Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

climbinglife · Aug 13, 2014

Arizor said:
Hey chaps, if I'm size 10 in Viberg, can anyone recommend the size in White's standard semi-dress?

From the pair I have I can say i'm a half size smaller in Vibergs than I am in my whites. I'm a 7 in White's and 6.5 in Viberg, but that can be "last" dependent.

chiliinabowl · Aug 13, 2014

Has anyone seen a 2-tone SD made with dress black and brown leathers? A quick google image search doesn't come up with anything. I'm thinking brown upper, black vamp with brown medallion toe cap.

climbinglife · Aug 13, 2014

^Check out Ultrasound boots on Facebook. He's got hundreds of makeups.

LouieBailie · Aug 13, 2014

Arizor said:
... Good lord man get back on your meds.

I am not the one on the internet asking for help getting my shoe size.......and this type of shoe/boot buyer is an excellent example why retail customers wanting/needing all sorts of "help" pay more.

meso · Aug 13, 2014

jrosenthal said:
He also mentioned that they just lowered the price on the retro oxford by $75 so that now brings them into custom semi-dress territory within a few bucks.

Sheeeit, should I email for a price adjust?

jrosenthal said:
I am now rethinking the double stitched sole and natural welt as I think they look awesome on a black boot in pics I have seen but am now thinking it may make the boot too casual and chunky-funky looking and close trim and dark brown welt color would make it look dressier (not as dressy as blacked out would) and still show off the stacked leather heel and leather welt.....thoughts?

Either close or normal trim will look good, but the double-stitching will affect the overall footprint of the shoe and bulky appearance. Definitely more bootlike.

I do not prefer double leather as the overall size and heft of the semi-dress boot is already substantial.

meso · Aug 13, 2014

LouieBailie said:
I am not the one on the internet asking for help getting my shoe size.......and this type of shoe/boot buyer is an excellent example why retail customers wanting/needing all sorts of "help" pay more.

Come off it... asking for help sizing by comparing lasts in the correct thread is a totally valid use of SF.

LouieBailie · Aug 13, 2014

jrosenthal said:
So I had a lengthy conversation with Kyle yesterday and placed my first order. I asked the questions we were discussing here and got clarification from one of the sources that knows these boots better than anyone.

Lowered vs. regular heel: he said if you have a low arch (aka flat footed) like I am, then lowering the heel would probably give a less extreme angle for the arch support and be more comfortable. He said lowering 1/2" would indeed change the geometry of the arch support, but 1/4" isn't too extreme.

Standard heel vs. Block heel: he said the standard heel does help with natural gait, and if you tend to have a hard heel strike (like I do) then it will mitigate the impact. That said, he said he has both and does prefer the look of the standard heel as it is the iconic White's look, but agreed the lowered block heel would look dressier.

Chromexcel: seems to be one of his favorite leathers (can't blame him, it is lovely) but agreed that it was a more casual leather and one of their dress leathers would be far more "dressy" and take a polish and resist scratching better.

Lined vs. Unlined: he said that the studier leathers don't need a lining (Chromexcel, dress, bull, etc) but the finer ones do need a liner (calf, Horse hide, water buffalo). He said lining the heavier leathers is preference but it does make the boot warmer and heavier.

He also mentioned that they just lowered the price on the retro oxford by $75 so that now brings them into custom semi-dress territory within a few bucks. I'm tempted to get a pair blacked out with lowered block heel with regular cap toe as formal dress shoe. I think in the black calf or dress black with high shine it could work with a suit.....who says all dress shoes have to have a pointy toe? The oxford last is not as bulbous as the swing last (sleeker and lower profile- if you can call that shape sleek at all) and is perfect for those of us that have a wide fore foot and narrow heel.... All of you Trickers and C&J owners just shut up now-we can't all wear sexy shoes

The order I placed is:
Semi-dress on swing last (to accommodate my pinky toes)
Black dress leather
No lining
Medallion cap toe
Lowered standard heel
Commando mini-lug half sole
Natural welt
Standard edge trim

I am now rethinking the double stitched sole and natural welt as I think they look awesome on a black boot in pics I have seen but am now thinking it may make the boot too casual and chunky-funky looking and close trim and dark brown welt color would make it look dressier (not as dressy as blacked out would) and still show off the stacked leather heel and leather welt.....thoughts?
James

I always get lining to prevent the color of the leather from bleeding off into my socks.

