Q+A with Ariel Ovadia of Ovadia & Sons

Interview by Pete Anderson, photos courtesy Ovadia & Sons

Ariel and Shimon Ovadia (that’s oh-VAH-dya) probably got a lot of double takes from the throngs of buyers and bloggers passing their display at (capsule) NY in July. Although contemporary menswear has sharpened up a bit in the last few seasons, with more sportcoats and a little less rusticana, their line Ovadia & Sons has a different kind of edge (check out our review of O&S spring 2012). The refined tailored jackets, comfortable and modern casual stuff, and quirky accessories have the attention to detail you find in meticulous repro brands, but without any fussy retro fetish. Their clothing looks more Sartorialist (posting on styleforum circa 2006 edition) than Sartorialist (2011 fashion insider edition). Ariel took a few minutes to answer some questions for Styleforum on Ovadia & Sons the line, what they've in store for this fall, and O&S the people.

Styleforum: Ovadia & Sons is a young brand but you have a family connection in the garment industry, correct?
Ariel Ovadia: Yes, that's correct. In a nutshell, our father started the company in the mid 80s right here in NY. He started from the back of our "woody" station wagon and it grew slowly from there. We've been working in the family business as far back as we can remember. The earliest memory I have was when we were about 7 or 8 years old and we went to the massive fabric wholesale warehouses in Williamsburg.

People sometimes assume that we use our resources for Ovadia & Sons but we literally started from scratch. It was a lot of work to get started—could be a conversation on its own.

Have you both always intended to work in menswear? How did you come to agree on what O&S would look like?
The first time we took it seriously was about 2 years ago when we weren't happy with what was available in stores, fit and design wise. We're the customer, and when we went into the stores to buy clothing, there were always conversations that started "I wish it fit like.." or "I like it but..."

We never had a conversation on what O&S would look like because the approach we took was focusing on what we want to wear and the things that we like.

Well what do you like to wear? Were you born wearing double-breasted jackets? Your personal style seems strong.
It depends on two things - our mood and the weather. One day we can be in jeans and a t shirt and the next in a three-piece suit. Yes, we were both born with navy DBs on.



There has been a drive in the last couple of years to have clothes made in the traditional country of origin--i.e., British-style shoes in the UK, sack suits in the U.S., alpaca knits in Peru--is that something you subscribe to?
We feel strongly about that. Whenever we can, we make the items in the places that will offer the authentic item. The most important point for us is to have the balance of the design and quality.

You have a vintage section on your site that sells unusual, one-of-a-kind items. Are those your personal finds? Are you guys vintage/flea hounds?
We were always fascinated by old things. They are our personal finds, mostly from our travels. When we were teenagers, we used to go every week. We still try to check out the markets, because you never know what you can find. A lot of the items we decorate our apartments with are from antique markets.

How has the reception been to the brand? Has there been an "a-ha" moment yet where you guys were thinking "Wow, this might just work!"
It's been really great. I think that for us, that moment was when the the people in the industry started paying attention to what we were doing and when customers started buying clothing from us.

We’ve seen some of your spring stuff for next year. Can you describe what Ovadia & Sons is doing for fall this year?
If you're lucky enough to live in cold weather, fall clothing should look like fall clothing. For us, key pieces are: gray flannel trousers, wool and cashmere ties in solids and subtle plaids, tweed sportcoats and double breasted flannel sport coats. There is one item that we will probably "live in" all winter—the shawl sweater jacket, its a great piece. It will be in stores and on our website for fall.



Favorite things in the world?
The simple things, really.

Ariel - A nice breakfast, a lot of reading, enjoying a hot cup of coffee, visiting family, going out for dinner, the beach, and most importantly, relaxing from a busy schedule.

Shimon - Playing chess, antique and estate sales, going out to East Hampton in the summer, a nice dinner, cooking.

Thanks, Ariel.

Great colour scheme! Shame it's ruined by the short jacket! :/



Bag is pimp!

Trendy, costumey, dreck.
Although this Yiddish expletive
may be inappropriate for the probably Sephardic Ovadias.

love their pants.

the blogosphere's obsession with double monks needs to stop though.



BubblyMasquerade said:

love their pants.

the blogosphere's obsession with double monks needs to stop though.

