Thom Browne: Not so bad after all...

Yes, there are kilts, but these weren't kilts. They were... well... men's skirts. Anyway, it was just a joke.

For a long time (and maybe they still do), Prada used Belvest to make their suits. They were fully canvassed and about $1700-$2000. Depending on the fabric, perhaps there is a model or two at US $3000, but I don't think that's the norm. I had one from 2000 (3 button) that was one of the nicest suits I've ever owned. I've heard they've switched suitmakers more recently, but in any case the standard Prada suit isn't as crappy as everybody might make it out to be. They'll sometimes have odd seasonal offerings, but the navy 3 button that they've made since 1998 or so has a very nice, flattering slim cut. No bootcuts, no low waist. That generally isn't a part of their aesthetic.

Gucci, too, I've never seen at $3000 unless it was using the MTM service. In general Gucci averages $1500-1800, with perhaps some a little over $2000 for a special fabric or something. And Gucci at the upper level (~$2000) is canvassed and made by Zegna.

John

Originally Posted by Jovan

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Men's skirts? Aren't those just kilts? Brands like Gucci and Prada put me off because they use fusing on $3000 suits and the fabrics don't look very good. I also can't say I like the cut, fit, or how all of them seem to be two button double vent jackets with low rise boot cut trousers.
Prada only recently switched to fused coats (they had previously used Belvest, I think, and switched manufacturers) and Gucci's coats, at least the ones I've seen and touched, are canvassed. ETA: Beaten to the punch.

I have never seen a "bootcut" prada, Prada style tends to the very slim, very tappered. As far as canvassing, last f/w season in store was still canvassed. I haven't seen current offering.

!luc

Prada markets a "difficult intellectual" style diluted.

Viktor & Rolf might be one of the few RTW makers who still manages a somewhat difficult aesthetic for mass-markets.

I remember when I first starting looking into suits about a year ago, I went to Bergdorf and one of the sales people recommended trying out Thom Browne. For a slim guy like me, the suits are very well fitting, provided that you get the right size. If I a lot of money to blow on clothes, I'm pretty sure I'd get one of his suits.

If I had tonnes of money to blow I'd probably get the bespoke (is it just MTM?). What puts me off however is that I hear they don't budge on the highwater pants... is this true for a fact? I like my trouser hem barely touching my shoe if I do a short hem, not halfway to my knees.

If you are paying that kind of money, they're going to do what you tell them. I seriously doubt that they'll refuse to hem your pants at a normal level. They may not recommend it, but I doubt they'll flat say no. I don't think there are that many Thom Browne fans in the world that they can simply start turning away people based on something as simple as that.

John

i have also been thinking about having a Thom Browne esq suit made also a spencer hart style as i like both for what they are! but but my own interpreation of them, i am not so keen on the high waist and 3/4 length pant but that can be amended quite easily apart from that i quite like his stuff (just nothing special in terms of style and fabric just quirky) it is just ott pricing wise!

3/4 length refers to an overcoat or (less commonly) suit jacket cut to just above the knees. I'm not familiar with Spencer Hart... can you describe its aesthetic?

Sorry to bring up the cone bra subject again, but I have to strongly disagree with Ivan Kipling reading back a page. There are few things in this world sexier, or simply more beautiful, than seeing the natural curves of a ************. Sure, the cone brassiere is attention grabbing, but what exactly is sexy about seeing something forced into a geometric shape?

Originally Posted by Jovan

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3/4 length refers to an overcoat or (less commonly) suit jacket cut to just above the knees. I'm not familiar with Spencer Hart... can you describe its aesthetic? Sorry to bring up the cone bra subject again, but I have to strongly disagree with Ivan Kipling reading back a page. There are few things in this world sexier, or simply more beautiful, than seeing the natural curves of a ************. Sure, the cone brassiere is attention grabbing, but what exactly is sexy about seeing something forced into a geometric shape?
Tastes differ of course. Some prefer the natural tendencies of the body while others are inclined towards the highly polished aesthetic of pointed bras, and heels. There's a certain intimidating factor as well. Sort of like the woman in black. Barbara Goalen

Distinctive, but I can't say I like how long the jackets are or how that black suit (black ) has white buttons. LabelKing: You and Ivan raise good points. However, I've said all I can. Simply put, I'd take any women closer to looking natural over anyone so incredibly dolled up and shaped and poked and pointed that they look like a vintage Barbie doll.

Originally Posted by edmorel

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. . . His suits are made in a factory in Queens that makes suits for other designers, for his prices I'd expect a little more exclusivity in the manufacturing process.
Is this really true, Ed (or anyone else)? A friend had been to the store recently and was assured that Browne "owned" the factory in Long Island City. I assumed that these were factory made suits contracted for by Browne and that the salesman was lying or misinformed, but I really don't know. Do you? What is the story on the quality of Browne's stuff, regardless of who makes it?

Yes it's true...I don't believe he's ever disclosed *who* is actually making the suits, other than it's some Italian tailoring company in NY IIRC. I originally thought it might be Martin Greenfield, but apparently it's not.

The quality is very good (full canvassed, gosgrain lining along the sleeves w/functional cuffs, very nice linings, good fabrics and full lined trousers). Is it $5000 good? Of course not.

I wonder if it's the same company that makes Duncan Quinn's suits? He advertises them like they are made in England, but I was talking with David from the NYC store when he was out in LA and he told me the suits were made in NYC