Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

yeah come on lads, the thread needs more fit photos. valter, asobu, pick etc...



davidlee388 said:

Gloomy and stormy yesterday, so went out with this SS06 set-up

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

YYPH SS06 Look 25 Rayon Coat ( HR-C04-200 ) Size 2, 100% rayon, the blackest of black, soft handed, thin, smooth fabric. Fully reversible, double-sided black metal buttons. 4B closure, the front side is a conventional long coat with small peak lapels, 2 side pockets, long back vent, small buttonless sleeves and a removable buckle waist strap. The " wrong " side ( the side I wear more ) has the Yohji magic. 4 large 3-D zipped pockets at the front ( the chest ones make the lapels smaller still ) and 2 more at the sides, 6 in total. Sewn-in unequal length studded straps at the waist. The soft fabric lends it great motion, at the same time manages to hold its silhouette for a coat that is not light ( with all the pockets, strap etc ). Astonishing construction.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

YYPH SS06 Multi Pocket Pants ( HR-P55-100 ) - not a typo, they are not from SS01. 100% wool, size 2, regular fit, 2 usual hidden side pockets and a buttoned one on left back. Additional big flapped " pouch " with buttons on left front, twin flapped one on right front. Huge flapped 3-D patch pocket at right rear completes the complicated construction. Classically tailored pants with utilitarian inspiration.

Black SS Tee, CDG H+ Belt and Y-3 Hejarklack Hi-tops.

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David great coat and cool pants too. You keep posting these beautiful pieces.

I remember reading that Rayon has this bright sheen quality to it, when searching because of my Ramie/Rayon jacket and I've avoided 100% Rayon garments because of this (personal preference). Your jacket doesn't seem to have this sheen, could you please confirm this?
Perhaps the sheen can be controlled with certain processes or treatments? I think this can be done with Silk as well?

Just sent an email to Shinagawa requesting info about the HW code of my jacket. Wonder if I'll get a reply.

Cupper, the 100% rayon on the coat has a very smooth, soft hand finish, if anything it looks very matt black than sheeny ( to me at least ). However my wife has a YYF AW10 100% rayon shirt that has the same touch but looks much more sheeny ( which she likes ) so perhaps like you said it can be manipulated when used as a shirting fabric rather than a jacket/coat. Or my coat is just old lol being 2006....

I always post my stuff with descriptions hoping to show the garments in the best possible ways so YY fans can get an insight to how his stuff are constructed and specified. They look a bit like sales pitch ( sorry guys ) but if I don't own certain pieces I fancy I would like to know everything about them so if I come across them in auctions I can go for them with confidence, So if there's no boycott I'll continue to show my stuff

Matsuoka Seigo, Yohji-san, and some other dude, in hakamas

asobu said:

Matsuoka Seigo, Yohji-san, and some other dude, in hakamas

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Haha, I was just about to post this picture, you beat me to it man! Doesn't Yohji-san wear the Hakama Pants long? He looks super-cool though



davidlee388 said:

Cupper, the 100% rayon on the coat has a very smooth, soft hand finish, if anything it looks very matt black than sheeny ( to me at least ). However my wife has a YYF AW10 100% rayon shirt that has the same touch but looks much more sheeny ( which she likes ) so perhaps like you said it can be manipulated when used as a shirting fabric rather than a jacket/coat. Or my coat is just old lol being 2006....

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David, thanks, good to know 100% rayon can be matt as well.

davidlee388 said:

I always post my stuff with descriptions hoping to show the garments in the best possible ways so YY fans can get an insight to how his stuff are constructed and specified. They look a bit like sales pitch ( sorry guys ) but if I don't own certain pieces I fancy I would like to know everything about them so if I come across them in auctions I can go for them with confidence, So if there's no boycott I'll continue to show my stuff

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Please do Looking forward to your next top 5 as well.

SS12 silk jacket. Same cut as the one david posted just a few posts back but in printed silk.

SS11 shirt/waistcoat hybrid (HO - Y04 - 807). Sleeves are made from a different cotton than the main body of the shirt, being closer to a jersey/tshirt style cotton. It has two straps at the back that can be tightened to alter the silhouette and make it fit more like a waistcoat. The collar is also asymmetric with two buttons under the lower one.


Every time I wear this I always feel like either it shrunk or I put on weight then I finish up all the buttons and it feels fine. Very weird, lol. Probably means I could stand to lose some pounds though. Need to get back on a proper diet and exercise regime. Sigh.

