Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review

I just got my second pair of 1000 mile boots...the regular plane jane ones, no fancy embroidery. I loved my black ones so much I needed the brown. I found them for $200 on Amazon, (Amazon wasn't the actual seller). They were "blems" though I can't see why. There were a few scuffs in them, but I put worse on them the first day using them.

Question for you all, however. My black ones have almost worn through the bottom stitching that runs along the perimeter of the leather sole. Will the sole fall off when the stitching wears all the way through? I know it's probably a silly question, but I'm just not sure what is supposed to happen in the normal wear and tear of thing.

I walk hard, and a lot. I'm fine with having them resoled when need be (might try a mini-vibram on the blacks) but just want to get a sense of what to expect.

Thanks

Doug



tsekh said:

Special as in... special price and/or special color? The Courtland is supposed to be part of the regular line-up unless I was mistaken.

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No I was confused he was referring to the 744 LTD's.

Ended up buying the 1000 Mile Courtlands.

otc said:

You are using too much. Way too much.

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Yeah thanks. First time for me.

I used a lot for a nice thick bead along the welt, ala Crane style, but it didn't 100% melt in it was too thick.
Despite that, I didn't wipe off as much excess as you might think, the leather soaked up huge amounts, and I actually still got some light water seepage at the bottom...

But to be clear, do you think my conclusion of two double coats for a 4oz tub is way too much also?



burnso said:

Yeah thanks. First time for me.

I used a lot for a nice thick bead along the welt, ala Crane style, but it didn't 100% melt in it was too thick.
Despite that, I didn't wipe off as much excess as you might think, the leather soaked up huge amounts, and I actually still got some light water seepage at the bottom... 

But to be clear, do you think my conclusion of two double coats for a 4oz tub is way too much also?

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You gotta work in a warmer environment/warm up the boot somehow. Some people are scared of the oven method but I have never had a problem putting the oven on "warm"/absolute minimum setting (you should still be able to put your bare hand on the rack) and putting the boots in for a couple of minutes. Then just switch between working on one boot and warming the other.

I did two coats on some Katahdin's last week and barely made a dent in the 8oz tub--I think there is still a fair amount of factory flat surface on top of the stuff. The boots had been sno-sealed before but probably a year and a half ago and it was pretty much gone (and I didn't use that much sno-seal either). The first time application will really soak in, but using 2oz of the stuff on one pair of boots is pretty crazy.

otc said:

<snip>Some people are scared of the oven method but I have never had a problem putting the oven</snip>

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I ovened mine for ~10 min @175 F (lowest my oven would go); it even says to on the SnoSeal instructions!

Hello all! Any suggestions on how to pick the right size for 1000 mile boots? I've heard all sorts from true-to-size, to 1/2 size down, to even full size down. I'm sure this topic is in this thread somewhere, but seems too difficult to search through all 1700 posts. Just wanted to see what the most consistent answer is. Input is much appreciated! Thanks!

1/2 size down or use your Alden-Barrie size.

TTS is for true hikers with thick wool socks.

I went 1-full size down from Nike's.

1-full size may work, too, so I'd suggest going to Nordstroms to trial fit if available in your area.



otc said:

Some people are scared of the oven method but I have never had a problem putting the oven on "warm"/absolute minimum setting (you should still be able to put your bare hand on the rack) and putting the boots in for a couple of minutes.

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Oven itself does no harm, it's the temperature you set that matter. Putting your boots into an oven that is not turned on does nothing. Setting the temperature as high as you do when baking a chicken will kill your boots. Setting the temperature to something like a very hot summer day will probably work very nice.



tsekh said:

Oven itself does no harm, it's the temperature you set that matter. Putting your boots into an oven that is not turned on does nothing. Setting the temperature as high as you do when baking a chicken will kill your boots. Setting the temperature to something like a very hot summer day will probably work very nice.

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The key is that you do NOT want to do something like this to dry out wet boots. You are fine to do it for these purposes since you are *immediately* applying conditioner back into the leather.

If you aren't going to be moisturizing the boots, you should keep them the eff away from hot, arid environments.



gardenbuffet said:

Hello all!  Any suggestions on how to pick the right size for 1000 mile boots?  I've heard all sorts from true-to-size, to 1/2 size down, to even full size down.  I'm sure this topic is in this thread somewhere, but seems too difficult to search through all 1700 posts.  Just wanted to see what the most consistent answer is.  Input is much appreciated!  Thanks!

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I agree with going a whole size down from whatever you wear in Nike or other sneakers.

maye what did they use to SHINE your boots??? look awesome

I've Got a question for Crane.

I posted on here a while ago, and ended up finally receiving my Tan Addisons. The are my first ever pair of boots like this. In fact, my first ever pair of quality leather boots. They are amazing.

On to my question, When I got them I used a little lexol conditioner on them and have been wearing them religiously.

1) What type of brush should I get to shine them?
2) Will Obenauf's severely darken them permanently? Will Snow seal? How did you treat your tan Addisons for water?
3) What Boot Oil should I use? Is lexol Okay? I don't mind buying another.
4) What cleaner should I use? Is lexol Okay?
5) How did you Keep the toe part of the leather sole from getting so scuffed?

Not Crane's, but based on my experience, yrmv:

1) Brushing won't do much for a shine; Chromexcel is pretty oil impregnated and doesn't spiff up much. I was able to get some shine with Kiwi. For your tan, I would use neutral.
2) Sno-seal darkens only slightly, but they will lighten up over time due to the "pull-up" nature of the leather/tanning. Important parts to apply treatment are the welt and seams.
3) Not necessary. Lexol would be fine.
4) Brush and water.
5) ...

MarioImpemba said:

Not Crane's, but based on my experience, yrmv:

1) Brushing won't do much for a shine; Chromexcel is pretty oil impregnated and doesn't spiff up much. I was able to get some shine with Kiwi. For your tan, I would use neutral.
2) Sno-seal darkens only slightly, but they will lighten up over time due to the "pull-up" nature of the leather/tanning. Important parts to apply treatment are the welt and seams.
3) Not necessary. Lexol would be fine.
4) Brush and water.
5) ...

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I didn't really mean a brush to shine. Rather just a buffing brush. Like a shine brush. Is there a prefered brand or is kiwi fine?

Oh, Also, If I have worn the boots and the sole shows some wear, is it too late to add a vibram half sole?