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Tom Mahon: An Englishcut in New York - Page 9

post #121 of 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montauk View Post
Hmm. What if I have two children with identical shapes but different constructions?

I am not a wealthy man, and want to spend my childrens' bespoke dollar wisely.

It's so confusing out there.

Hmmmmm, you were talking about rtw, and now you are talking bespoke.

With two children the same then you could have three tailors. One from America, another from jolly old England, and the other from Italy, of course there is France and Germany, or many other countries. When you get all of their opinions, the more knowledge the better right?, then you can decide, and just go to one.
post #122 of 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post
What is your horse in this race?

Do you have any bespoke commissions from Mahon, or any bespoke items of tailored clothing at all?

Just trying to get an idea of where you are coming from.

No horse in this race. There are some good tailors out there along with some who could do better. Many of them have some worth while philosophy to listen to about clothes and it is a shame they don't write. In my opinion tailoring isn't just a rendition of a suit or garment, but it is so much more.

If I want something better than rtw I'll make it, which is rather rare.
post #123 of 185
I was actually there that night. From what I recall, this remark came up following the query about "balance" and what it actually means. I distinctly recall Tom Mahon mentioning the whole issue about intergenerational differences in posture as a theory of his. He definitely did not lay this down as gospel in any way, and I am sure that he would be open to hearing from, and deferring to, those who have more information and knowledge on the issue.

That aside, I would like to echo Montauk on what a wonderful evening it was. A lot of the people that I spoke to that night were either bespoke newbies or at least bespoke-curious, and I think most of us - I certainly did - learnt a lot from the free and easy interactions we had with Tom throughout the evening. For many, this was the first time they were meeting Tom after years of following his blog. I think I speak for many of us when I say that we are glad that someone like Tom Mahon is out there to explain the mystique of Savile Row and thus make bespoke tailoring seem that slightly more attainable.

I am a big fan of Tom Mahon, and so far, have also been a very satisfied customer. At the same time, I know that some of his views about RTW can be a bit off the mark. But if his blog is any indication, he has not been shy in being upfront about his views and he seems open to having a discussion.

As a general point, I, for one, opt for bespoke not so much because of the "pitfalls" - perceived or otherwise - of RTW, but rather because of the benefits and "magic" - again perceived or otherwise - that bespoke has to offer. Thus, Tom Mahon's views on RTW, as far as I'm concerned, are a side issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Montauk View Post
As the only poster in this thread who was actually present that night, this is exactly how I interpreted his remark. Good grief.

Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos
How about option C: that it was a throwaway comment - not dissimilar to the sort a BMW salesman might make about a Benz, or a property agent about any other property not under his/her purview - and perhaps should be taken as such?

post #124 of 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Ay329 View Post
* * *

With that aside, I commend Tom for hosting such an event and raffle...especially from a man who always reminds us that he is so busy, that he can not take on any new clients


That's his marketing gimmick.

When did Mr. Mahon become an oracle on tailoring and clothes?

From reading his blog and reading about him on Will and the fora, Mr. Mahon seems to be an amiable chap and a good tailor. To elevate him to "bespoke statesman" is a bit much.
post #125 of 185
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbowtie View Post
I was actually there that night. From what I recall, this remark came up following the query about "balance" and what it actually means. I distinctly recall Tom Mahon mentioning the whole issue about intergenerational differences in posture as a theory of his. He definitely did not lay this down as gospel in any way, and I am sure that he would be open to hearing from, and deferring to, those who have more information and knowledge on the issue.

Agreed. I missed the "theory" qualification, but it was certainly clear enough that he was speaking casually.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Seitelman View Post
When did Mr. Mahon become an oracle on tailoring and clothes?

From reading his blog and reading about him on Will and the fora, Mr. Mahon seems to be an amiable chap and a good tailor. To elevate him to "bespoke statesman" is a bit much.

