The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

YRR92 · Apr 4, 2013

mafoofan said:
Nah, I like it myself. My OCBDs are all without plackets. But I'd be willing to suffer them on an OCBD.

Does no placket imply no pocket, for you?

No offense meant to jchosko, but I can't seem to get down with the french-front shirt with pocket. Of course, I kinda like plackets, so clearly I have unsophisticated tastes.

hws · Apr 5, 2013

YRR92 said:
Does no placket imply no pocket, for you?

No offense meant to jchosko, but I can't seem to get down with the french-front shirt with pocket. Of course, I kinda like plackets, so clearly I have unsophisticated tastes.

Mariano will no like you!

Raison Matuozzo is famous is much year before she make work for Rubinacci! Rubinacci famous for to make costume for other Naples man (now much Japanese, American, also other) for to make pretense of British aristocrat, old money sensation!

quar · Apr 5, 2013

patrickBOOTH said:
Tonight before ironing I figured I would snap a few pics of my OneShirt. It is Acorn's Cambridge fabric. They call it a summer pinpoint, but I find it perfect for all situations. It is a 3/80 x 3/80 weave, which essentially makes it very durable. Here are a few close up shots so you can see how open the weave is. When it is on it doesn't seem transparent at all, but when up close and held up to the light it is similar to the light high twist fresco. This is essentially a fresco cotton. Wearing fresco in the summer with this shirting I can't imagine one can be any cooler. As a sweaty guinea I like this stuff year round because, well, I am always warm. The downside to this shirting is it isn't very cheap. Also, due to the open weave this shirting does shrink a good amount.

I love this fabric. I have it in white also.

It is not expensive. It runs about 45USD / shirt, when the fabric is bought directly from the Acorn website.

Ivar · Apr 5, 2013

Here's another nay for French plackets. Especially on chambray shirts. Shirting is nice, though.

patrickBOOTH · Apr 5, 2013

I think French plackets look cheap. Reminds me of the Express shirts or something.

@quar, that is strange because my shirts end up crazy expensive with this fabric from my tailor. I will talk to him about it today.

YRR92 · Apr 5, 2013

patrickBOOTH said:
I think French plackets look cheap. Reminds me of the Express shirts or something.

@quar, that is strange because my shirts end up crazy expensive with this fabric from my tailor. I will talk to him about it today.

This is my gut reaction, but I'm beginning to wonder if this isn't so much "french plackets look inherently cheap" as it is "cheap shirts often have french plackets."

Of course, my favorite option is the narrow-stitched English style placket.

patrickBOOTH · Apr 5, 2013

Well, when I was at my tailor once he was wearing a shirt with a pattern from Acorn that I used to own back in the day when I wore colors and his had a French placket. I thought it made the shirt look cheap. It also just looks unfinished, which I guess is a derivative of cheap.

Ataturk · Apr 5, 2013

No placket is a lot easier to make and requires less fabric, especially on patterned shirts.

patrickBOOTH · Apr 5, 2013

That's great, but it is still ugly.

FLMountainMan · Apr 5, 2013

mafoofan said:
But doesn't doubling up on lightweight breathable fabric like voile defeat the purpose of using it in the first place?

Not exactly on point, but I live in Florida and wear a good amount of lightweight fabric. I always feel silly doubling up (which I usually do), but I find it necessary to protect the fabric from sweat and (especially) deodorant.

JPHardy · Apr 5, 2013

PB, I would have taken you for a french placket kind of guy with your dress shirts. Your style is pretty clean and austere.

But you did throw me for a loop with the Burberry trench.

patrickBOOTH · Apr 5, 2013

Just looks unfinished to me.

TheFoo · Apr 5, 2013

I just received a swatch of the "old" Simonnot Godard chambray in the mail. Here is old versus new, side-by-side:

Not even remotely the same kind of shirting. For better or worse, the old-style is clearly much more irregular--both in the weaving and coloration. If you look carefully, the dye density in the blue yarns varies quite a bit. In contrast, the blue yarns in the new-style chambray appear to have taken the dye much more evenly.

aravenel · Apr 5, 2013

What kind of scale is that?

dopey · Apr 5, 2013

If I were only having one shirt made, I would take the old. If I were getting six made, I would take the new.

The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

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