WorldWideWafflz · Aug 13, 2014

jrosenthal said:
So I had a lengthy conversation with Kyle yesterday and placed my first order. I asked the questions we were discussing here and got clarification from one of the sources that knows these boots better than anyone.

Lowered vs. regular heel: he said if you have a low arch (aka flat footed) like I am, then lowering the heel would probably give a less extreme angle for the arch support and be more comfortable. He said lowering 1/2" would indeed change the geometry of the arch support, but 1/4" isn't too extreme.

Standard heel vs. Block heel: he said the standard heel does help with natural gait, and if you tend to have a hard heel strike (like I do) then it will mitigate the impact. That said, he said he has both and does prefer the look of the standard heel as it is the iconic White's look, but agreed the lowered block heel would look dressier.

Chromexcel: seems to be one of his favorite leathers (can't blame him, it is lovely) but agreed that it was a more casual leather and one of their dress leathers would be far more "dressy" and take a polish and resist scratching better.

Lined vs. Unlined: he said that the studier leathers don't need a lining (Chromexcel, dress, bull, etc) but the finer ones do need a liner (calf, Horse hide, water buffalo). He said lining the heavier leathers is preference but it does make the boot warmer and heavier.

He also mentioned that they just lowered the price on the retro oxford by $75 so that now brings them into custom semi-dress territory within a few bucks. I'm tempted to get a pair blacked out with lowered block heel with regular cap toe as formal dress shoe. I think in the black calf or dress black with high shine it could work with a suit.....who says all dress shoes have to have a pointy toe? The oxford last is not as bulbous as the swing last (sleeker and lower profile- if you can call that shape sleek at all) and is perfect for those of us that have a wide fore foot and narrow heel.... All of you Trickers and C&J owners just shut up now-we can't all wear sexy shoes

The order I placed is:
Semi-dress on swing last (to accommodate my pinky toes)
Black dress leather
No lining
Medallion cap toe
Lowered standard heel
Commando mini-lug half sole
Natural welt
Standard edge trim

I am now rethinking the double stitched sole and natural welt as I think they look awesome on a black boot in pics I have seen but am now thinking it may make the boot too casual and chunky-funky looking and close trim and dark brown welt color would make it look dressier (not as dressy as blacked out would) and still show off the stacked leather heel and leather welt.....thoughts?
James

You're on the right track. Definitely brown or black edging and close trim. I would avoid a stitch down boot for a suit all together. But Im not here to talk you out if it and If if you're going to to it, do it right. Do calf with a toe cap, and a lining. I would also advocate brown instead of black for the boot. Then you'll have a boot that will rule with chinos too. Also a vibram 700 or leather sole. I have some dressy calf boots with commando sole, they're weird looking with a standard worsted fabric.

jrosenthal · Aug 13, 2014

Thanks for the advise, and I agree. I think I am trying to kill too many birds with 1 stone. I know I can't pull off a work boot with a suit, but I can get a "dressy" work boot for flannel trousers, khakis, etc, which is what the aforementioned swing lasted SD's will be for. Since I'm pretty much throwing out my entire shoe wardrobe because i've become hyper sensitive to foot discomfort as my feet have changed over the years, my Tricker's CB's , C&J CB's, and a pair of Alden's NTB's among many others have all gone away to a dear friend who compensated me well, so I'm left with 2 pairs of Dr. Martens for work, my Alden 975's which don't fit wonderfully but at least don't hurt and my black AE Leeds which are short event wearers only until I want to throw them across the room. I'm not a rich man, but I know what my priorities are and my comfort is tops along with my principles (no cheap disposable goods in my life thank you very much) Now that I have found a company making two lasts that seems to work well with my feet, I can flesh out the stable as time and money permits, but I do have the immediate needs of both black and brown work and black and brown dress, and all need to be able to cross train in either without looking too out of place (I wouldn't wear work boots with a suit as much as I wouldn't wear my Leeds with Jeans).

As I said earlier, I do think the retro oxford, if done with a very conservative build (black/brown calf, 1/4" lowered block heel, close trim, black/brown edge trim) can be very dressy as long as you like the broad toe box, which is an esthetic choice for some but unfortunatly necessity for others.

