Highest-Quality Shoe Report Card (Lattanzi, Bontoni, Lobb Kiton, Berluti)

Thanks for posting your shoe experiences. I look forward to seeing pictures.

Welcome to the Forvm, Englishtea. I'd rank Vass #1 in the price/quality category. I am not too impressed with Botoni, don't know why you rank it so highly.

Originally Posted by horton

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Matt I generally respect your opinion. What's the basis for the comment for Bontoni? I've seen/held them but never inspected them closely and to be frank don't have enough expertise (like many people here) to know precisely what I should be inspecting them for other than looks (and hoping they were well made).

The one's I've seen looked good. What gives?
I think that they are shoes that are finished with very nice antiquing but that they lack quality construction. First of all, many of them are blake stitched, which is not a problem, but unusual for a shoe that runs 1k. Second of all they do not have hidden sole stitching which, to me, is a very important feature and one that makes a shoe looked finished. When compared to Vass or Lattanzi which are truly handmade shoes with excellent finishing, a machine stitched (even when done Goodyear) shoe with exposed stitching doesn't really rate.

Originally Posted by iammatt

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I think that they are shoes that are finished with very nice antiquing but that they lack quality construction. First of all, many of them are blake stitched, which is not a problem, but unusual for a shoe that runs 1k. Second of all they do not have hidden sole stitching which, to me, is a very important feature and one that makes a shoe looked finished. When compared to Vass or Lattanzi which are truly handmade shoes with excellent finishing, a machine stitched (even when done Goodyear) shoe with exposed stitching doesn't really rate.

Thanks.

I have several pairs of sutors that I'm told are top line and that I can easily see the stitching. I happen to like the look and thought there was a name for the style (Norvegese sp? but maybe I'm wrong) . Are these too slightly inferior construction technique? Again I happen to like an ever so slight gunboat style.

ALso is the issue with the blake stuff (I think I've been told some Bonora of mine are Blake) not so much the quality but for the quality/price ratio?

I still vividly recall a split toe light brown/tanish Bontoni at Louis that I think I'll never forget (I've been told that lighter shades of brown best reflect the patina and antinquing one can get)

Last question and a little off topic: this summer I do Italy for two weeks. WHat/who would you recommend for a sportsjacket and shoes. I will be bouncing arouond throughout country but probably not in any place long enough for bespoke. Could do one fitting or measurement (MTM)?

Thanks and sorry for the barrage

Originally Posted by Englishtea

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There is no question Lattanzi makes a great shoe. His styling and coloring, however, is no longer what is used to be. Have you ever seen his factory? He's a character...
Isn't it the Zintala factory? Lattanzi RTW is very expensive so I don't know about any "value". As for Bontoni, their elaborate, over-worked soles are off-putting. In fact, any of those over-worked--Baroque if we will--surfaces that aims to project an aura of artisnal quality are off-putting.

Originally Posted by LabelKing

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As for Bontoni, their elaborate, over-worked soles are off-putting. In fact, any of those over-worked--Baroque if we will--surfaces that aims to project an aura of artisnal quality are off-putting.


Ouch!-10 for Bontoni

Originally Posted by horton

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Thanks.

I have several pairs of sutors that I'm told are top line and that I can easily see the stitching. I happen to like the look and thought there was a name for the style (Norvegese sp? but maybe I'm wrong) . Are these too slightly inferior construction technique? Again I happen to like an ever so slight gunboat style.


what iammatt meant was the channeled sole or lack thereof on the bontonis.

if you look on the bottom of the shoe , the sole, like allen edmonds, you can see the stitching around the sole on a bontoni and benchmade cj.

the norvogese or bentivegna line of santoni or mantellassi with the sort of weave or stitch above the sole edge that is visible to the eye when the shoe is on the floor, that is a different story.

Thanks for the report. I love Berlutis and I agree, their patina is hard to beat. Nice to have a shoe connoisseur in the forum

The Iammatt mentioned Stefano Branchini as a value alternative.

There's also Stefano Bemer.

I'm a bit confused by a "fit" category for bespoke shoes?

Originally Posted by von Rothbart

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Welcome to the Forvm, Englishtea. I'd rank Vass #1 in the price/quality category. I am not too impressed with Botoni, don't know why you rank it so highly.

Yop... I have to agree with that. Why Bontoni more than Bestetti in Milan, Scafora in Napoli or Ugolini in Firenze ??
And I wouldn't rank Berluti so high as for the leather quality, either...

Originally Posted by LabelKing

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The Iammatt mentioned Stefano Branchini as a value alternative.

There's also Stefano Bemer.
Ugolini not Branchini. Yes, he is cheaper, and better than most of those on the last, but that is just my initial impression as my shoes are not done.

Originally Posted by Christofuh

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Damn, that is one ugly pair of shoes!

i really appreciated the site and the effort. just terrific. i, too, was wondering why EG didn't make the cut.
thank you, again,
john