyone who replied.

umm.. So I learned that its probably quite impossible to buy a canvassed suit for less than US$1000. As I'm only a student my budget is very limited... maximum I'll probably pay for a suit would be 200 pounds. So it seems like my only option is to go with a fused suit then find a good tailor to alter the fit.

Oh and indeed, the Valentino suit was from its "Roma" line. I really like the solid light grey, but I'll have a look at other options first before I make any decision. The Dolce and Gabbana suit looks nice too, but its priced at 300 pounds! Can't really justify myself spending 300 quid on a suit in TKs!

Anybody have advice on places to go for nice quality stylish suit that I can afford within my budget would be great! Thks again
rotflmao.gif
 

AnGeLiCbOrIs

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2006
Messages
4,802
Reaction score
129
If you get lucky you can find a fully canvassed "Giorgio Andreani" suit at Burlington for $189. I think it was a one shot relabel of some other brand a few months ago since they are getting harder to find. I have two and I love them. Their new Fumagalli suits do not compare in any respect.
 

tiger02

Militarist
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
3,733
Reaction score
3
Originally Posted by lotmoon_uk
Just looked up for GetSmart's website (http://www.thickasthievesla.com/home.html), I really dig their one button suit looks really slim fitting and the inclined pockets looks cool too! Can anyone comment on the quality and fit of their suit? Defintely considerable.
rolleyes.gif

There's a thread in the streetwear forum with a ton of reviews. They range from "great for the money" to simply "great." Customer service, as with most board affiliated sellers, is incredible. Mine is on its way. Re: shoulders, what your (gnatty's) tailor was doing was actually taking up fabric from under the collar. When Tommasso says stay away from suits that don't fit in the shoulders, he means width and possibly armhole diameter, which are not worth the cost of alterations.
 

chobochobo

Rubber Chicken
Dubiously Honored
Moderator
Joined
May 7, 2006
Messages
8,108
Reaction score
2,582
The reason the Dolce and Gabbana suits are more expensive are because they're much nicer - they're canvassed, I checked
smile.gif
I was tempted but the cloth looked too much like something I already have ('Super Worsted' Oxxford) though the cut is obviously very different. If the Dolce fits you well, it'd be a better buy than the 200 pound suit with alterations.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 92 37.2%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 90 36.4%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 27 10.9%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 42 17.0%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.4%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,997
Messages
10,593,265
Members
224,352
Latest member
glycogenbp
Top