whnay.'s good taste thread

[Cantabrigian]

Hmm. What do you mean by not worsted? A blazer should be made out of a worsted cloth.

A blazer, if anything, should distinctly not be worsted.

Without some texture (hopsack, fresco, even flannel), it looks like a suitcoat. Blazers also like patch pockets and patch pockets on a worsted cloth always looks wrong (Phat Guido notwithstanding).

 

[dieworkwear]

I think people are mistaking what worsted means. You can have a textured worsted, like worsted flannel (which would have a defined twill weave, btw). Worsted does not automatically mean shiny suit fabric.

http://kws.atlantia.sca.org/Woolen_vs_Worsted_Explained.pdf

 

[TheFoo]



A blazer, if anything, should distinctly not be worsted.

Without some texture (hopsack, fresco, even flannel), it looks like a suitcoat. Blazers also like patch pockets and patch pockets on a worsted cloth always looks wrong (Phat Guido notwithstanding).

Hopsack and fresco are worsted cloths. They just have more open weaves.

I think a flannel blazer is an oddball garment.

I think people are mistaking what worsted means. You can have a textured worsted, like worsted flannel (which would have a defined twill weave, btw). Worsted does not automatically mean shiny suit fabric.

http://kws.atlantia.sca.org/Woolen_vs_Worsted_Explained.pdf

I am not mistaking anything. I understand the difference. And I am also familiar with worsted flannels. I own two suits made of the stuff. Yes, you can find the twill weave, but you have to look closely. From normal viewing distance (say, three to five feet away), you shouldn't be able to see it.

Now look at the "flannel" separates at Land's End. That is clearly not a worsted flannel. It has none of the brushed texture you would expect to find over the twill base.

 

[dieworkwear]

What are we talking about? This?

http://www.landsend.com/pp/mens-tailored-wool-flannel-coat~227397_-1.html

Without feeling it, that looks like it could be worsted flannel to me.

 

[TheFoo]



What are we talking about? This?

http://www.landsend.com/pp/mens-tailored-wool-flannel-coat~227397_-1.html

Without feeling it, that looks like it could be worsted flannel to me.

Yes. Look at the close-up of the cloth. If you were told nothing, would you say it were a worsted flannel? I sincerely doubt it. And if it is a worsted flannel, and barely brushed with barely any flannel texture at all, it is only technically worsted flannel, and certainly would not suffice for a classic "grey flannel suit."

 

[Apollotrader]

Some people, even those with massive amounts of excellent knowledge, would do well with a nice tall cool glass of polish with a sidecar of tact once in a while.

 

[Tirailleur1]

Yes. Look at the close-up of the cloth. If you were told nothing, would you say it were a worsted flannel? I sincerely doubt it. And if it is a worsted flannel, and barely brushed with barely any flannel texture at all, it is only technically worsted flannel, and certainly would not suffice for a classic "grey flannel suit."

I would assume that it would be terribly presumptuous for one to clearly tell fabrication from the computer screen.

But then again you are foo... you are always right.

 

[dieworkwear]



Yes. Look at the close-up of the cloth. If you were told nothing, would you say it were a worsted flannel? I sincerely doubt it. And if it is a worsted flannel, and barely brushed with barely any flannel texture at all, it is only technically worsted flannel, and certainly would not suffice for a classic "grey flannel suit."

Yea, I've seen swatches of worsted flannel with degrees of nappy-ness (is that a PC term?). Some look like the Lands End one. I assume that's just a super up-close shot. Look how big the twill weave is. If you zoomed in on some worsted flannel, it would look like that.

Anyway, regarding charcoal pants - whatever you guys think of Foo's delivery, I think he's more or less right. I don't think it's bad to own one or two pairs in the closet. I do. But they get worn maybe two or three times a year? Most well dressed gentlemen I know also rarely charcoal pants. That doesn't mean you'll look bad in charcoal pants, it simply means that FME, most well dressed men I know rarely wear them.