Mahon has never claimed to be an "oracle" or a "bespoke statesman." I suspect he's quite happy to let the contenders for those thorny crowns square off on this forum.
post #126 of 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sator View Post
Also a brief comment about the modern day conjecture that older systems were intended for people with a more erect stance. The idea is that we live a more sedate lifestyle and end up being more stooped. This is actually a myth that has emerged from the fact that older systems cut a more recessed minor lateral balance in order to allow more room to advance it back to the proportionate position with more intensive ironwork than has become usual since around 1950 (they also used to have a more aggressive approach to drawing in the bridle). There is a significant body of published literature from numerous different sources that all unequivocally support my position. There is no published source supporting the modern conjecture about older systems being intended for people with a more erect stance.

You provide interesting information. Could you provide some of those sources you mention so I can read more ?
post #127 of 185
So Montauk, how about you start this thread over, without mentioning the RTW. Because Tom deserves a thread discussing what he does well and this one got sidetracked. And hopefully if there is to be any analysis of his pattern, it will only be by experienced bespoke pattern makers who know whereof they speak.

Apologies if I have been cranky lately. I'm a little stressed these days.
post #128 of 185
Whether Tom is or is not whatever he is, this coat is beautiful:

post #129 of 185
If somebody had taken a video then at least we could have heard what he said and what questions were asked. While seeing the video would have been nicer at least we would have had some of the words.

Some of what Mahon has written on his website I've heard abaout 50 years ago from another tailor. Mahon learned these from another tailor himself and didn't invent much. Merely knowledge passed down. What a tailor does with these thoughts can be different than other tailors with the same group of thougts. There are other group thoughts that other tailors use. If a tailor hears a better thought he might chuck one and add the new to his group of thoughts. Thoughts create aim for making. The more one has the better he might make. A tailor that is rather basic makes a boring garment.
post #130 of 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by greger View Post
If somebody had taken a video then at least we could have heard what he said and what questions were asked. While seeing the video would have been nicer at least we would have had some of the words.

I want a pony, too.

Quote:
Some of what Mahon has written on his website I've heard abaout 50 years ago from another tailor. Mahon learned these from another tailor himself and didn't invent much. Merely knowledge passed down.

Tom's never claimed to invent any of this stuff, and has been pretty gracious about giving others credit. In fact the reason for starting the blog in the first place was because he had many interesting stories about the Row and a tailor's life that his marketing friend thought it would be an interesting way to build up Tom's marketing.

I have to wonder why some people here find it easy to frame things a certain way. I can't believe people are just that cynical.

--Andre
post #131 of 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by greger View Post
Some of what Mahon has written on his website I've heard abaout 50 years ago from another tailor. Mahon learned these from another tailor himself and didn't invent much. Merely knowledge passed down. What a tailor does with these thoughts can be different than other tailors with the same group of thougts. There are other group thoughts that other tailors use. If a tailor hears a better thought he might chuck one and add the new to his group of thoughts. Thoughts create aim for making. The more one has the better he might make. A tailor that is rather basic makes a boring garment.

I don't drink enough to understand a lot of the posts in this forum.
post #132 of 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post
I want a pony, too.

I doubt it.

I am interested in what guides him in making garments. And yes he does tell us some in his stories. Story telling has been used for centuies for pasing on knowledge by slipping it in and the story helps us remember.
post #133 of 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post
I don't drink enough to understand a lot of the posts in this forum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by greger View Post
I am interested in what guides him in making garments. And yes he does tell us some in his stories. Story telling has been used for centuies for pasing on knowledge by slipping it in and the story helps us remember.

post #134 of 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
So Montauk, how about you start this thread over, without mentioning the RTW. Because Tom deserves a thread discussing what he does well and this one got sidetracked. And hopefully if there is to be any analysis of his pattern, it will only be by experienced bespoke pattern makers who know whereof they speak.

Apologies if I have been cranky lately. I'm a little stressed these days.

Yes, maybe a bit too cranky. I wouldn't begrudge you for taking issue with a comment made about your industry, but you played your part in pushing the discussion away from Tom's bespoke practice; it would have been easy enough to ascribe any apperent inaccuracy in his comments to misreporting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

What, you didn't get it?
post #135 of 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
What, you didn't get it?
I thought it was a great illustration of Ed's point, hence the drinky smiley seemed apt.
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