James

leipergrey · Aug 13, 2014

jrosenthal said:
Lined vs. Unlined: he said that the studier leathers don't need a lining (Chromexcel, dress, bull, etc) but the finer ones do need a liner (calf, Horse hide, water buffalo). He said lining the heavier leathers is preference but it does make the boot warmer and heavier.
James

I get the impression you called Kyle (as opposed to emailing him) and I think you got this wrong.

He told me he suggests lining for CXL and exotic leathers, and none for thicker leathers like distressed smooth.

WorldWideWafflz · Aug 13, 2014

Yes definitely doable as dressy but personally a suit is stretching it very far. Like I said I'm not trying to talk you out of it. Just offering some perspective. I'm wearing black casual boots with a brown welt right now. They look great but they're really not versatile at all. That's why I'm advocating brown/brown. Also be weary of the eyelets. Low contrast, shiny brass will draw too much attention. I don't know a lot about whites ( first pair on order now!) but dress boots are probably the one thing I do know.

climbinglife · Aug 13, 2014

Kyle has expressed to me personally that CXL is better when ordered Lined. CXL can stretch more so than other leathers and the liner helps with this. I did with my last order...couldn't be happier

jrosenthal · Aug 13, 2014

leipergrey said:
I get the impression you called Kyle (as opposed to emailing him) and I think you got this wrong.

He told me he suggests lining for CXL and exotic leathers, and none for thicker leathers like distressed smooth.

I did talk to him and there was a lot of information flying at me at once. I asked particularly about the dress leather and he said unlined was fine, but I do like a smooth lining as opposed to rough interior, so I may change that.
The retro oxfords I have on "loan" for fit (I had to pay for them but understood I would not be keeping them) are black water buffalo and have a spectacular texture feel and grain, but are lined as the material seems so thin and delicate.
James

Quack Attack · Aug 13, 2014

Regarding leather liner....

Leathers that require a liner:
French Calf
Water Buffalo
Bull Hide
Horse Hide
Ostrich
Shark
Caiman
Lizard
Bison
Blue Suede
Any other 'exotic' leathers require the liner

Leathers that DON'T require a liner, but I do advise one:
Chrome Excel
British Tan

Leathers that DON"T need a leather liner, but is a personal preference:
Oiled cowhides (black, brown, distressed, red dog)
Dress leather (black and brown)

Hope that helps - I wish I could spend more time on here answering questions, but I just have too many avenues of questions coming in, it's difficult to keep up with. I do keep my eye on this forum and some of the other popular ones at least once a week.... I am happy to help anyone and everyone, but please send emails to our general box for questions/inquires! I'm on that all day and night! Appreciate it -

trvlr472 · Aug 13, 2014

jrosenthal said:
I can't speak with authority and am new to this group, but my most recent education in fit with the help of Kyle at baker's made me realize that I never knew my fit. I always assumed I was a D width, and in some shoes I am, but in the white's I was fitted in an E-in a very generous last. It sounds like your issue isn't the length but the width of the boot. That said, yes they can be "stretched" but you probably will only gain 1/8" or less IME, and I always hate the way shoes that have been stretched took, they lose their shape a bit, and the sides of the foot bugle out over the sole.

I would sell them and start fresh with a correct fitting pair, and I would do the process with Baker's and just choke down the cost of new. After years of trying to save a few pennies buying on eBay or getting a "deal" that is close in size, I realize I have thrown away thousands of dollars on shoes that I no longer own, or are sitting in a pile waiting to be put on eBay.

James

Depending on the leather you chose you might want to give them a while longer to break in. My lined, oil finish brown CWB's are still not broken in up around the ankle and I have been wearing them a lot (like 12 to 14 hrs a day) for about 4 months now. They are getting there but it's slow. I do trade off with the smoke jumpers every other day or so now but for about 3 months I was wearing them I was wearing them every day for sometimes 20 to 24 hours. Some of the leathers White's uses are pretty damn stiff for quite a while as I have found out. However, if they flat just don't fit I guess you're screwed and will have to either sell them to someone they do fit or send them in and have them rebuilt in the proper size.

This is just my experience. I'm new to Whites.

Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

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