Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

Place an appropriate value on the advice of one whose pair of White's is just now being put together, but my take on your high-lighted bits is this:
For the shaft, I'm kind of conservative when it comes to boot colour and would stay with one shade for the entire boot. I feel that having more than one is fun at first, but over time (and these boots should last awhile) your tastes will change (this being a fashion choice) and you may regret the combination of shades.
For the edging, with your choice of Red Dog for the majority of the boot I'd recommend black edging, brown may make it too busy.

mike fite said:

just bought a pair of White's brown semi dress at imogene+willie here in nashville and i wear a normal 13 but i bought 12's they fit fine and are nice a not too snug. I'm sure the break in period will take a bit but the arch ease in the right foot seems a bit more intense than the left. I'm hoping my right foot will for more to the arch ease as everyone says i will!
also have alden indy boots 405 and 403 as well as a few pair of Trickers. these fit like a glove and i really can't wait till they break in

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Great looking boots. I wonder if I could get you to comment on the area between the heel and the stitching on the sole ( or post another pic). I just received my first pair of Whites and am somewhat distressed to see that my boots have almost 3/4 inch of sole showing in this area. I am wondering if this is how the they make them or if my pair did not get trimmed properly. I have other pairs of boots that do not show nearly as much sole and I find it unattractive on my boots. Your pair look fine and I would like to see more detail in that area to compare.

Why don't you post a pic of yours? Probably easier to go that route

ohiorick said:

Great looking boots. I wonder if I could get you to comment on the area between the heel and the stitching on the sole ( or post another pic). I just received my first pair of Whites and am somewhat distressed to see that my boots have almost 3/4 inch of sole showing in this area. I am wondering if this is how the they make them or if my pair did not get trimmed properly. I have other pairs of boots that do not show nearly as much sole and I find it unattractive on my boots. Your pair look fine and I would like to see more detail in that area to compare.

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Would not be too concerned here, but do know what you are talking about. The Whites on ebay have some pretty large areas...

semi dress with French calf
got these from line gear a few years back, didn't wear much, now really getting back into boots, particularly whites and nicks:

Here are some shots of the problem. I sent these to Kyle and I have not heard from him on this yet. The photos do not show the issue as well as actually seeing the boots on person. When I compare these to my other brand , cheaper boots , I really think they need to go back for some kind of fix. Likely no one but me would ever notice, but I plan to have these for a long time and would like to see this repaired. Am I being too picky about this?

Difficult to see in there with only the last pic being in focus.

From what I can tell the shelf seems larger than many of the boots that have been posted here, but it's difficult to say what White's considers 'normal'.
We don't really have access to their 'standards' and chances are there's nothing written down anyway.
We also have to keep in mind that this is a workboot company, one that prides itself on fit and durability.
Although they generally look really good, this is more down to form following function than aesthetic decisions - I'll bet looks are not in the top two of their priority list.

I guess I have expectations that the sole of the boot should follow the shape of the upper and not have a "shelf". These are the most expensive boots I have ever owned and while I agree that they are "work" boots, I see no reason for them to be any less quality and level of craftsmanship than my RW Iron Rangers. I will see what Kyle has to say and go from there. I hope White's decides to make some changes to the soles on this pair.



hendjosh said:

This is my first post on this forum as I am thinking on buying my first pair of White's. Originally, I had been looking at Red Wings,  but after reading this forum and IronHeart I am going to bypass Red Wings and go straight to White's. I'd like to say thanks to all those who have posted a wealth of information about the various options offered. The pictures of builds, boots as they have aged, and leather sample pictures have been most helpful.

Below is the build I am thinking about and would appreciate any comments on my options.

Bounty Hunter

Leather Liner: Brown[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Size - Length: 12[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Height: 6"[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Toe Cap: No Thanks[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Toe Vamp Leather: Red Dog Oiled[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Last: Semi Dress (Bounty Hunter)[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Hardware: Antique Eyes & Hooks[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Heel Base: Standard[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Steel Toe: No Thanks[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Size - Width: C[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Heel Lifts: Standard[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Toe Cap Leather Color: Does not apply[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Top: Cut Top (standard)[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Midsole: Single[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Lace Design: Lace to Toe[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]Edge: Brown or Black?[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Counter Leather: Red Dog Oiled[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]Upper (Shaft) Leather:  British Tan or maybe Brown Bison?[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Pull Loops: Leather Pull Loops[COLOR=A49B9A]
[/COLOR]
Sole: Vibram 430 Mini Vib

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Hey, no Red Dog/Brown Bison combos, that's my special build.
Seriously though, it is a beautiful combo! I can relate to what ojaw said about staying with one color, but the Red Dog darkens a little, and let's face it, part of the great thing about White's is that you CAN specify two colors for the boots. Blue suede and Red Dog might be a bit much for a first pair, but staying with browns and blacks is pretty safe.

ohiorick said:

I guess I have expectations that the sole of the boot should follow the shape of the upper and not have a "shelf".  These are the most expensive boots I have ever owned and while I agree that they are "work" boots, I see no reason for them to be any less quality and level of craftsmanship than my RW Iron Rangers.   I will see what Kyle has to say and go from there. I hope White's decides to make some changes to the soles on this pair.  

