It's time...a phase one critique of my RLBL suit please

[ramuman]

So I just got my 38R RLBL suit back from the store after fairly minor alterations to start off. I had the back/waist taken in a bit, the pants hemmed, and the seat taken in. I apologize for a few technical issues as my roommate took these pics in one go around. First, my right sleeve on the suit is a bit short (because my right arm is about 1/4" longer). This is compounded by the fact that my french cuff shirt sleeve is stuck somewhere in the suit sleeve. Second, the suit is a solid dark charcoal...crappy camera didn't capture that and makes it look like a shinny D&G piece. The shots were also taken from head height which makes me look like I have short legs. I'm leggy if anything. Third, the suit wasn't ironed or hung up after taking it out of the bag...thus the tail by the vents is scrunched up. The tailor and I noticed two things which will be corrected. First the upper back by the collar has some rolls and this he said can be rectified. Second, the right sleeve pitch/length. A third thing that I didn't notice at the store is a bit of scrunching near the bottom of the front dart one the right side (looking at the photo) in the second picture. Any and all comments welcome.

 

[lee_44106]

looks actually pretty good.

Are you sure the tailor wanted to mess around the sleeve pitch? that would involve resewing the entire sleeve at the shoulder, which is a major undertaking.

 

[ramuman]

Originally Posted by lee_44106

looks actually pretty good. Are you sure the tailor wanted to mess around the sleeve pitch? that would involve resewing the entire sleeve at the shoulder, which is a major undertaking.
What he did was measure from my thumb knuckle to sleeve end on both arms and he wanted to let out a bit of the sleeve on my right arm. I'm not sure if that's what the term pitch is

They actually measured the sleeves the first go around but I guess the correction didn't take. It looks better when my cuff is out, it's off by about 1/4" an inch...about what the length in my arms are different by. My only real concern are the rolls on the upper back, but he seemed confident that could be corrected.

 

[forex]

This needs to be foofed,paging foofer.

 

[ramuman]

Originally Posted by forex

This needs to be foofed,paging foofer.
Uh-oh I hope the RL tailor charges less for those alterations than foof's photoshop rates

. Things I am happy about are how the shoulders fit, how the lapel lays flat, and how the contour of the back (if not the rolls in the upper back) turned out.

 

[forex]

Originally Posted by ramuman

Uh-oh I hope the RL tailor charges less for those alterations than foof's photoshop rates

. Things I am happy about are how the shoulders fit, how the lapel lays flat, and how the contour of the back (if not the rolls in the upper back) turned out.

There is something wrong with the pants,in the crotch area,also go for no break,make it clean.
As for jacket,back seems to have too much waist supressed, can you really move? Sleeves don't look right from back,I guess they are too skinny and some other problem,but you probably won't be able to fix that.
I don't see that RLBL syndrome though,chest seems to fit ok,so I guess that's good.

 

[lee_44106]

Originally Posted by ramuman

What he did was measure from my thumb knuckle to sleeve end on both arms and he wanted to let out a bit of the sleeve on my right arm. I'm not sure if that's what the term pitch is

They actually measured the sleeves the first go around but I guess the correction didn't take. It looks better when my cuff is out, it's off by about 1/4" an inch...about what the length in my arms are different by.

My only real concern are the rolls on the upper back, but he seemed confident that could be corrected.

The sleeve pitch is the angle between your arm as a whole and your torso/body. Notice on the side profile shot that there is a bit of bunching up of the right (your right) sleeve? This shows that the sleeve pitch is incorrect. It's a natural problem with RTW suits because each person has a "natural" angle with which he hangs his arms, and therefore one suit cannot fit everybody. but it's not a big deal as most people do not notice.

Someone else mention that the waist suppression may be too much. It certainly looks that way from the back. Can you move freely?

 

[ramuman]

Originally Posted by lee_44106

The sleeve pitch is the angle between your arm as a whole and your torso/body. Notice on the side profile shot that there is a bit of bunching up of the right (your right) sleeve? This shows that the sleeve pitch is incorrect. It's a natural problem with RTW suits because each person has a "natural" angle with which he hangs his arms, and therefore one suit cannot fit everybody. but it's not a big deal as most people do not notice. Someone else mention that the waist suppression may be too much. It certainly looks that way from the back. Can you move freely?
If you saw me shirtless, you'd be surprised. I have a very slim stomach and waist. I would even say this doesn't track my natural profile, but anything more might just look bad. If I let it out, I don't know if the drape would seem better, but it would be farther from my natural profile. I also have pretty wide shoulders. Thoughts considering that? Also regarding pitch you're right. The first pic looks ok, while the third does not. I don't know which one is my natural angle though.

