Yohji AW 2012/2013 is tomorrow in Paris!
Here's the live link
on Nowfashion.com. Should be showing at 6pm GMT +1.
Looking forward to this immensely. I ended up with an inordinate amount of pieces from his AW11 collection and I still have about 3 or 4 I am hunting down in a size 4. Anyone want to speculate about what the collection tomorrow could be like?
Here's my 'fashion write-up'
We went from Spring 2011 where Yohji said people were not dressing up any more and so he went full on formal and OTT referencing a time in Western cultures that men dressed up and were expected to. Lots of colour and patterns and a much slimmer style than usually associated with Yohji. Breeches, tail coats, top hats and floral patterned suits were the order of the day here. Considering all the trouble Yohji and his company had been going through not long before, it felt like Yohji letting loose once more and showing renewed vigor.
Then AW11 came with a more muted palette and mood. Yohji dwelled on mortality and a particular kind of honest masculinity tinged with vulnerability (one of the models even had a handkerchief he was using to mop his sweating brow). He added a shirt/jacket hybrid to his repertoire of clothing forms and played with the nature and definition of some pieces (shirt-jacket hybrids, cardigans with what looked like other cardigans underneath, coats with double lapels, cardigans with blazer lapels etc.).
SS12 brought volume back to Spring and in what a way! Hakama-inspired and tapered "ninja" pants were the predominant trousers in this collection. Yohji blended East & West to execute another take on the traditional suit and bring a casual ease to Spring. His models were not men in skirts, but they were not far off.
Is there any progressive thread one could follow here? Are we looking at more colour? Less colour? More skirts? Reduced volume? A reiteration of a past collection? A new collaboration? Yohji had said there were going to be new projects unveiled soon - we saw s'yte last year. Could this season be the one where he unveils a new facet of the revitalised YY?? Will we get more erotic print coats??? Will Yohji get women to walk down the catwalk in men's clothes again???!!
Tomorrow we shall have all the answers (and hopefully get a good collection to boot