AW10 button pants in 103 wool gabardine. A bit heavier than the 100 wool gabardine but with a great hang and drape one of my favourite pants. Four buttons down the sides at the bottom of the pants and an interesting square-shaped stitched fold at the bottom that helps give these pants their taper. I believe david also has these pants in a different fabric?

AW12 Ann Demeulemeester high top sneakers.

All of the YY pieces are size 4.

Also david, I doubt anyone would complain about your detailed posts, please continue. It is what I was hoping would happen actually as the more information we can compile in this thread, the better it would be for others who may be interested in certain pieces, how they hang, sizing, fabric hand etc. Pictures can only do so much after all.

Wow Ivwri, that was a super super fit!! Discussion was made earlier about the Inverted Collar Blazer's 4-buttoned cuffs being hefty, are your silk iteration ones quite wide as well? Think we have to bear in mind that whilst a size 4 sleeves can be up to 5cm longer than a size 2's, the cuffs will be the same parts used regardless of size I believe. So a size 2 sleeve cuffs will tend to bunch up a bit more because my forearms are way shorter than yours but the cuffs are the same...see what I mean? Your silk version is the creme da la creme iteration though ( wish I had the dosh to justify one ). It has shoulder pads as well?

We Yohji fans tend to have all the best stuff haha. Incidentally I have the same SS11 shirt/hybrid, albeit in size 3 ( size 2 sold out in the sale last year in Conduit ). The jersey sleeves are almost greyish blue in colour. Have you tried button the collar over to the 2nd button on the right ( make it tighter ) then fold the collar down to create another look?

Yes the pants I posted with the AW08 Handstitched in navy, in a cotton/linen blend ( can't remember exactly )....

Yup it has shoulder pads and you're right about the cuffs. On mine they don't seem as pronounced as on yours probably for the reasons you stated above. I don't mind them so much in your fit though .

As for the shirt/waistcoat, I have never actually done that before! Just tried it out now and love how it changes the look of the collar completely. Very cool!

Actually, this is one thing I really love about Yohji's clothing. There's always this whole myriad of ways that they can be worn so you can keep on messing about with them and coming up with new configurations. Lol.

I've got a sample piece of that S/S2011 shirt/waistcoat hybrid also in black cotton, but it doesn't have the two extra buttons under the collar.

The code is the same (HO-Y04-807-1-3).

Ivwri said:

Yup it has shoulder pads and you're right about the cuffs. On mine they don't seem as pronounced as on yours probably for the reasons you stated above. I don't mind them so much in your fit though

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As for the shirt/waistcoat, I have never actually done that before! Just tried it out now and love how it changes the look of the collar completely. Very cool!
Actually, this is one thing I really love about Yohji's clothing. There's always this whole myriad of ways that they can be worn so you can keep on messing about with them and coming up with new configurations. Lol.

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Haha the mystique of Yohji clothing. The collar was actually styled that way in a few Looks on the SS11 Runway if I remember rightly. Thing I like about Yohji stuff is everything is there for a reason, we just have to figure it out, the clothes don't come with operation manuals

cupper said:

David, thanks, good to know 100% rayon can be matt as well.

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I just received the SS06 Look 28 100% Rayon Vest ( cleverly disguised over a blazer ) today and the rayon is also pretty matt-looking to me. It's a killer piece, my first ever vest and I will post a pic of that in due course

speaking of big cuffs: can't tell if the arm on the jacket is just a bit twisted, making the arm look extra thin, or if the cuff on this is really just that large. probably some of both.

How do you yohji vets recommend using the product codes to search for a specific item? (or, search for a specific item at all...)

I'm thinking to get some of the black hakama pants (really like the ones valter and davidlee posted a lot) but really don't know how to search for them on any sites. Is it likely that I can't find them because they've been so popular that there aren't any available right now? I've tried searching with the official product names and codes (for example, YYPH SS12 Look 39 Type 2 Hakama Pants ( HB-P13-010 ) and variations on that) on Rakuten, Ebay, Google, and others and got no relevant results except for this thread and some on SZ. I've also been manually search B/S forums with no results so far. Sorry if this is a really stupid question, but as I said I've never tried to buy actual designer stuff before and don't really know how to go about it.


Another question: can anyone identify what pants these are? They look a bit like hakamas but don't seem to have the pleating. Browsing rakuten in english gives some funny translations.



Thanks for any help guys. Totally new to this but really want to get going on the yohji look if I can!