 

[clee1982]

Originally Posted by lee_44106

The sleeve pitch is the angle between your arm as a whole and your torso/body. Notice on the side profile shot that there is a bit of bunching up of the right (your right) sleeve? This shows that the sleeve pitch is incorrect. It's a natural problem with RTW suits because each person has a "natural" angle with which he hangs his arms, and therefore one suit cannot fit everybody. but it's not a big deal as most people do not notice.

Someone else mention that the waist suppression may be too much. It certainly looks that way from the back. Can you move freely?

Waist suppression looks all right to me, I don't see any pulling, that is about as much waist suppression as my RLBL has.

 

[GucciKid]

I would let the waist out a bit. You can see from the back that it has been taken in a bit too much IMO.

My first thought from the front was that the fit looks quite good, but that you are too tall and skinny for the RLBL cut. However I think that you will be very happy with the final result if you let the waist out a bit more.

 

[clee1982]

Originally Posted by clee1982

Waist suppression looks all right to me, I don't see any pulling, that is about as much waist suppression as my RLBL has.

edit: actually, on 2nd though, looking from the back, it does seem to be quite siginificant of waist suppression, but that could be due to camera angle.

 

[Master-Classter]

might be a bit tight across the top of the shoulder line in the middle - see the pulling?
It fits slim, but it looks like the back might have been taken in too much / incorrectly as it's pulling funny...

Still, it's a 9-9.5/10, so relatively minor complaints.

 

[ramuman]

Quick comments after trying it on again:

The crotch area appears to fit funny because there appears to be some excess material in the inner thigh. The tailoring itself is symmetric on the inside though.

The waist suppression appears to be the main issue. I had it suppressed beyond what it is OTR. It now fits my actual stomach/waist body better sizing wise, but I don't know if letting it out again would allow it to drape better (and eliminate the rolls in the mid/lower back)

Also, the upper shoulders/collar area on the back need to be resolved. I hope those two rolls can be eliminated.

It seems letting out the back a little bit would fix the fit on both the upper and lower back.

Regarding sleeve pitch, I think I tend to stand closer the first picture than the third, so hopefully that's non-issue.

Thanks again for all the comments. It's a pretty expensive suit and I want it to fit like one.

 

[SlamMan]

I just picked up the same suit! Unfortunately it probably looks better on you than me. Jerk.

I'll echo what's pretty much been said already. It looks tight across the back. I'm no tailor but I'd guess letting out the back would help with the puckering around the lower ribs. The rolls on the upper back make it look like it's too tight. Does it feel tight across your upper back? It looks like the half back could be let out a bit to solve that.

The first thing I noticed though was the hem on the pants. It's too long and makes it look sloppy. I'd definitely go for minimal to no break with cuffs.

 

[ramuman]

Originally Posted by SlamMan

I just picked up the same suit! Unfortunately it probably looks better on you than me. Jerk.

I'll echo what's pretty much been said already. It looks tight across the back. I'm no tailor but I'd guess letting out the back would help with the puckering around the lower ribs. The rolls on the upper back make it look like it's too tight. Does it feel tight across your upper back? It looks like the half back could be let out a bit to solve that.

The first thing I noticed though was the hem on the pants. It's too long and makes it look sloppy. I'd definitely go for minimal to no break with cuffs.

Are you in Atlanta by chance? In any case, I agree with your comments (and the general consensus). I think maybe .5-1" let out over the back might do the trick. I agree with the pant break - a bit too much, especially with a suit and shoe that are that slender. There's also a bit of a problem with the tail that causes it to pucker up.

While I may not look perfect for the first use of the suit this weekend, I will hopefully have it nailed down the week after.

When I brought it home, my initial thought was I'm 95% there. The newly noticed waist suppression makes it a 90% in my book, but it certainly looks like all these are fairly easily fixable problems and the tailor was quite nice at the RL store.

I'll probably do a phase 2 update in a couple of weeks. I still can't believe I'm wearing almost 2k worth of stuff in that picture. Curse this forum!