From same article WSJ 9/2/06 Officewear Economics What you get with the different options. We also asked two specialists-Leonard Logsdail, a New York custom tailor, and Salvatore Cesarani, a menswear designer who teaches at Parsons, The New School for Design-to assess the construction and quality. JOSEPH ABBOUD CLASSIC $750 WHAT YOU GET: Three-button suit made of soft "super 120s" wool -- which none of the other suits we looked at have. The jacket's armholes are finished with hand stitching, which can make them more durable. COMMENTS: "It's beautifully made -- that's why you pay," says Mr. Cesarani. But Mr. Logsdail says the details don't justify the cost.The company says the extra detail is what sets the suit apart, and its customers understand that. BOTTOM LINE: A suit with lots of extras that you might not want to pay for. BROOKS BROTHERS $598 (jacket and pants sold separately) WHAT YOU GET: The two-button jacket has an extra piece of fabric sewn inside the front to give it more shape. The jacket also has piping on the pockets and underarm sweat shields. COMMENTS: "There's not a thing that distinguishes this, apart from the Brooks Brothers label," says Mr. Logsdail, who adds that the fabric is OK and the construction adequate. "It's not worth $598." Company says the experts overlooked a number of elements, including the suit's durability. BOTTOM LINE: A basic suit for a premium price. CHAPS AT KOHL'S $275 (jacket and pants sold separately) WHAT YOU GET: The fit is classic and conservative. The jacket has a special pocket for theater tickets, and a double layer of fabric in the crotch so it won't wear out. The jacket is put together in China, the pants in India. COMMENTS: The jacket's chest piece is lightly fused, meaning it will move more naturally with the coat than one with more adhesive, says Mr. Cesarani. Mr. Logsdail likes the construction, but says the fabric feels limp and the pant zipper is sewn poorly and bubbles. BOTTOM LINE: A decent suit at a good price. STAFFORD AT J.C. PENNEY $300 WHAT YOU GET: This two-button conservative suit, made of 100% wool in Mexico, has darts on the inside of the chest to provide the wearer more room. The jacket also has underarm sweat shields. COMMENTS: Fabric feels softer and is higher quality than the Target or Kohl's offerings, our experts say. "Plus, they added some extras," says Mr. Cesarani. But Mr. Cesarani says the cotton lining in the pockets will start to pill after dry cleaning. BOTTOM LINE: Good fabric and value but don't expect friends to think it's a $600 suit. HART SCHAFFNER MARX $695 WHAT YOU GET: Three-button suit, whose jacket has lots of extras, including a ticket pocket and "pick stitching" that looks like hand- stitched edging. The pants have a change pocket and extra lining that expands to give you more freedom of movement. COMMENTS: "Just feel the luxury of this fabric. This suit will last you a long time," says Mr. Cesarani. Mr. Logsdail likes the "clean" look of the suit, but can't get his head around the price. "It's too much for what it is," he says. BOTTOM LINE: A well-made suit, a nice fabric -- and premium price. TARGET MERONA PREMIUM WOOL SUIT $139.98 (jacket and pants sold separately) WHAT YOU GET: Three-button jacket whose front pieces are attached with adhesive, rather than sewn in, which is how more expensive coats do it. The buttons are plastic. COMMENTS: The jacket lining is so tight that if the wool or the lining shrink in dry cleaning, the jacket could pull up at the bottom, says Mr. Cesarani. And the seams on the lining of the pants could unravel, he warns. The custom tailor, Mr. Logsdail, calls the fabric "not great, but not bad." BOTTOM LINE: Good value for the money but not a suit for the long haul.