 

[aravenel]



Anyway, regarding charcoal pants - whatever you guys think of Foo's delivery, I think he's more or less right. I don't think it's bad to own one or two pairs in the closet. I do. But they get worn maybe two or three times a year? Most well dressed gentlemen I know also rarely charcoal pants. That doesn't mean you'll look bad in charcoal pants, it simply means that FME, most well dressed men I know rarely wear them.

Definitely agree, though like you, I am not as vehement as :foo:. I have a couple of pairs, and don't wear them often. Mid-grey is where its at.

 

[Tirailleur1]

Yea, I've seen swatches of worsted flannel with degrees of nappy-ness (is that a PC term?). Some look like the Lands End one. I assume that's just a super up-close shot. Look how big the twill weave is. If you zoomed in on some worsted flannel, it would look like that.

Anyway, regarding charcoal pants - whatever you guys think of Foo's delivery, I think he's more or less right. I don't think it's bad to own one or two pairs in the closet. I do. But they get worn maybe two or three times a year? Most well dressed gentlemen I know also rarely charcoal pants. That doesn't mean you'll look bad in charcoal pants, it simply means that FME, most well dressed men I know rarely wear them.

That is different from CHARCOAL PANTS ARE BAD AND ALL OF YOU ARE IGNORANT PLEBS LISTEN TO ME

I personally wouldn't necessarily wear charcoal pants myself, but I have seen them executed well. You might rarely wear yours. But I am sure that there are many things in your closet that your rarely wear as well.

 

[Tirailleur1]

Definitely agree, though like you, I am not as vehement as

. I have a couple of pairs, and don't wear them often. Mid-grey is where its at.

I'm a mid-grey guy myself. But I do have a charcoal suit.

 

[Patrick R]

Quote:
I don't wear charcoal pants with coat and tie. But they are great with lighter colored sweaters.

 

[dieworkwear]

It stands as good advice though: if you're just starting to build a wardrobe, you should not buy navy or charcoal trousers before having a bunch of lights and mid-greys in the closet, in different weaves and weights. You may be the exception to this rule and look great in those trous, but one things is for sure: you will be building an unorthodox wardrobe, and then find it difficult to use a lot of the other advice given on here. That seems like it will just make things harder on yourself for no reason.

 

[etkl]



Yea, I've seen swatches of worsted flannel with degrees of nappy-ness (is that a PC term?). Some look like the Lands End one. I assume that's just a super up-close shot. Look how big the twill weave is. If you zoomed in on some worsted flannel, it would look like that.

Anyway, regarding charcoal pants - whatever you guys think of Foo's delivery, I think he's more or less right. I don't think it's bad to own one or two pairs in the closet. I do. But they get worn maybe two or three times a year? Most well dressed gentlemen I know also rarely charcoal pants. That doesn't mean you'll look bad in charcoal pants, it simply means that FME, most well dressed men I know rarely wear them.

I have no quibble with your experience or tone but my experience is quite the opposite and I wear regularly wear charcoal pants, for example, with a black and white glen plaid sportcoat. Moreover every swatchbook of trousering I've ever seen includes variations of charcoal in worsted and/or flannel.

 

[aravenel]



It stands as good advice though: if you're just starting to build a wardrobe, you should not buy navy or charcoal trousers before having a bunch of lights and mid-greys in the closet, in different weaves and weights. You may be the exception to this rule and look great in those trous, but one things is for sure: you will be building an unorthodox wardrobe, and then find it difficult to use a lot of the other advice given on here. That seems like it will just make things harder on yourself for no reason.

Absolutely agree with this.

Charcoal trousers can work--with a light grey SC (which is hard to pull off in and of itself), or sometimes with sweaters. But yeah, they are not particularly versatile, are hard to do well, and I rarely wear mine for these reasons. And like you, I would not advise newbies to buy them. Mid grey, mid grey, mid grey, maybe some shade of brown.

Honestly, mine probably get worn the most when I do something dumb like mistakenly take all my mid-greys to the cleaners at the same time. Whoops.