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+1 on the 2x monks. I like the shorter look for jackets, though I insist on covering most, if not all of the hinter regions. By the way the word "Dreck" is of German origin. I lived in Germany for a couple of years and as I was learning the language I read Joachim Fest's excellent biography of Hitler and in that reading I encountered the word for the first time. Hitler was out for a drive in a new Mercedes bought with the sales of his ghastly book, "Mein Kampf". He was not yet Chancellor so this was probably 1930-1932. He , Speer and the chauffeur came upon an American car, I can't remember what make- perhaps Packard or Pierce Arrow and Hitler orders the chauffeur to "Overhaul that American Dreck" . Had we known about that we could've saved some time and lives by sending specially equipped Cadillacs or Lasalles to Germany with Thompson machineguns behind the headlights and Browning automatics in the turn signals and put that Detriot-loathing demon out of business !



comrade said:

Trendy, costumey, dreck.
Although this Yiddish expletive
may be inappropriate for the probably Sephardic Ovadias.

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I'm curious as to how you can judge this based on three clear look book pictures? Having seen these garments in person, I can speak for their quality and attention to detail - I think that aside from the slimness, most of it errs away from trendy (however you are defining that) and more towards classic tailoring. It just so happens that what some may deem 'trendy' in menswear these days happens to reflect a return to a more tailored style, i.e. 2 inch cuffed wool trousers, double breasted jackets, spread collars, etc. Double monks may have jumped the shark recently, but they will still be a staple footwear choice long after the (admittedly annoying) buzz dies down. The Ovadias are extremely nice and willing to chat with anyone interested in learning more about their process, history, etc. "Trendy, costumey, dreck" just seemed a bit harsh to me and I was wondering if you had actual experience dealing with the clothes yourself - I'm sure you would find something to your liking if you did.

Furthermore, If you judged all lines by their lookbooks, apparently Isaia's most recent f/w collection is for fly fishing outdoorsmen...



maineratheart said:

"Trendy, costumey, dreck" just seemed a bit harsh to me

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+1

Even if the styling in their promotional material is a bit on the 'trendy' side, most of the individual items taken on their own are relatively classic.



maineratheart said:

... I think that aside from the slimness, most of it errs away from trendy (however you are defining that) and more towards classic tailoring...

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I think you're right that it tends toward classic tailoring, classic tailoring "with a twist" if you will -- like much of the recent stuff from Thom Browne, etc. But you have to realize that comrade is an old customer of Winston tailors, etc., and so he likes his classics free of such twists.

Personally, I'm grateful for their contribution to a resurging appreciation of more traditional styles and quallity construction.



maineratheart said:

I'm curious as to how you can judge this based on three clear look book pictures? Having seen these garments in person, I can speak for their quality and attention to detail - I think that aside from the slimness, most of it errs away from trendy (however you are defining that) and more towards classic tailoring. It just so happens that what some may deem 'trendy' in menswear these days happens to reflect a return to a more tailored style, i.e. 2 inch cuffed wool trousers, double breasted jackets, spread collars, etc. Double monks may have jumped the shark recently, but they will still be a staple footwear choice long after the (admittedly annoying) buzz dies down. The Ovadias are extremely nice and willing to chat with anyone interested in learning more about their process, history, etc. "Trendy, costumey, dreck" just seemed a bit harsh to me and I was wondering if you had actual experience dealing with the clothes yourself - I'm sure you would find something to your liking if you did.

Furthermore, If you judged all lines by their lookbooks, apparently Isaia's most recent f/w collection is for fly fishing outdoorsmen...

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Your rejoinder is larded with cliches. Not a good sign. To me this collection is a caricature of classical clothing mediated through a
Pee Wee Herman aesthetic. The models look like they've outgrown their garments. As for the Ovadia's interpersonal skills, that
is irrelevant. Perhaps they might try social work.

Re: Isaia- I haven't bought any in five years. I don't like their recent OTR offerings



Sanguis Mortuum said:

+1

Even if the styling in their promotional material is a bit on the 'trendy' side, most of the individual items taken on their own are relatively classic.

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We have different ideas of what is " classic"

im going to copy the **** out of this look sans the gloves, cardigan, leather gloves, and bag

edit: will also lose the tie



NAMOR said:

im going to copy the **** out of this look sans the gloves, cardigan, leather gloves, and bag

edit: will also lose the tie

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Looks like you only like the pents

Seems as though mafoofan does as well



SpooPoker said:

Looks like you only like the pents

Seems as though mafoofan does as well

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and the boots. I have a similar pair.

Light gray pants and black shoes/boots is money. i love the 2 inch cuff (no break) + boots look, especially



JapanAlex01 said:

Great colour scheme! Shame it's ruined by the short jacket! :/

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DB breasted jackets are supposed to be that way. I like the outift but think the scarf is totally unnecessary. Love that crease in the pants as well.

Outfits look relatively nice, with the exception of very short jackets, but it all looks very trendy - something GQ would be drooling all over.