my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura



F. Corbera said:

The only true test of this is the trouserless jacket shot.

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Truth be told: I tried this once, and it works!

Déjà view?

- M

Is Mina's husband in the same room during this "test"?

So which of you guys ordered the same Scottie Derby cloth as my famous blue jacket ?

^Are you getting anything new?

I can see how my jacket looks long from the front view, but the side view looks just right to me. As with many Neapolitan coats, NSM have a slightly longer front than back, so best to look at total length in 3D... which is difficult in a static snapshot. I'm happy with the length overall. And really happy with all the stuff Mina has made for me. I also have long torso-short leg proportions for whatever that's worth.

For Bay Area peeps, Mina will be in San Francisco this Tuesday, December 6. Looking forward to see her.

It does look long in front to me from that pic. FWIW, a short back is typical of Naples tailoring.



Manton said:

It does look long in front to me from that pic. FWIW, a short back is typical of Naples tailoring.

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Do your Solito and NSM have short backs? Will they fix if asked?

Could Parker's NSM look long from the side because it's unbuttoned? FWIW, I marginally prefer Parker's to Vox's, and the length looks fine. Vox's looks a bit too tight and short, like the jacket shrunk a little bit. That barchetta pocket is a little out of control.



A Y said:

Could Parker's NSM look long from the side because it's unbuttoned? FWIW, I marginally prefer Parker's to Vox's, and the length looks fine. Vox's looks a bit too tight and short, like the jacket shrunk a little bit. That barchetta pocket is a little out of control.

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I agree, Vox's does look a wee bit snug, and Parker's looks a bit long in the front. I find myself vacillating wildly on the the NSM stuff. Sometimes it looks great, sometimes it looks a bit out of balance or shrunken. I suppose that's true of all the bespoke tailors, in their varying ways.

NSM customers, what is your take on the new barchetta ?

A Y said:

Vox's looks a bit too tight and short, like the jacket shrunk a little bit.

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Well, here's something about which you can scratch your chin: The NSM fit thus far is quite a bit looser than my Steed fit which is snapped in at the waist and hips.

I'm getting forwards for five or six new NSM jackets and one or three new suits tomorrow, so I'll have more data points (I'm not exactly sure what made it across the pond on this go.)

As for the jacket length, it seems only a moment ago in time at which Senior Members cried out for shorter Steeds. As I noted earlier in this thread, back collar to hem, the Steeds are 0.75" longer. It's hard to measure the fronts as consistently, but maybe the NSMs are an inch shorter.

A while back I posted a robot pose direct comparison between iammatt in his Rubinacci and me in Steed. As it turns out, the jacket lengths were about the same and in each case approximate fell to the halfway point from collar to floor which I think allows for the best impression of balance if one's physical attributes allow.

A lot of SF memes amuse me, but about my favorite is that "this or that" "should be" "raised" or "lowered" by "1 inch.". It's always one inch! It's never even metric! And the best is when these comments adhere to "critiques" of RTW, as if the poor dude has a choice. Anyway...

Stylistically, within the range of a jacket length that approximately bisects ensemble height, I think it is the shape of the fronts more than anything else that gives off an impression of length or shortness...basically, the visual mass at the hem in front. The more swept the fronts (or quarters, if you will) the "shorter" the jacket will appear. What's you opinion?

Another SF meme is the one of "optimal dimension." Without getting into this in detail, it seems reasonable to say that if one has more than one tailor, a possibility is that one is seeking a different and unique style from each. This might very well include jacket "length."



F. Corbera said:

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Well, here's something about which you can scratch your chin: The NSM fit thus far is quite a bit looser than my Steed fit which is snapped in at the waist and hips.
I'm getting forwards for five or six new NSM jackets and one or three new suits tomorrow, so I'll have more data points (I'm not exactly sure what made it across the pond on this go.)
As for the jacket length, it seems only a moment ago in time at which Senior Members cried out for shorter Steeds. As I noted earlier in this thread, back collar to hem, the Steeds are 0.75" longer. It's hard to measure the fronts as consistently, but maybe the NSMs are an inch shorter.
A while back I posted a robot pose direct comparison between iammatt in his Rubinacci and me in Steed. As it turns out, the jacket lengths were about the same and in each case approximate fell to the halfway point from collar to floor which I think allows for the best impression of balance if one's physical attributes allow.
A lot of SF memes amuse me, but about my favorite is that "this or that" "should be" "raised" or "lowered" by "1 inch.". It's always one inch! It's never even metric! And the best is when these comments adhere to "critiques" of RTW, as if the poor dude has a choice. Anyway...
Stylistically, within the range of a jacket length that approximately bisects ensemble height, I think it is the shape of the fronts more than anything else that gives off an impression of length or shortness...basically, the visual mass at the hem in front. The more swept the fronts (or quarters, if you will) the "shorter" the jacket will appear. What's you opinion?
Another SF meme is the one of "optimal dimension." Without getting into this in detail, it seems reasonable to say that if one has more than one tailor, a possibility is that one is seeking a different and unique style from each. This might very well include jacket "length."

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Dear Mr. Corbera, This is all very well, but could you shorten it about an inch? -The Senior Members



F. Corbera said:

​

I'm getting forwards for five or six new NSM jackets and one or three new suits tomorrow, so I'll have more data points (I'm not exactly sure what made it across the pond on this go.)

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quar said:

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comrade said:

wmb said:

F. Corbera -- my opinion is that NSM looks better on you than your SRow items

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I disagree. The Steeds suit you better than Mina. Her coats still look too short and too close cut
for your build.

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This will come as no surprise, but I prefer the Steed stuff as well. The NSM stuff is fine, in a casual sort of way, but the Steed stuff seems cleaner and more elegant, and more flattering to Vox's build. The style of dress F. Corbera has shown us in several hundred photographs seems more compatible with Steed's classical lines than NSM's more fashionable, "SF 2011" cut. (It helps, of course, that Edwin's had so long to refine the pattern.)

For Vox, I might like NSM sportcoats more than suits.