Custom Sport Jacket - Mr. Ned or Flusser???

MORNINGSTAR777 · May 30, 2009

So, I'm finally ready to take the plunge into custom clothing. My first piece that I'm looking to have made is a sport jacket/coat (Mafoo's sport jacket heavy wardrobe has been an inspiration). Being that I'm located in NYC I figured my best option would either be Flusser or Mr. Ned. Basically, I'm wondering what the forums suggestion would be on the matter (possibly even suggesting another tailor).

Mark Seitelman · May 30, 2009

Mr. Ned will be much less expensive. Probably around $700 for a sportscoat depending upon the cloth.

Flusser will run around $1,500 for MTM (made by Southwick) and $2,500 for a custom line coat.

I can recommend Flusser. I haven't used Ned.

My personal favorite is Oxxford. It's having its summer sale now, and you may be able to pick-up a nice RTW or a well priced end bolt.

Good luck!

jcc123 · May 30, 2009

I would call Vahram at Mr. Ned. He will make what you want so long as it's American. He charges $650 for a sports jacket which is a great value. I'm having two done as we speak.

MORNINGSTAR777 · May 31, 2009

Well, I want something with a natural shoulder, slim (Polo Blue Label slim) with patch pockets, double vents in a three seasons weight fabric. Does that sounds like something with Mr. Ned's/Vahram's capabilities? Also, I assume both Flusser and Mr. Ned both do full floating canvas construction, correct?

TheFoo · May 31, 2009

Mr. Ned and Flusser cover a gigantic spread in price, no? There are a whole bunch of other New York City tailors you might want to consider. Forum favorite Raphael seems to consistently cut a nice suit. And he's a nice guy, to boot.

MORNINGSTAR777 · May 31, 2009

I wasn't sure what Flusser's price would be. How much do you think a sport coat by Raphael would run?

jcc123 · May 31, 2009

Originally Posted by MORNINGSTAR777

Well, I want something with a natural shoulder, slim (Polo Blue Label slim) with patch pockets, double vents in a three seasons weight fabric. Does that sounds like something with Mr. Ned's/Vahram's capabilities? Also, I assume both Flusser and Mr. Ned both do full floating canvas construction, correct?

Yes, to all your questions. I would try Mr. Ned first. You'll get good results. Try to use the son, Vahram when doing the work as he's more flexible. Also, pick a time that he's less busy, usually during the weekdays to visit them. Then take your time to explain everything you want. I would also add that don't expect perfect result within the first try. You might need to commission one or two before it's perfectly what you want.

MORNINGSTAR777 · May 31, 2009

Originally Posted by jcc123

Yes, to all your questions. I would try Mr. Ned first. You'll get good results. Try to use the son, Vahram when doing the work as he's more flexible. Also, pick a time that he's less busy, usually during the weekdays to visit them. Then take your time to explain everything you want. I would also add that don't expect perfect result within the first try. You might need to commission one or two before it's perfectly what you want.

Thanks, I'm sure my first outing will probably be better than searching for a RTW that is good enough. I think for my budget Mr. Ned is the best value especially if considering that I'd like to do future work/will need to do more work with them in order to get things.

jcc123 · May 31, 2009

^^^^^

The other thing I would like to add is that you should be patient with them as sometimes they take longer to get the job done. If you want a rush job you should go elsewhere. But I think you will be pleased with the results.

Give me a few minutes and I'll try to post a few shots of the first two suits I had done. They were commissioned about the same time and so look the same. I've since made adjustments to my subsequent commissions and will have them in about two weeks.

jcc123 · May 31, 2009

OK, here's my blue suit. It's 180 TC and it still costs only $850! I have a charcoal one that I didn't get the time to photograph. But it basically looks the same with just a different fabric. Sorry about the bad focus...

sfo423 · May 31, 2009

sleeves are off and that's a mighty high gorge for a 2B. not sure if its how you are wearing them, but the pants have a lot of break (personally I don't like a lot)

falsestart · May 31, 2009

I think if you are going to work with mr ned, really try and work with the son varham. His dad is nice but has strong ideas about how things should fit. They are pretty committed to a padded shoulder and you might not get the soft natural shoulder that you want. I would say that for what you get it is a very good value however you will need to be very vigilant with them regarding exactly what you want.

jcc123 · May 31, 2009

I noticed that my watch was was holding my shirt sleeve after the photo was taken. Trust me, both sleeves are the same. The gorge looks too high because of the angel of the camera. It's actually still a bit low for my taste when you see it in person.

As for the break it looks fine when I move. Sometimes when you're standing still it looks like it's too much. I don't like it so short so that when I move my socks starts showing. However, I've asked for a slightly smaller break on my next suit.

jcc123 · May 31, 2009

Originally Posted by falsestart

I think if you are going to work with mr ned, really try and work with the son varham. His dad is nice but has strong ideas about how things should fit. They are pretty committed to a padded shoulder and you might not get the soft natural shoulder that you want. I would say that for what you get it is a very good value however you will need to be very vigilant with them regarding exactly what you want.
+1, My next commissions have practically no shoulder pads. I think the reason they're so stuck on their ways is probably from their experience of dealing with customers that initially sound like they know what they want but end up hating the way they look afterwards because they see it work on someone else. You have to be careful when dealing with clients. For the majority of their clients I think they like larger shoulder pads because it makes them look stronger. Those first two suits I had done have larger pads than I want. You can see it in my photo above. On my subsequent work Vahram did exactly what I asked for because he now knows that I know what will work on me and won't lead him down the wrong path to later blame him for it.

taxgenius · May 31, 2009

I think that pic is pretty good.

Custom Sport Jacket - Mr. Ned or Flusser???

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