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Rick,

No, that big "shelf" is normal. I know what you mean though, when I got my first pair I was thinking it looked wrong. You have to remember, these aren't dress shoes with their fitted wasp-waist. They are derived from workboots used to log the big forests of the northwest and fight forest fires. The big shelf was there to protect the arch of the upper above it.

Andy B.

There is a little bit of a shelf on the work boots I just bought in that same area but not like the shelf in those pics. I'd be slightly upset if it were me considering what these things cost. My false tongues have the holes in a different spot making one stick out more than the other but I can live with that considering these boots are hand made but a shelf that big I'd complain about.



andy b. said:

Rick,

No, that big "shelf" is normal. I know what you mean though, when I got my first pair I was thinking it looked wrong. You have to remember, these aren't dress shoes with their fitted wasp-waist. They are derived from workboots used to log the big forests of the northwest and fight forest fires. The big shelf was there to protect the arch of the upper above it.

Andy B.

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Andy,
The shelf is not the same from one side of the boot to the other ,nor is it the same from one boot to the other. I have never seen a shelf on any boot, so I can't say good or bad on that. It seems that a shelf this large would be a bad thing on a work boot, one made to wear fighting forest fires as it would be able to load up with embers, ash or mud. The Bounty Hunter is a Smoke Jumper made on a semi dress last, so it should be a dressed up work boot . No? Thanks for your input on this. It is a learning experience and it will work out in the end. I doubt I will be happy wearing these as they are and I trust Baker's will make it right.



ohiorick said:

Here are some shots of the problem. I sent these to Kyle and I have not heard from him on this yet. The photos do not show the issue as well as actually seeing the boots on person. When I compare these to my other brand , cheaper boots , I really think they need to go back for some kind of fix. Likely no one but me would ever notice, but I plan to have these for a long time and would like to see this repaired. Am I being too picky about this?

Click to expand...

I would expect more for a pair of $400+ boots.

Just placed my custom order - Kyle says it'll be done in 4-6 weeks. Can't wait!

It's not a super out-of-this-world custom but just something simple and classy I can pair with most of my wardrobe.

Horse Hide Semi Dress by White's
Upper (Shaft) Leather: Black Horse Hide
Edge: Natural
Leather Liner: Red
Toe Vamp Leather: Black Horse Hide
Sole: Vibram 430 Mini Vib
Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe
Last: Standard
Midsole: Single
Toe Cap Leather Color: Black Horse Hide
Size - Length: 10.5
Hardware: All Brass Eyes
Heel Lifts: Standard
Size - Width: D (medium)
Toe Cap: Medallion Toe Cap
Pull Loops: No Thanks
Heel Base: Standard
Sole Trim: Standard Trim



ohiorick said:

Andy,
The shelf is not the same from one side of the boot to the other ,nor is it the same from one boot to the other. I have never seen a shelf on any boot, so I can't say good or bad on that. It seems that a shelf this large would be a bad thing on a work boot, one made to wear fighting forest fires as it would be able to load up with embers, ash or mud. The Bounty Hunter is a Smoke Jumper made on a semi dress last, so it should be a dressed up work boot . No? Thanks for your input on this. It is a learning experience and it will work out in the end. I doubt I will be happy wearing these as they are and I trust Baker's will make it right.

Click to expand...

The inner shelf (the one on the inside of the boot) is larger than the outer shelf because of the way the upper is shaped, so the "shelves" on one single boot will not be the same on both sides. As for the left boot being different than the right, I would say that is a common complaint about White's. I think only if there is a drastic difference does anyone really notice or return them. I have three pairs, and there are definitely minor differences between the left and right on each one. It's just part of the process when building something by hand with very thick leather.

The shelf protects the upper from punctures coming from below. When fighting fires you're supposed to try and not wade through 4" deep piles of embers. Besides, the embers really won't hurt the uppers if they are properly treated and cleaned once you get out of the fire. I mean, if you're standing in one spot and the ground is glowing red and 700 degrees as far as you can see, you better get moving.

I know what you mean about the BHs being built on the SD last, but that is just the shape of the upper. The basic boot itself is still a SJ workboot.

I know what you're saying though. I would definitely contact Kyle at Baker's and I have no doubt he'll do what needs to be done.