Tom James/English American Suit Critique

Here is my new suit from Elio at English-American in Westminster. It's my first MTM suit, and I think, aside from a few needed alterations, it turned out pretty well. On Friday, I'm headed back to Westminster on Friday to address the obvious sleeve pitch issue and to ask to take in the jacket around the waist.

Are there other issues I should address?










Also, I didn't remember to ask for surgeon cuffs, so they're non-functional, can I ask to have that changed?

The pants are good. But the jacket is a size too large. At least that's how it seems to me.

Originally Posted by acecow

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The pants are good. But the jacket is a size too large. At least that's how it seems to me.

I agree. The jacket should be smaller.

You may want the arms taken in a bit as well. They seem a bit wide compared to your actual arms -besides the pitch issue I had commented on in another thread.

The back looks a lot better than the sides and the front, which like you said, needs some waist supression.

Also, the jacket sleeves look slightly too long, and are one or both legs bowed? That should be hidden by the cut of the pants. As should be the probably related uneven shoulders, if that's not due to the photos.

There is something else, besides the suit. The neck area. The tie probably should be slightly wider and have a bigger knot. It would be better if the stripes were wider. And the shirt's collar might be better if slightly taller and probably (can't judge by the face) slightly more spread.

I'm no expert, but the jacket looks very long. It seems to be emphasized by the distance from the pockets down to the bottom. And I'm not a fan of the current fashion for absurdly short suits.

The trousers look slightly too long; the front seam should hang down straight to the shoe.

Originally Posted by Amiens

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The trousers look slightly too long; the front seam should hang down straight to the shoe.

No, the presence of a 'break' is a matter of taste. What you're describing is no break, which is fine, but there's nothing wrong with the trousers breaking on-top of the shoe as long as it's only slight.

There is also no 'seam' on the front of a pair of trousers. The seams are at the sides, the crease is at the front and back.

it is a bit 2 dimensional but good enough. that's what i expect from a good mtm.

Originally Posted by Maccimus

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it is a bit 2 dimensional but good enough. that's what i expect from a good mtm.

I agree. It fits pretty well, but it's not a particularly dramatic or impressive cut. I would also concur that the coat is too long. The back is really quite good -- they didn't compensate for your dropped shoulder by padding it, but it looks like they adjusted for it in making the back panels (if that's the correct term); otherwise, I think you'd see more material bunching up beneath that shoulder and especially around the armhole.

I'd like to see this after it is tweaked. I went to EA today for my first suit from them and the sample jacket Elio had me try on had very nice waist suppression and a close fit. I asked for the "Super J Press'', their softest shoulder, and Elio said he would compensate for my shoulder drop by taking some fabric from the back. He seems to really know how to do a clean back. He does seem to prefer a bit of break and a longer sleeve, but was fine with doing it the way I asked. The price seemed great for the product.
My wife went with me. I told Elio that I had heard really good things about him on the Internet. He replied "Oh, Ask Andy?" in his Italian accent. My wife, befuddled, said "Ass candy?" I explained AAAC to her and said no, Ass Candy was a completely different website. Laughter all around.
I'll post mine when I get it.

Originally Posted by KObalto

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I'd like to see this after it is tweaked. I went to EA today for my first suit from them and the sample jacket Elio had me try on had very nice waist suppression and a close fit. I asked for the "Super J Press'', their softest shoulder, and Elio said he would compensate for my shoulder drop by taking some fabric from the back. He seems to really know how to do a clean back. He does seem to prefer a bit of break and a longer sleeve, but was fine with doing it the way I asked. The price seemed great for the product.
My wife went with me. I told Elio that I had heard really good things about him on the Internet. He replied "Oh, Ask Andy?" in his Italian accent. My wife, befuddled, said "Ass candy?" I explained AAAC to her and said no, Ass Candy was a completely different website. Laughter all around.
I'll post mine when I get it.

Please do. Thanks.

Originally Posted by KObalto

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My wife went with me. I told Elio that I had heard really good things about him on the Internet. He replied "Oh, Ask Andy?" in his Italian accent. My wife, befuddled, said "Ass candy?" I explained AAAC to her and said no, Ass Candy was a completely different website. Laughter all around.
I'll post mine when I get it.

Great story

Originally Posted by KObalto

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I'll post mine when I get it.

any updates?

Bump