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The importance of a good tailor

Lear

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Well, I'm going to try and be mature about this. Just a word of warning to anybody having alterations to an expensive bit of clothing.

I used a Style Forum recommended tailor in London to:

a.) Lengthen the sleeves on my £1000+ suit
b.) Take up some shirt sleeves that were swamping my hands on a £140 shirt.

The first time I bought the suit (it's a beautiful item), the shop let the sleeves down by using some iron on glue stuff. They also failed to let the inside lining down. The company headquarters were truly superb about it though, and a replacement jacket was shipped over from Italy. I swore that I wouldn't touch the cuffs again, until I found a recommended tailor.

So, last week I went to this new tailor in London. He barely had the time to talk to me though. When I suggested that it would be better to put the shirt on, he seemed to be not that concerned. I put this down to his eagle eye and years of experience. Then, without taking a step backwards, two swift chalk marks were made on the suit sleeves. Later, I pointed out that he'd pinned the shirt sleeves so high that there was no way I'd be showing cuff. His reply, was that he'd take the shirt measurement from the suit cuff itself.

When I came to pick it up: the shirt sleeves were too short for it ever to be worn as double cuff. I politely stated that I would NOT be paying for his ruining it. Yet he seemed put out by this . First he claimed that it was OK, until it was obvious that it he'd chopped too much fabric. Then he claimed that in 40 years of tailoring, he'd NEVER ruined a shirt. Lastly, he said that he could turn the shirt into a single cuff type. He seemed genuinely perplexed that I wouldn't settle for this option.

The jacket was no better. The top cuff button hadn't been moved to the sleeve edge. He said that on fine suit material, he couldn't risk doing such a thing. This hadn't been mentioned at the initial meeting. However, the biggest disappointment was his use of the 'fold-it-over-and-glue-it' strip of material, to fasten the cuff edges. I only discovered this later that night.

But enough negativity. As of today, I've found myself a tailor, known for producing quality bespoke suits. I arranged an appointment, and a fair amount of time was spent carefully explaining, what could and couldn't be done. The sleeves will be properly sorted out, and working buttonholes added. The buttons will also be replaced with higher quality ones. Unfortunately, he wasn't willing to remove the sticky fabric stuff , but did point out that they only ever sew the ends of their sleeves.

I know that my jacket is now in the right hands. I walked out feeling much happier about everything. If all goes well, I'd be happy to show pics and praise the firm.

I realize that some would suggest legal action. However:

* I have a scrappy piece of paper as a receipt. Even I can't read what it says.
* There is no evidence of what the suit or shirt looked like before.
* Many alteration tailors do glue suit sleeves.
* Just not worth the hassle, if only for the shirt.

Lear
 

instep

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I say: name and shame.
 

Journeyman

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Originally Posted by Lear
* Many alteration tailors do glue suit sleeves.

I've never, ever heard of that before - it's quite shocking.
Thankfully, my tailor happily hand-stitches the lining to the outer material when he alters my suits, as he takes great pride in his work. Even better, he's only middle-aged so hopefully he'll be around for a long time yet.

Your very, very unfortunate experience just hammers home to me that a good tailor is like a trustworthy car mechanic - once you've found one, follow them everywhere!
 

Lear

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I left the Soho premises in a foul mood. Headed straight down to Harvey & Hudson to replace my Emma Willis shirt, as I wasn't willing to wait for another to be made. I picked out my known H& H shirt size and pushed off home. As I left the station I wondered what else could have gone wrong. At that exact moment, the metal hook on my hanger snapped off, and the suit fell to the mucky, damp floor. Luckily no damage was done. Upon returning home, I discovered that the H & H collar was so large, I could fit four fingers down the neck gap. Returning to the store the next day, they explained that the wrong sized collar had been attached to the shirt. Still waiting for a replacement. I'm now too scared to leave the house
bounce2.gif
Lear
 

madaboutshirt

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Originally Posted by Lear
I picked out my known H& H shirt size and pushed off home. As I left the station I wondered what else could have gone wrong. At that exact moment, the metal hook on my hanger snapped off, and the suit fell to the mucky, damp floor. Luckily no damage was done.

Upon returning home, I discovered that the H & H collar was so large, I could fit four fingers down the neck gap. Returning to the store the next day, they explained that the wrong sized collar had been attached to the shirt. Still waiting for a replacement.


I guess it just wasn't your day. I normally check my daily horoscope before I go out.
 

Lear

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Originally Posted by madaboutshirt
I guess it just wasn't your day. I normally check my daily horoscope before I go out.
And now for the bit that every SF member would love to hear after their shirt has been ruined: Lear: Dammit , that was a £140 Emma Willis shirt you've just ruined. The lady seated at the sewing table turns around, with needle and fabric in hand. She starts to giggle as she says... Lady: You paid £140 for a shirt! I must confess, I was rather lost for words. Either she's right, or I've been totally corrupted by SF
laugh.gif
 

FashionFanatic

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Originally Posted by Journeyman
I've never, ever heard of that before - it's quite shocking.
Thankfully, my tailor happily hand-stitches the lining to the outer material when he alters my suits, as he takes great pride in his work. Even better, he's only middle-aged so hopefully he'll be around for a long time yet.

Your very, very unfortunate experience just hammers home to me that a good London tailor is like a trustworthy car mechanic - once you've found one, follow them everywhere!



I completely agree with you. Like a personal barber, a tailor have to be trustworthy. Luckily, i already have a good one.
 

mfadam

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I was wondering if anyone knows about the use of glue in sleeve alterations? I have a wool suit where the sleeves were lengthened and it feels like the area around the wrist has a stiffness (not natural feeling, almost like a starched shirt) that I can only assume is glue of some sort. My question is can this be undone or are you stuck with it? Thanks for any thoughts...
 

mfadam

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no, not thomas tailor. My wife says they fused parts of the sleeve. Now I know why people complain so much about fused suits. What I'm still not sure about is can this be undone or are you stuck with it once something is fused? Anyone??
 

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