Best untanned belts

no i understand thats how it is, i basically answered my own question so nm...

i think mike had really good advice above. i would follow his suggestions.

personally, i prefer the stitching like in my ks, but i can see how some belts need something a little stronger and therefore use thick ass mean screws, like the samurai belts.

When it comes to stitches, some do it right and some do it wrong. All belts a la sugarcane belt style are wrong.

Originally Posted by entrero

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When it comes to stitches, some do it right and some do it wrong. All belts a la sugarcane belt style are wrong.
yeah man that makes no sense. can you provide an example of what is right and wrong? im not giving you a hard time im just trying to figure out what your talking about. is it because sugarcane uses horizontal stitching and does not go all the way around?

right way:





wrong way:

interesting. i dont have a sugarcane belt and therefore cannot say the way they stitch the belt is wrong, but i see what your saying now.

i do love the buckle in the last picture though...

Originally Posted by entrero

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When it comes to stitches, some do it right and some do it wrong. All belts a la sugarcane belt style are wrong.

Why is one way right and the other way wrong? Not trying to be snide here, just want to know the advantages and disadvantages of different stitching styles on belts.

If stitched vertically some strength is sacrificed, like the pre-punched "tear here" packages. The extra thick leather compensates this and belts are not usually subjected to high tension so it's probably nitpicking on my part. Heck they're expensive, so why not do it right?

Originally Posted by entrero

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If stitched vertically some strength is sacrificed, like the pre-punched "tear here" packages. The extra thick leather compensates this and belts are not usually subjected to high tension so it's probably nitpicking on my part. Heck they're expensive, so why not do it right?

Good to know. All of my stitched belts are stitched the wrong way then. If any of them break, I'll go out of my way to find some that are stitched the right way in the future.

Hey, isn't the second picture my Terry's belt

The design in the first pic is a very good one too - used by some of the most experienced belt makers in Japan and Taiwan. My faith x Ken type II industrial belt has the same stitching, done with uber thick threads and then subsequently reinforced with punch-through, break-off copper riveting:



Or, a design like the one on my custom Unlucky's will last forever too:

those are great.

yeah, im not convinced the way sugarcane stitched their belts is "wrong." in fact, given the company i would indeed argue they are doing it "RIGHT." but maybe thats just me. but its good to see other companies using similar types of stitching.

Originally Posted by commodorewheeler

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Good to know. All of my stitched belts are stitched the wrong way then. If any of them break, I'll go out of my way to find some that are stitched the right way in the future.
i suspect they are not stitched the "wrong" way, and i totally get you were being sarcastic in this post! i thought that guy (entrero) had all of those belts and was therefore providing us some level of empirical knowledge. but it looks like he was just posting pictures of other belts and making a statement... that kmw belt is one i have always wanted, but was always turned off by the price. after seeing some of mikes belts and reading some of his posts i agree with him that many of us are better off buying directly from the people who makes these belts, viz., terry dear, scott (unlucky), etc.

unlucky seems to sit very close and doesnt have the problems that the tanner belt does with being very large.

^ Just spend some time looking at various buckle fold designs from different belt makers, you'll find something to suit your needs - I think hand-stitching or leather cross-lace locking will be perfect for you if you don't want the fold to be too thick.

Originally Posted by whatever123

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that kmw belt is one i have always wanted, but was always turned off by the price. after seeing some of mikes belts and reading some of his posts i agree with him that many of us are better off buying directly from the people who makes these belts, viz., terry dear, scott (unlucky), etc.

Totally mate...buying from these guys not only nets you a great product at a great price, but also invaluable knowledge through conversing with them.

Not that there's anything wrong with Sugar Cane belts, Pherrow's belts, or whatever......but I reckon anyone into the denim/natural leather hobby should give 'custom-made' a go at least once - it's not for everybody, and much more work on the buyers behalf, but at least for me the results are worth it

Some of the dudes who make belts for the various Japanese brands also run their own little operations and do house-brands for various denim shops - these are worth tracking down too