Fitting advice: Proper Cloth / Alton Lane / Q Clothier / Suitsupply

[Sfroide3]

Hi guys,

I am looking for fitting advices on my quest for a nice shirt/suit. At 32 now, I want to upgrade my wardrobe. In the last few years I lost about 50lbs. I slowly upgraded my wardrobe starting with shoes while I was still loosing weight. My weight now is not going to change a lot anymore and I can start building my wardrobe again. I already have a lot of chinos and casual shirts. I am now in a quest for a nice fitting shirt. I decided to go to Proper Cloth (I had the fitting done in the NYC showroom while on holiday), Alton Lane (Fitting done in store), Suitsupply (off the rack and altered) and Q Clothier (fitting done in store but not received yet. I will update the post when I receive the shirt).

I also bought a new suit because all my older suits were just way too big now. I am looking for advices on the overall fit and on what alterations /measurement update would be good to do. I added one picture of each item and a link to matching galleries under it.

Proper Cloth shirt:
Fitting was done in store but sleeves are way too short. The sales associate was definitely a new employee. He confused split yoke and back center pleat. The collar was ordered in 15 1/2 (shirt washed and ironed) and measurement is 16 which is absolutely fine. The alton lane 15 3/4 is too tight (got a second shirt coming in 16). Can I expect all the 15 1/2 to measure 16 with Proper Cloth or is it a factory mistake ? Is there anyway to reduce the batman wings ? (the Alton Lane Shirt has the same fabric on the front arm pit to pit but way less in the back). There is a lot of fabric twisting on the arms, is it fine ? We clearly see two unofficial pleats close to the arm holes. Big deal ?

Proper Cloth Gallery

Alton lane shirt:
Overall, the fit is better. A little bit snugger under the arms. Same twisting on the arms. Is there anything you would do to that shirt ? Same little unofficial pleats.

Alton Lane Gallery


Suitsupply suit:
Suit was altered in store. What I see now that I got pictures of my back is again two "unofficial pleats" or fold in the fabric close to the arms. Overall I think the fit is not bad at all. When the sleeves are really falling straight there is very little of the shirt left to be seen. I had a different, same fit and size, sports jacket from Suitsupply shorten by 1/4 inch. Shoud I do the same here ?

Suitsupply Suit Gallery

Suitsupply shirt will probably go to ebay or even goodwill. It's a 15 1/2 with the button adjustement as much as possible to a 15 3/4 that is still too snug. The shirt makes batman wings even though it was taken it. Given the fact that the collar doesn't fit well, I decided to stop trying to alter it as it was never going to fit good. I will probably put the button back at the original place and get rif of the shirt.

I will update this post when I get my hands on the Q Clothier shirt. Any other advices ? I added a strip navy flannel vest to the suit. I think it goes well with the general outfit. What do you guys think ?

Thanks for reading this. Sorry for my English, I am not native.