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Bespoke suit made by two separate tailors? - Page 3

post #31 of 39
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Seitelman View Post
Yes. These are routine repairs.

I have not had a new waistband done, but I have had new trouser pockets, new trouser lining, and a re-lined coat.

Just make sure that the rest of the suit is in good condition before undertaking the expense which can run a few hundred dollars.

Good luck.

Thank you,
The fabric, etc is in good condition, it is just the stitching on the waistband lining that is falling apart and such, where could I go to get the pockets and waistband lining replaced? What tailors offer this service?
post #32 of 39
Just saw a suit made by one tailor but he outsourced the trouser and vest. Three different colors of buttonhole twist were used. Each garment was different. Vest and jacket lining didn't match. Vest was at least 1 1/2" above the waistband of the trouser. This was all overseen by one tailor and he missed all these points.

I like to see jacket and trouser together when fitting a suit to judge the overall proportion, balance and aesthetic of a suit. If you use two tailors, have the trouser made and completed and wear it for the fittings.

It is very difficult to know the right or wrong side of silk or linen. Linen has more sheen on one side than the other and would be very noticeable if they were cut on different sides.
It is important to cut everything in one direction on the cloth including trimmings. You want to know the direction the pattern pieces are laid on the cloth and communicate that with both tailors. One of my coatmakers just made pocket flaps cut in the opposite direction as the jacket cloth and they looked 2 shades darker than the jacket so we cut new flaps. The color difference was enough that you would have thought it wasn't the same cloth.

If all the variables are thought out and controlled , no problem. If not, some issues cannot be corrected.
post #33 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
Just saw a suit made by one tailor but he outsourced the trouser and vest. Three different colors of buttonhole twist were used. Each garment was different. Vest and jacket lining didn't match. Vest was at least 1 1/2" above the waistband of the trouser. This was all overseen by one tailor and he missed all these points.

I like to see jacket and trouser together when fitting a suit to judge the overall proportion, balance and aesthetic of a suit. If you use two tailors, have the trouser made and completed and wear it for the fittings.

It is very difficult to know the right or wrong side of silk or linen. Linen has more sheen on one side than the other and would be very noticeable if they were cut on different sides.
It is important to cut everything in one direction on the cloth including trimmings. You want to know the direction the pattern pieces are laid on the cloth and communicate that with both tailors. One of my coatmakers just made pocket flaps cut in the opposite direction as the jacket cloth and they looked 2 shades darker than the jacket so we cut new flaps. The color difference was enough that you would have thought it wasn't the same cloth.

If all the variables are thought out and controlled , no problem. If not, some issues cannot be corrected.



Excellent examples of how and why things can go wrong with using different makers.

I think that your best bet is to give the whole job to an experienced clothier.
post #34 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Seitelman View Post
Generally, the coat and pants are made by two separate tailors even if they work under the same roof.

However, if you send the work to two different shops you may have the problem of chasing down one to get the work done. See, e.g., http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=237582.

By contracting-out the separate parts you are acting as a clothier with all of the attendant headaches, such as getting the work done, getting the work done RIGHT, getting the correct fit, and getting timely delivery.

One unsung task of the clothier is getting all the pieces made in a timely fashion. If you decide to contract-out the coat to Tailor A and the pants to Tailor B, then you will have to be the coordinator. You may have to chase down Tailor A or B for delivery as well as to rectify mistakes.

In my opinion it is better to have the suit made by one maker who will take responsibility for getting it done once, getting it done right, and getting it delivered.

I have a couple of friends who approached a well known pants maker. The pants maker was working "direct" with the customer and charged a low price to reflect that there was no retailer. The price was excellent, but there was one hitch. The pants were never delivered. The pants maker kept-on making promises and eventually ducked the customers. The pants maker finally returned the cloth after getting a lawyer's letter. If the customers had gone to the local retailer they would have paid more, but they would have gotten the pants. It seems that one of the jobs of the retailer is to coax the work from the maker.

My suggestion is to use Rubinacci for the whole deal. If you want more handwork, order it, and they should be happy to provide it along for an added charge. Incidentally, I have heard that Ambrosi makes Rubinacci's pants. Rubinacci may be able to coax the work out of Ambrosi faster than you could.

Good luck.

Very Wise. Production of complicated luxury items whatever they may be is a full time job.
post #35 of 39
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtrider123 View Post
Thank you,
The fabric, etc is in good condition, it is just the stitching on the waistband lining that is falling apart and such, where could I go to get the pockets and waistband lining replaced? What tailors offer this service?

can anyone answer some of these questions? I want the entire waistband lining/curtain replaced (unstitched and have a brand new lining/curtain replaced with higher quality stitching), could a tailor like wilfreds ny, provide this type of service? don't tailors completely take out the waistband lining/curtain when they "recut" trousers anyway?
post #36 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtrider123 View Post
can anyone answer some of these questions? I want the entire waistband lining/curtain replaced (unstitched and have a brand new lining/curtain replaced with higher quality stitching), could a tailor like wilfreds ny, provide this type of service? don't tailors completely take out the waistband lining/curtain when they "recut" trousers anyway?

Why don't you contact the tailor to see if they could perform this type of alteration?
post #37 of 39
Couldn't it just be resewn? Is it necessary to replace the curtain if it only needs to be sewn in again?

If it is a pre made machine made curtain it is very difficult. If it is a hand top trouser it is easier but your tailor needs to have the proper supplies. Not many alteration tailors have the trimmings needed because they seldom/rarely use them.
post #38 of 39
Thread Starter 
could a tailor simply go in, remove the old stitching and restitch it without having to replace it?
post #39 of 39
yes
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